Xantia clutch cable clip
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia clutch cable clip
The dreaded clip has broke on the clutch cable and i've been checking the forum for advice.
I was going to pull the pushrod from the rear of brake peddle so that the peddle will drop down giving clearance for the bolt,but i cant see how this comes of and dont want to force it incase it break's as its only plastic,if it does break can it be replaced easily as there is no mention of this in the haynes manual and i dont fancy taking the dash out to replace the peddle.
thanks for any advice.
I was going to pull the pushrod from the rear of brake peddle so that the peddle will drop down giving clearance for the bolt,but i cant see how this comes of and dont want to force it incase it break's as its only plastic,if it does break can it be replaced easily as there is no mention of this in the haynes manual and i dont fancy taking the dash out to replace the peddle.
thanks for any advice.
I removed (or semi removed, cant remember now) the brake pedal to allow some room. It was a bit awkward getting the bolt out, but it is possible. I taped the clip to a modified wiper arm and used this as a tool to push it back on. It looks impossible at first but it can be done. Horrible job, and I got dizzy being upsidedown for so long. If I had to do it again now, I'm sure I could do it quite quickly.
For some reason best known to the Gallic fraternity, the bolt is inserted the wrong way which involves using a hacksaw to saw it out! I suppose that the pedal assembly is pre assembled which would suit LHD but not over here!! Once sawn off and a new bolt replaced the (for us) correct way round then the job is not too bad - and certainly easier next time round! No need to remove the dash and the improved flow of blood to the brain whilst doing it is good for the soul - not to mention the pocket[:D]
I used the "heavy" approach and bent the bracket side until I had enough clearance to ease the bolt out.
Watch out for the spring which fits over the bolt - it will go back either way round, but only one way is correct - study carefully before you remove it - I'm not looking forward to doing this job again in order to reverse the spring!!
Watch out for the spring which fits over the bolt - it will go back either way round, but only one way is correct - study carefully before you remove it - I'm not looking forward to doing this job again in order to reverse the spring!!
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Wiggle it and pull on it Baldrick, they are tight in but do come out, the last one I did had a manualy adjusted cable and was same year as my own car, had the brake pedal flat to the floor on this one and still the bolt wouldn't come out, was a bit miffed at this as I had to saw the bugger off.
Dave
Dave
Jobs a good-un,
For any one interested this is how I replaced the clutch cable clip.
Removed front seat and bottom of dashboard for easier access, unclip any wires around the brake pedal area and up near the access hole (near to the bolt that holds the clutch pedal) and push them out of way to give better access, <font color="red">13mm spanner </font id="red">unscrew the nut and cut the head off the bolt with an <font color="red">hacksaw</font id="red"> (wedge something against the clutch pedal to stop the bolt from turning or use <font color="red">mole grips </font id="red">while sawing its head off), withdraw the bolt taking note of how the peddle return spring and nylon bush is attached and lower peddle down, remove the old clutch clip and replace with new one.
TIP: grease the metal bush to stop it falling out and replace return spring and nylon bush, put a piece of masking tape over the side of the spring and bush to hold it all together.
Under the bonnet (you can get better access if you remove the air filter housing which just pulls of but the bracket underneath is fastened with 3 <font color="red">10mm </font id="red">bolts) disconnect the clutch cable from the gearbox housing leaving the nuts in place and push the inner cable back into the outer cable and find some way to wedge it against gearbox housing so that inner cable cant come back out.
Back in the car get the old bolt that you sawed the end off and reuse it (if you’ve not got a new one) and screw the type of nut that has a washer attached back along the full length of the bolt, (the nut cant come of because there aren’t any threads at the end where you sawed the head off)hammer the end over taking care not to damage threads, now get a length of <font color="red">welding wire </font id="red">about 12” long and make a small hook at one end, raise the peddle back up into position and with the welding wire you can guide the clutch cable back into the clip till you hear it click into place.
Under the bonnet unwedge the clutch cable so when you push the clutch pedal the inner cable will retract.
Back in the car align the clutch pedal and push the bolt back in from the side away from brake pedal, making it easier for next time.
There is no need to remove the <font color="red">masking tape </font id="red">as the bolt will push straight through it, now replace the nut and tighten up.
Refit the clutch cable under bonnet and adjust to correct settings listed in the <font color="red">Haynes manual </font id="red">and replace every thing else that you removed and jobs a good-un.
I didn’t want to remove the plastic pushrod from the brake peddle for fear of breaking it, but a replacement can be purchased for less than a fiver, but not a clue as to how its fastened.
It took me between 4 and 5 hours including looking for welding wire, nuts and bolts, grease, and much scratching of head, but I think I could do it in less than 2 hours, but I hope I never have to.
Thanks to all.
For any one interested this is how I replaced the clutch cable clip.
Removed front seat and bottom of dashboard for easier access, unclip any wires around the brake pedal area and up near the access hole (near to the bolt that holds the clutch pedal) and push them out of way to give better access, <font color="red">13mm spanner </font id="red">unscrew the nut and cut the head off the bolt with an <font color="red">hacksaw</font id="red"> (wedge something against the clutch pedal to stop the bolt from turning or use <font color="red">mole grips </font id="red">while sawing its head off), withdraw the bolt taking note of how the peddle return spring and nylon bush is attached and lower peddle down, remove the old clutch clip and replace with new one.
TIP: grease the metal bush to stop it falling out and replace return spring and nylon bush, put a piece of masking tape over the side of the spring and bush to hold it all together.
Under the bonnet (you can get better access if you remove the air filter housing which just pulls of but the bracket underneath is fastened with 3 <font color="red">10mm </font id="red">bolts) disconnect the clutch cable from the gearbox housing leaving the nuts in place and push the inner cable back into the outer cable and find some way to wedge it against gearbox housing so that inner cable cant come back out.
Back in the car get the old bolt that you sawed the end off and reuse it (if you’ve not got a new one) and screw the type of nut that has a washer attached back along the full length of the bolt, (the nut cant come of because there aren’t any threads at the end where you sawed the head off)hammer the end over taking care not to damage threads, now get a length of <font color="red">welding wire </font id="red">about 12” long and make a small hook at one end, raise the peddle back up into position and with the welding wire you can guide the clutch cable back into the clip till you hear it click into place.
Under the bonnet unwedge the clutch cable so when you push the clutch pedal the inner cable will retract.
Back in the car align the clutch pedal and push the bolt back in from the side away from brake pedal, making it easier for next time.
There is no need to remove the <font color="red">masking tape </font id="red">as the bolt will push straight through it, now replace the nut and tighten up.
Refit the clutch cable under bonnet and adjust to correct settings listed in the <font color="red">Haynes manual </font id="red">and replace every thing else that you removed and jobs a good-un.
I didn’t want to remove the plastic pushrod from the brake peddle for fear of breaking it, but a replacement can be purchased for less than a fiver, but not a clue as to how its fastened.
It took me between 4 and 5 hours including looking for welding wire, nuts and bolts, grease, and much scratching of head, but I think I could do it in less than 2 hours, but I hope I never have to.
Thanks to all.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by baldrick</i>
Jobs a good-un,
For any one interested this is how I replaced the clutch cable clip.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Many thanks for the good description. I've never done this but my time will come.....
JohnW
Jobs a good-un,
For any one interested this is how I replaced the clutch cable clip.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Many thanks for the good description. I've never done this but my time will come.....
JohnW
Hi
My cluch pedal just fell to the floor on the way home with a 'ping' sound.
I managed to drive the car home without the clutch and it is currently on my driveway.
I have looked at this forum (which has some gr8 advise!) and seen alot of stuff about the clutch clip and how to change it.
I have 2 questions please :-
1) People talk about the clip being plastic but all I have found on the floor is a broken metal u shaped clip. Is this the clip or part of it?
2) I am able to change spark plugs, oil etc but never tried anything difficult and dont have many tools other than spanners. Should I attemt this (inc buying tools) or leave it to a garage?
thanks in adv
cheers
Howard
My cluch pedal just fell to the floor on the way home with a 'ping' sound.
I managed to drive the car home without the clutch and it is currently on my driveway.
I have looked at this forum (which has some gr8 advise!) and seen alot of stuff about the clutch clip and how to change it.
I have 2 questions please :-
1) People talk about the clip being plastic but all I have found on the floor is a broken metal u shaped clip. Is this the clip or part of it?
2) I am able to change spark plugs, oil etc but never tried anything difficult and dont have many tools other than spanners. Should I attemt this (inc buying tools) or leave it to a garage?
thanks in adv
cheers
Howard
rs1800....dont go to garage its not too bad a job dont need many tools a couple of 13 mm spaners a litre of blood no only kidding its tight under there,some help from a mate helps ive done it on my own in about 1.5 hours but it is a shi...@ dont give em £150 thats what i was quoted ..robbing bastards..
RS1800 the metal clip that you have found slides on to the plastic clip to secure the bullet on the end of the clutch cable.
If the plastic clip is still in one piece you may be able to slide the metal piece back on (I use a 3-jaw grabber and a long screwdriver) however it may come off again. I believe that the earlier plastic clips were made of black plastic, mine was, but that the stronger replacements are white.
Like other group members I found that the bolt could be withdrawn without sawing it off by removing the spring loaded plastic canister behind the brake pedal. This canister is meant to give the brakes a more 'natural' feel.
Richard
If the plastic clip is still in one piece you may be able to slide the metal piece back on (I use a 3-jaw grabber and a long screwdriver) however it may come off again. I believe that the earlier plastic clips were made of black plastic, mine was, but that the stronger replacements are white.
Like other group members I found that the bolt could be withdrawn without sawing it off by removing the spring loaded plastic canister behind the brake pedal. This canister is meant to give the brakes a more 'natural' feel.
Richard
thx for info. I now have the part which I see includes the metal clip and will attemp it tomorrow.
I have the white part but if the plastic part is still in 1 piece ill try and just fit the new metal bit to the old part. Is this what u are suggesting?
Also do I need to disconnect from gearbox to get cable in and if I need to remove part behind brake pedal do I need to refit it?
thx
Howard
I have the white part but if the plastic part is still in 1 piece ill try and just fit the new metal bit to the old part. Is this what u are suggesting?
Also do I need to disconnect from gearbox to get cable in and if I need to remove part behind brake pedal do I need to refit it?
thx
Howard
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RichG</i>
Like other group members I found that the bolt could be withdrawn without sawing it off by removing the spring loaded plastic canister behind the brake pedal. This canister is meant to give the brakes a more 'natural' feel.
Richard
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I quote from Richard "<i>This canister is meant to give the brakes a more 'natural' feel</i>." By and large, I reckon this doesn't work well at all. If you replace the internal spring in this canister with a nut of the right size, you have slightly more free play on the pedal (still not much) and a typical "Citroen" rock hard pedal and brakes that repond entirely to pressure on the pedal, not movement. I found it made the braking better controlled and more satisfactory.
The "canister" pulls off without much difficulty, is easily dismantled and easily replaced in the back of the pedal.
JohnW
Like other group members I found that the bolt could be withdrawn without sawing it off by removing the spring loaded plastic canister behind the brake pedal. This canister is meant to give the brakes a more 'natural' feel.
Richard
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I quote from Richard "<i>This canister is meant to give the brakes a more 'natural' feel</i>." By and large, I reckon this doesn't work well at all. If you replace the internal spring in this canister with a nut of the right size, you have slightly more free play on the pedal (still not much) and a typical "Citroen" rock hard pedal and brakes that repond entirely to pressure on the pedal, not movement. I found it made the braking better controlled and more satisfactory.
The "canister" pulls off without much difficulty, is easily dismantled and easily replaced in the back of the pedal.
JohnW
it's not that you have to take out the dash on earlier cars,it's just that it was thought that this was the only way to do it at the time.now it is known that this job can be done in 15-20 mins so dealers dont usually charge anywhere near that now. there are only two differences,the pedal with the spring (self adjusting) or without spring and you do them in the exact same way although the one with spring is a little tighter.