C5 Turbo Renewal

[hamster99]

Hi All
My C5 I think blew its turbo yesterday, it's a 2.0HDI 138, and wondered if it is a difficult job to replace and how long it might take me.

I have now looked in the Haynes manual it talks about removing the subframe, drive shafts, wheel hubs, depressuring the hydraulics etc which to me seems like an awful lot of work. I'm pretty handy with cars but all that seems too much to be able to do over a weekend on my drive!

It may be that its so difficult because it is the 2.0HDI with the turbo behind the engine. My wife's C3 1.6HDI has it nice and conveniently placed right in front where you can get at it. (Maybe the Engine designer had a question mark over the reliability so put the 1.6 turbo there to be kind to the dealers!!)

My dilemma now is that I really like the C5's and, having fitted a new clutch, flywheel, timing belt, front discs and pads, 4 michelins etc in the past 3 months I don't really want to get rid of it.

However, I don't think it's worth taking to a garage as it will likely cost more than a replacement car (if I can find the right spec?)

Any thoughts anyone before I start trawling through ebay and autotrader!

Thanks

Rob

[Stewart(oily)]

I have replaced a turbo on a 2.0 HDI in a 406 and it was not too bad a job, certainly not involving driveshaft removal etc, if the car is off the road I would be tempted to have a good look, I have replaced turbos on the older XUDs with the motor in situ and that was awkward, the HDI is IMO easier, ISTR the whole exhaust manifold did not have to come off and the fastenings holding the turbo onto the manifold came apart relatively easily .

[Axa]

Be sure to check strainer in the oil feed pipe for any containmen that have restricted the flow! I have removed the strainer on my 1,6hdi believin it's better to have the containmen going trough the turbo bearings to be filtered out in the oilfilter, rather then getting caugh in the strainer, starving the turbo for lubeing.
I know there is banjobolts that have redesigned strangers, but don't know how the are/could be improved to avoid the blocking problem??
Also because the feed pipe runs just behind the very hot turbo and DFP I have been told the oil can boil when a hot engine are stopped, and leave carbon containment in the pipe. Guess a clogged pipe could be cleaned with a string. diesel and pressured-air. But I guess the best should be to bend a new longer pipe that avoids the hottest area so the oil won't boil when stopping the engine..

Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 4

[hamster99]

Thanks all, here's a bit more background to it.

The symptoms I had were a distinct lack of power earlier in the day which I put down to it going into limp mode which it rarely does but usually resets itself when restarted. This time it didn't and when driving home after a few miles the power was almost non existent and I barely made it up the exit ramp off the north circular. When I got to the roundabout at the top and dipped the clutch there was a horrible rattling noise, cloud of smoke from exhaust and the engine started to race away. I just managed to pull out of the traffic before it stopped.

Called AA and when chap arrived he suspected turbo failure, checked the oil (almost none left) and then took off the air intake pipes from the inlet manifold and they had loads of oil in them. He said the turbo will have sucked the oil in when it failed. His advice was not to attempt to start the engine as it may cause further damage.

Do you think it will just be a turbo failure or will I have to replace lots of other bits too.

I'm going to have a look under the car Sunday to see if I can get a handle on how difficult or easy it might be.

Rob

[Peter.N.]

Sounds like turbo oil seal failure, its starts sucking engine oil in and burning it as you will have observed. Providing the oil level didn't go low enough to starve the engine it should be OK.

Peter

[hamster99]

Thanks Peter

I think you're right about the oil seals failing.
Disconnected the intakes from the turbo this morning and the engine does start and run and seems OK at the moment.
Fingers crossed it will just need a turbo replacement and cleaning out the air intakes and intercooler.

Rob

[Peter.N.]

Sounds OK but to protect the new turbo change the oil more frequently than recommended.

Peter

[Lighty]

The turbo replacement on a 2.0 C5 is a big job, not to be confused with the earlier 8valve lump of the mk1 C5 & 406.
You will absolutely have to remove the shafts and subframe, plus the precat exhaust which is very fiddly. Once all this is off, the turbo can be romo ed, it's a good job they don't fail often.
In our workshop, with a ramp and all the best tools, also having changed at least 4 of them , it would take the best part of 8 hours. I would not recommend changing one at home unless you have a lot of time & lots of equipment.

[hamster99]

Thanks for the advice Lighty.

Unfortunately as I do not have the cash for a replacement I have little alternative but to have a go myself. At the moment I have a 2-ton garden ornament on my drive so I don't really have anything to lose.

If it all goes t*ts up then I haven't lost anything apart from my free time over a couple of weekends.

The flipside of that is the satisfaction of doing it myself, not to mention the large bundle of cash saved on labour.

Is there a particular piece of equipment which would definately make it an easier job?

Any further advice or tips gratefully received.

Rob

[KevMayer]

The air intake on your 2.0 hdi is identical to the Mk 1 2.2 Hdi.

Both engines have vacuum controlled butterfly valves in the air pipework before the inlet manifold. There are two air paths, one through the intercooler and one through a heated water jacket. When the engine is cold the water heated inlet valve is open and the intercooled leg is closed. This is also the case when the engine does a DPF regeneration.

I had similar symptons on my 2.2Hdi the other day. Very little to no power.

What I found was that the vacuum connection on one of my electrovalves had snapped off. It was the electrovalve controlling the air inlet through the 'water heated' leg. This meant this butterfly was closed but, so was the butterfly of the 'intercooled' leg and so, my engine was starved of any air.

I got lots of black smoke and not enough power to pull the skin off a rice pudding.

I disconnected the vacuum to the 'intercooled' air intake butterfly and this restored the air flow because this butterfly is normally open.

I need to get a new electrovalve.

Could this be the problem with your 2.0 Hdi?

[hamster99]

Hi Kev
No, i'm afraid it's pretty much confirmed as a turbo failure. I would have checked the air intake valves on the weekend anyway if it hadn't given up before I got home.
Thanks for the info though.
Rob

[RichardW]

Not sure of the exact layout, but on the drive it might be easier just to hoik the engine out if you can beg, borrow or steal an engine crane?

[hamster99]

Anyone recommend a good supplier for a reconditioned turbo?

[Peter.N.]

Have a look on ebay, they will probably be the cheapest.

Peter

[hamster99]

Have just been looking online for a replacement turbo and the GT1749V that I need seems to have some sort of cartridge bit in the middle (CHRA?) which contains the shaft and impellors in one unit.

Does this mean I don't have to buy a complete unit and can just do a rebuild with a new CHRA cartridge and seals?