High performance discs for Xantia HDI estate?

[isisalar]

Hi Guys.
Replacement front discs and possibly pads needed for the HDI estate. Shopping around on line I've come across this outfit who seem to offer very good prices for good makes.
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/brake-d ... 00007.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The Bosch ones for £60 pair seem very appealing but the drilled high performance ones for £46 pair even more so. Is there any real advantage to having them drilled? It's unlikely there will be mountain descents anytime soon. They are said to have an aluminium anti corrosion layer, I can't see how aluminium could help with braking efficiency, is this just some cosmetic thing does anyone know? Are these just poser discs?
Never heard of the make, 'Open Parts', anyone know of them, or indeed the mister auto outfit?
They also offer Bolk and ATE, which are unknown to me, and Brembo, Delphi, and TRW, all well known makes. How good or bad are Pagid? Anyone got any recommendations?
I have seen fitting kits mentioned, re changing the pads. Are there any bits that can't be re used when I get round to it?
Sorry to bombard you with so many questions at once chaps, no great rush to do the job and want to get it as right as possible.
Cheers
Paul

[addo]

Mister Auto are an established French provider of parts. Sort of like GSF or ECP.

Malc likes Pagid brake stuff from memory.

If you want to balance price and power on brakes, maybe ask Alistair - he seems to be canny with a quid and interested in performance at the same time.

[Stewart(oily)]

Drilled discs wear pads out faster but will impress your local Saxo drivers, ATE made the everlasting front brakes for my 70s BMW bike, Brembo made the temperamental rear, my current BMW has Brembo all round and needs regular attention, whats in a name ?

[Stickyfinger]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-Xanti ... 51b109be6f" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I used these on mine (when it was alive) and have just put on the same type for my C5. I have and always will however use top end Mintex pads (normal hardness) as I believe the pads are the most important aspect, unless you drive like a nutter and live up a mountain drilled disks are totally pointless. There is no way you should/would get even near brake fade due to heat build up, grotty cheap pads however are dreadful.
I had Silverstone all to myself a while back (:)...was fun) as I was using the C5 as a camera car, after we finished photographing the "subject" I let loose in my C5 Estate and drove it like a nutcase for 10 laps, major handling excrement but Zero brake fade.

A good disk with great pads will always out perform cheep drilled disks. Also, heat dissipates in very complicated ways and cannot be solved by a few holes drilled in some imaginary pattern. JM2cents

[isisalar]

I'm liking the sound of the ATE everlasting brakes Stewart, the discs I take it. Just gone to the top of the list.
Thanks for that link Stickyfinger they're a fiver cheaper than mister auto on there, I'll be checking out the Mintex pads later.
As suspected then, the drilled ones are poser discs and I certainly won't be getting them, thanks for that guys. More work, more materials., and yet they're cheaper, something doesn't add up does it.
Cheers for the info on Mister auto Addo, got them bookmarked now.
One more question, the reason the discs are being changed is because the ones presently fitted are too small and the pads are overlapping the discs. there will obviously be a lip on the pads when they're removed. Is it much of a job to remove such a lip, and what would be best to use, sandpaper, file, sharp knife? The pads seem hardly worn. Would this be false economy and it's best to fit new pads with the discs?
Cheers
Paul

[Stickyfinger]

Would this be false economy and it's best to fit new pads with the discs?

...I would never do that, they "fit themselves" to the disk, new disks will be damaged by old pads.

Rule No1 of good safe braking, New disks New pads

A lip of more than a few MM shows how far your disk has worn and is a good guide as to when to change them.

[Northern_Mike]

A good disk with great pads will always out perform cheep drilled disks. Also, heat dissipates in very complicated ways and cannot be solved by a few holes drilled in some imaginary pattern. JM2cents

Discs aren't generally drilled to get rid of heat any more. It's done to stop any moisture building up, especially on motorcycles. Slotting to get rid of dust and gas build up is a much more efficient way.

I can't think of a modern racing formula that uses drilled discs. They're either solid/vented as in F1, or slotted like the BTCC use. No drilling at all.

[Northern_Mike]

Hi Guys.
Replacement front discs and possibly pads needed for the HDI estate. Shopping around on line I've come across this outfit who seem to offer very good prices for good makes.
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/brake-d ... 00007.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The Bosch ones for £60 pair seem very appealing but the drilled high performance ones for £46 pair even more so. Is there any real advantage to having them drilled? It's unlikely there will be mountain descents anytime soon. They are said to have an aluminium anti corrosion layer, I can't see how aluminium could help with braking efficiency, is this just some cosmetic thing does anyone know? Are these just poser discs?
Never heard of the make, 'Open Parts', anyone know of them, or indeed the mister auto outfit?
They also offer Bolk and ATE, which are unknown to me, and Brembo, Delphi, and TRW, all well known makes. How good or bad are Pagid? Anyone got any recommendations?
I have seen fitting kits mentioned, re changing the pads. Are there any bits that can't be re used when I get round to it?
Sorry to bombard you with so many questions at once chaps, no great rush to do the job and want to get it as right as possible.
Cheers
Paul

I put Delphi ones on the Berlingo when they were changed about 8 months ago. I have no complaints at all. I had some Pagid ones on one of my MX5s, they were decent enough as well.

[oscar]

Hi drilled discs make them more prone to cracking the best is two slots across disc face either side of centre (aka rallycross)which clears gas build up which can on ie long descents etc float the pads off bit like aquaplaning but don't think your going to be doing that unless fully loaded on things like alpine passes etc. the drilling is designed to make the gas pass through into venting but slots are made to push out sides/middle.
There are differences in the casting quality of discs with iron quality etc also some makes are more prone to warping(fraud tranny types were always doing)one bad thing for them which kippers them quicker is hard braking then holding brake down as heat stays in that place and warps them you should when braking use max then start to release as slowing down to almost off as you stop plus dont get that jerk as you stop where everyone in cars like a nodding dog from it.
Pagid are great pads etc ATE are also think if i remember bolk was also as most of them are OEM fitments many discs come form a few sources also then like everything else boxed up with someone elses badges.
Brembo's are pretty nicely casted so last/stay true.
I personally avoid EBC gear(but think have gone boobs up?)No dust but no brakes either.Mintex used to be fantastic when made in Leeds then like most other companies thought they'd be smart and made elsewhere for cheaper used to have 1144's with the slot across pad(which gives you a double leading edge so more control)they did away with that and compound was softer(had a set fade on me)so returned them and got a new set.(Have had discs turn blue so have had them hot so got them to work/set up well)
Ferodo are great also but can be expensive in higher compounds but get what you pay for.
For normal driving phut phuting around most pads are ok as there softer so work/get upto heat quicker where as the higher grades/motorsport types which are harder take longer but can hold effect for longer when "hot"/less fade.But don't work aswell when cold(like moto gp bikes went away from carbon discs as couldnt keep upto temps to make them work like when you see F1 swerving to heat tyres also braking to keep them hot)
So thats the choice you need to make ie if your someone towing/loaded up/push it alot etc then go for better spec pads but if your someone that drives 60's steady driving not throwing it around/last second braking for bends etc just go for a reasonable pad(Pagid/Ate/Bendex etc
Also the harder pads have metal in them which if like i had white wheels they left burn marks all round rim as the dust burns.

I spent alot of time working/studying on brakes when building my car

[oscar]

What some of them come with is a coating like galvanising which is quite good as don't get so much rust build up inside/round centres (parkerising!)? or something like that.
I'd give those drilled ones a go as save a tenner and coated and doubt you'd get them that hot anyway to damage them.

[Deanxm]

Drilled discs are drilled to dissipate gasses and water from the contact area under heavy (very) braking BUT they are noisy under braking, cheap ones can be much more prone to cracking and you have to keep the holes clear of brake dust as they clog over time, no noticable advantage to them on the roads at all imo. Grooved discs are for de glazing the pads mainly, again no point on the roads really. Not unless your pulling up from 100mph every 20 seconds but i dont think the HDI would do that anyway, well not twice.

If you like the look then get them but my preference would be some reasonable discs and the best road pads you can afford.

D

[isisalar]

Thanks for all the information guys. With the positive feedback I'm leaning towards the ATE discs and pads but would be happy to use anything that's been recommended. That's what's so good about this forum, lots of unbiased genuine knowledge freely available.
It will be interesting to see how much of a difference fitting the correct size discs will make. The braking has never felt as good as the others and I had put it down to the previous owner fitting very hard pads. Interestingly I've just checked the meticulous service history and there's no mention of any discs ever being fitted? I'm guessing that they're the 266x20.5mm ones from a saloon, as opposed to the 288x28mm ones which should be fitted. With the pads about 50% worn would the pistons be getting close to the limit of their travel with the skinny discs? It may be my imagination but the braking seems to be getting worse since the reason was discovered.
Cheers
Paul

[addo]

I've experienced significant brake fade; steep descent with about a tonne unbraked on the towbar. Boiling LHM makes a funny smell!