Lucas EPIC Injection Pump Overhaul Guide

[moizeau]

You have the o rings in the kit, but when you do the in car fix you will use them, so you need to get some more to put back in the kit to do the complete recon. Before removing the top solenoid clean around it well with a bit of diesel and a toothbrush, then wipe off. When you do the full reseal, set all the o rings out on a bench grouping the same sizes together, then count them, cross reference what you have of each size with the quantities stated in the kit to find out which ones are which numbers (not explained that very well but I hope you follow). The kit only gives part numbers, not sizes. Some are very similar. If you need a manual PM me.
I haven't changed the stop solenoid in either of the pumps I've done, but for 20 €, why not.
All the best

Pete

PS to all, may need to include Opel/Vauxhall on here soon!!

[CitroJim]

"So clean that you could take it indoors and the other half would not complain " I would have to clean it for a long time using some super stuff:)

That's how clean it needs to be

[XMcoda]

Hi, my brother just brought several Delphi seal kits from France, so I plan to start overhauling one of the diesel pumps. I`ve got one on the table now, cleaned and ready:) I guess a manual would be very helpful. Tried to send a PM to moizeau but it does´t seem to leave my outbox. Anyone got a manual to shear?

regards,
Onar

[myglaren]

Just PM'd you. Your PM will stay in the outbox until the recipient opens it.

[moizeau]

Just seen the PM and replied, not been logged in for a while, just been browsing. How did you get on with the in situ fix? Did you find any leaks? After a rebuild it's a good idea to make a leak test. Dead simple. Connect the fuel inlet and outlet banjos together with a T piece in between, put an old car tyre valve on the t piece, connect a 12v + and - to the harness centre pins (can't remember off the top of my head which way round, but the manual tells you), this opens the stop solenoid. Make sure the pump has no diesel in it, only air. Use a bike pump with manometer to put 1.2 bar of pressure in the pump, dump the pump into a vat of diesel and look for air bubbles, the official test uses 'test fluid' but diesel will work. The complete leak test procedure is noted in the manual, keep us posted. Nothing worse than not knowing the end of the story. Best of luck

[CitroJim]

I've always used LHM as a test fluid... Safer than diesel and kinder to your skin

[moizeau]

I prefer 'rouge', Where do you buy your LHM? If it can get close to 1€/litre then I'll buy it from you. Having said that, I do rinse my hands with petrol if really oily, not recommended but it works, and as for now they haven/t fell off!

[CitroJim]

I prefer 'rouge', Where do you buy your LHM? If it can get close to 1€/litre then I'll buy it from you. Having said that, I do rinse my hands with petrol if really oily, not recommended but it works, and as for now they haven/t fell off!

I buy LHM in bulk wherever I see it going at a good price. Often at rallies... I have built up a fair stock now that should last several years!!!

Diesel and petrol are definitely not good for the skin... Skin contact with diesel especially should be avoided. It can cause contact dermatitis and that's nasty in the extreme...

Hence test fluid...

I always wear nitrite gloves when doing any work on cars nowadays but then I have good reason to. See above...

Also, after washing your hands always use a good moisturiser

[Hell Razor5543]

My Mother recommends using a good barrier cream of your hands before doing any dirty work, as it helps to keep dirt off your hands (and makes it easier to clean them afterwards).

[CitroJim]

My Mother recommends using a good barrier cream of your hands before doing any dirty work, as it helps to keep dirt off your hands (and makes it easier to clean them afterwards).

Yes, a very good recommendation James... I always use good old Vaseline for that - under nitrile gloves it also helps prevent blisters resulting from sweaty hands...

That is one big problem with wearing gloves all the time - they don't breathe so you both need to change them regularly and keep the old Vaseline on the go...

[mb70000]

Hello,
I have to apologize, I am not driving a French car.

But I have troubles with the epic LUCAS EPIC injection pump. Symptoms are well known.
Engine does not proper idle. In winter it takes a minute then the troubles start. At temperatures of 15 degrees celsius troubles starts after 15 seconds. Idle rpm alternates between 100 and 1500 and engine suddenly stalls at red light and crossings.
Above idle rpm when pressing the drive pedal engine produces full power.
Pump is not leaking.
7 years ago pump and car rested four and a half year. It did not start at all.
Therefore I recond the pump. I did not clean the transfer pump because I was to difficult for me to press the shaft out.
After that procedure engine started and run. Small differences of idle rpm occurred.

Time went by with further use of the car 35.000 km and the symptoms grew worse.

Pump in total about 440.000km.

By the way the Mercedes version of the Lucas EPIC pump has engine oil lubricated bearing and as a result two shaft seals one against the engine oil and another against diesel.

Dear moizeau may I ask you what you think is the reason for the alternating idle rpm?
Could it be the transfer pump? The transfer pump maybe does not pump enough fuel in idle rpm, would be my guess. Could one or more of the four moving parts in the transfer pump not doing its job because the old fuel glued them together? And 35.000km of further use did not remedy it?
Hope nobody is bored with my questions.
BR,
Adi

[Rhothgar]

Thread was last answered 2 years ago.

It won’t be boredom that precludes your post being answered!

Hope you get your answer. This forum is extremely good.

[xantia_v6]

Jim, the original author of this topic is not currently participating on this forum due to issues with his health. He was our resident expert on the EPIC pumps. There are one or two others with some experience of them.

I don't have personal experience of the EPIC, but from past conversations, I know that they are very much affected by any air bubbles that get into the diesel line, and this particularly affects the idle quality and speed regulation.

Have you done anything to ensure that there is no air getting into the fuel line, or tried running the pump from a temporary gravity-fed supply?

[moizeau]

Adi, the problem will most likely be the viton o rings under the top solenoid. They can be replaced in situ for next to no money. Have a read through the post, there will be measurements mentioned and a description on how to do it. Only use o rings that can cope with fuels, not garden equipment. If you decide to go a head, make sure everything is very clean before you remove the solenoid and use petroleum jelly to hold the new ones in place during reassembly. Also be aware that the wires that you will see (13 I think) will have very brittle insulation that can fall off exposing bare wires. This will then require a new fasceau soldering in (200 euros for the part) or replacing each wire. Although air ingress can be a problem, if the problem gets worse when warm, it's generally the o rings.

[velvetpig]

I haven't noticed any leaks but I will check this. I have to renew timing belt and water pump, so it`s not so much extra work to dismantle the pump. It would be interesting to try the one hour in-car-fix to locate the problem(s). I already purchased a gasket kit: Delphi 9109-750. I guess this contains all the parts I need?

Hi,
I know this is a old thread but i need some help. I am in Australia and cant find a Gasket kit for my pump. I only need Size of "O" Ring shown as Part Number 760 shown in Kit Diagram above.
ID and OD would be a great help.
All The Best