Xantia TD - New purchase problems

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philhoward

Xantia TD - New purchase problems

Post by philhoward »

Hi All...
Just bought a 154k Xantia TD (95M), but want to know what the situation is with the following problems:
1) Airbag light stays on after its 5 mins flashing (duff, I expect)
2) Pulsing brake pedal (gets worse the harder I press - Brake Valve U/S?)
3) No remote key, so can't use the alarm or deadlocks; how much for a new one?
4) Funny rubbing noise from the front nearside wheel (sticky calliper?) upto 20-30mph
If it looks too bad, then i'll take it back to the dealer I bought it off...
Your input, please?
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Sounds like a back to dealer business anyway - if the car is bought with any sort of warranty.
1) Could be the sensor switch cabling sheared at drivers seat.
2) Air in suspension - try Citaerobics :
http://citroenz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42
Try time the interval between the clicking/ticking sound from the hydraulics - if interval faster than approx 20-30sec's - then the accumulator sphere is flat.
3) Not exactly cheap
4) likely - at least the wheel has to come off for inspection of the problem.
blueboy2001
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Post by blueboy2001 »

As Anders say, check the wiring under the seats as these are the most common cause of the airbag light coming on.
Pulsing brake pedal may be down to the fact you are not used to the car - the brakes feel like nothing else I've ever driven. There is a mod you can do to the brake pedal pushrod to make it solid - have a look at the search facility and you'll find all you need to know.
New remote keys are £56.50+VAT from Citroen, thats just for the plip, a cut key will cost about another £6 on top of that. You can operate the deadlocks by holding the key in the lock position for a few seconds, but it won't activate the alarm. The factory fit alarms are not the most reliable of things and many owners turn them off. Don't be surprised to buy a new plip and still not get a properly working alarm.
Noise could be anything, a new set of discs and pads may solve it or it could be something more sinsiter. Xantia's are hard on their front brakes and discs don't last all that long.
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

I'm not sure how the handbrake cable is fixed on a Xantia but on a BX the cable is supported by a wire bracket fixed to the hub carrier where it joins the strut. The wire is prone to breaking off and the cable then flops around and can contact the wheel rim. I also had a rubbing sound when the strut return pipes broke.
The brake pedal should NOT pulse - and as Anders says your first check is the frequency of the regulator ticking. There are extensive posts on here dealing with pulsing Xantia pedals.
jeremy
philhoward

Post by philhoward »

Shall have a look at the pretensioner wiring today, and try the Citaerobics; I'm used to Citroen brakes, having previously had a BX. I was actually shocked that there is movement in the brake pedal at all! The almost on-off application of the brakes is very worrying; feels like a slow ABS pulse...but i don't have ABS! I've previously heard about brake valve problems and this being the usual symptom. Gentle braking doesn't give the problem, but sharp braking is very worrying...heaven knows what it would be like with the caravan on the back as well!
Might leave the key as it is at that price...
philhoward

Post by philhoward »

Done the Citaerobics; no difference. Still feels like (at 30-4mph, anyway) like the brakes apply themselves more for no more pedal input, then release a bit...very disconcerting when trying to judge braking distances!
Not found any broken wires for the tensioner...as yet! Will have another look when it stops raining :-(
Nikolaymk
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Post by Nikolaymk »

on point 3)
You can use the deadlocks without the remote. When you lock your vehicle hold the key into locked position for more than 2 seconds, you will hear a second click and the deadlocks will be armed. Unlock your car the normal way after that. Just don't lose the key with the deadlocks on.
If you only have only one key Timpsons key cutting will cut you a spare for £12.00
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

I think your Xantia has a twin outlet pump and in fact only has 2 cylinders feeding the brakes and suspension. This system seems to work well while the accumulator is good but if it has failed the brakes will be reliant on the pump output alone (no feedback from the suspension due to the operation of the height correctors). This problem was not so pronounced an the BX as the pump only had one output and the whole of that output was available for the brakes providing you weren't steering at the same time.
jeremy
philhoward

Post by philhoward »

Sounds like an accumulator sphere problem?
Just been checking the ticks when sitting at normal ride height...6 to 7 seconds does sound like the acc. sphere's gone for a burton. Quick call to GSF, me thinks!
Be best to try the accumulator sphere, and then see if the brake problem disappears, I guess. Whilst trying the citaerobics, I did get 4-5 seconds of STOP flickering when going from bottom to top, and then it took 30 seconds plus to get there.
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

generally there are 2 factors which affect ticking spped - one being the health of the sphere and the second being the condition of the regulator non-return valve. The valve is accessed from the sphere seat and is a simple ball bearing valve. certainly on a BX regulator you find a bolt holding a metal plate which keeps the central regulator valve plunger in position and also the ball bearing non return valve. The valve can be re-seated by tapping it smartly with a BRASS rod or punch and it made a world of difference to my BX. You must NOT use a steel punch as this will probably put a flat on the ball.
I have done the job on my BX with the regulator on the car.
With a good sphere my BX will rise at the back while I fill it with fuel. It will also adjust itself when I get into it. - this is without the engine running. Your Xantia probably has anti sink so this test will not work.
Jeremy
timmsd
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Post by timmsd »

If this car has come from a dealer I suggest you take it back before you try and fix anything yourself. Sometimes they can be quite accommodating.
If it had a full MOT then it shouldn't have with the ABS light on so I would use that as some leaverage to get the work done from you.
I looked at a car last week for someone that was being sold by an MOT garage with a full MOT. The exhaust was blowing and the brakes didn't work.... Makes you wonder who did the MOT!
Diagsys
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Post by Diagsys »

don't bother with a visual inspection of the pretensioner wires just cut out the connector under the seat and replace it with some heatshrink bullet connectors. Theres not usually much visible signs of deterioration, but the contacts work lose a LOT. Also when you brake hard does the car tend to dive at the front slightly?
philhoward

Post by philhoward »

Diagsys - It's a bit difficult to tell if it is diving a little under braking; perhaps a little, but its difficult to tell when you're more concerned at where you're going to stop!
timmsd - it's not the ABS at fault (it hasn't got it), but the red light on the airbag which gets very annoying at night!
Jeremy - i'm going with the accumulator sphere being duff as it appears that this could be related to the kangaroo braking. The 6-7 second ticks fall in with this theory. Try and get back to the dealer this weekend and report back.
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