stopped for 5 min. temp gauge in red..................

[john]

ok so the top rad hose wasnt getting got, replaced the thermostat, top hose now gets hot but the temp guage goes into the red and bleeps STOP just like before, i powered the fan and it does work but its been messed with, the 2 wires have been soldered onto 2 different wires that then run to a relay.

This may have been asked but is the water pump okay?

i assume its ok as the top hose gets hot.

with regards to a lexia, what can it tell me thats would be useful apart from water temp?

[Ben82]

ok so the top rad hose wasnt getting got, replaced the thermostat, top hose now gets hot but the temp guage goes into the red and bleeps STOP just like before, i powered the fan and it does work but its been messed with, the 2 wires have been soldered onto 2 different wires that then run to a relay.

This may have been asked but is the water pump okay?

i assume its ok as the top hose gets hot.

with regards to a lexia, what can it tell me thats would be useful apart from water temp?

I'm guessing you mean just in relation to this issue. It may also give you whether the fans should be on or not, and whether at low or high speed. There may also be non-CEL error stored that may help

[brittleware]

and a red STOP on the clocks, along with a bleeping

this if the best pic i can get, it flashes off and on



ive checked the coolant, its between the min-max but brown as hell



also checked the oil, again its between the min-max but removing the cap it looks a tad dry





so what is that all about? i only bought the car today (cheap enough) and did 100+ miles no problem, this all started when i stopped when i got home.

Betcha it's the engine temperature sensor. They fail often and lie about temperature - usually before the engine is remotely warm. Your oil looks fine, your coolant looks crap.

[john]

so why does it say its ok until its stood still for a bit?

[addo]

Did you bleed through the thermostat housing? If not, then you are seeing a delayed overheat due to air pockets in the head.

The oil baffle looks normal for a "working" motor of ten-odd years age. As in, not pampered. An engine flush followed by lifetime use of full synth changed regularly, will help arrest further buildup.

[john]

Did you bleed through the thermostat housing? If not, then you are seeing a delayed overheat due to air pockets in the head.

The oil baffle looks normal for a "working" motor of ten-odd years age. As in, not pampered. An engine flush followed by lifetime use of full synth changed regularly, will help arrest further buildup.

didn't even know there was a bleed thing on the thermstat, did see the bolt head and wonder what it was though.

did an engine flush and put fresh oil in.

[addo]

Brass headed screw. You'll be surprised how much air is in there. As an FYI the temp sender in many of these doesn't actually immerse in coolant but sits in a dry pocket in the head.

[john]

Brass headed screw. You'll be surprised how much air is in there. As an FYI the temp sender in many of these doesn't actually immerse in coolant but sits in a dry pocket in the head.

mmm, its not a brass headed 1 that i saw, that pic looks different - are you just using that as a an example of what it looks like?

[john]

how do yo properly bleed the system?

i flushed the coolant, carefully filled the rad. ran the engine but rad level didnt seem to go down, i removed the "bleed" screw at the thermostat and i could see water, just sitting there, i removed the rad. cap and the water began over flowing so turned the engine off.

[addo]

Something is wrong then.

It helps to have a bleed funnel but it's not essential. After filling the side mounted header tank as much as you can, open the top radiator bleed screw and squeeze the hoses until the header stank stops going down. Leave the bleeder open, and open the thermostat housing bleed screw to reveal its side hole. Also open the heater hose bleed cap by removing it. Squeeze the hoses again until water starts coming out the radiator bleed a bit.

Start the motor and make sure the header tank is brimmed; once you have a constant flow of water out the radiator bleed, close it. Leave the cap off the radiator and wait for water to start jetting out the thermostat housing bleed screw. Once it's a steady stream, close it off. Almost immediately the heater hose bleed screw will start spurting - cap it off now. Run until the water starts to fully overflow the header tank or rise up appreciably in the bleeding funnel. Now stop the car and fit the cap. You should be all bled up.

[john]

really doing my head in now, i bleed the system, i can feel luke warm air start to come through vents, the hose from the engine to the heater is hot, the 1 from the heater to the rad (think thats where it goes) is only luke warm, when i rev it a little the air gets hot and the temp guage shoots straight to the red and i get the STOP flashing and beeping, if i remove the heater hose bleed cap a lot of air comes out then the water pishes out and the temp gauge cools down but so does the air.

how can i test the water pump as im starting to think it may not work, weird how it didn't overheat on the drive home.

[john]

well it appears that at last I have bled the system, I get hot air through the vents, the top hose is hot, temp guage stays at the half way point had it there for 10 minutes and it seemed ok, no sign of the fan coming on, I've bought a lexia which will hopefully be here by the weekend, probably no need for it now but it may come in handy.

[john]

well, this is the 1st time ive driven the car since my last post, drove it about 3 miles, all was ok, sat for 5 minutes and the guage goes to the red and the STOP starts flashing and beeping, ive since got a lexia which i intend to use for the 1st time later, not sure what im looking for - if anything.

[john]

ok, so it was booked in for an mot, the tester abandoned the test as the car overheated, he said it had a bad leek and showed me where from (engine wasn't running so i couldn't see it, i drove it whilst the gauge was in the red and STOP was flashing, i drove about 1/2 a mile and the gauge went back to the 1/2 was point, now, it didnt slowly drop over a few minutes it dropped back to 1/2 in about 2 sec, just like when it goes to the red, its like there is no in between, anyway i hope to get to the scrappies tomorrow and source another rad.