xantia 110 hdi clutch

[taffy]

Well my clutch is about had it now....barely movin so I had already got clutch kit as I'm gona dimyself...got wishbone bushs and tie rods on way...but after renewing all this I thought about clutch components.....what would you guys suggest to renew while The box is off...thanks in advance

[CitroJim]

Clutch and driveshaft seals..

Take special care of the slave cylinder when swapping the clutch taffy and tie up the clutch pedal so it can't operate the slave and cause it to fall to bits. be very careful upon reinserting it too...

Are you happy with doing the 110 clutch? It's not entirely conventional and you need to engage the release bearing after fitting with a special tool.

If you need further advice just shout...

[taffy]

Thanks jim..

Yea I'm gona get a block of wood just to make sure!
I'm very nervous about doing The job tbh but I can't afford The garage charge so I jus gota get on with it...
I'm gona have 2 axle stands an 2 tjacks....any advice is welcome I jus don wana bust a pipe!

[citroenxm]

I've done 3 or 4 of these now. There's no need for any special tools for engaging the release bearing.

Once you have the old clutch off yes the release bearing and clutch will be as one BUT when you fit the new one put the release bearing on the gearbox input shaft and the the clutch on the engine as normal make sure the release bearing is attached to the release arm correctly. Fit the gearbox back onto the engine and tighten the bolts then through the starter motor hole push the back of the clutch release arm until you hear it click the release bearing into place. . Then to check push the release arm from the slave cylinder end if its engaged you won't be able to push it far.. the tool? A large screw driver...

[citronut]

so if what you say works Paul,
isnt it possible once the gear box is back after fitting the bearing to the box and clutch to the flywheel,
just press the clutch pedal down to engage the thrust bearing into the pressure plate fingers,
instead of using a long screw driver

[citroenxm]

No Malcolm .. pressing the clutch its a pull clutch. So it won't engage the bearing.. . You have to reverse operate the release arm through the starter hole to engage to release bearing. . You don't want to go putting the Slave cylinder in pressing the clutch to find the release bearing hasn't engaged and your slave clylinder has popped its rod and dumped the fluid. . Its a sealed system. .

Simply pressing it through the slave cylinder orface with a screw driver will tell you if its engage .. you know then its safe to refit the slave cylinder without it popping. ..

[citronut]

No Malcolm .. pressing the clutch its a pull clutch. So it won't engage the bearing.. . You have to reverse operate the release arm through the starter hole to engage to release bearing. . You don't want to go putting the Slave cylinder in pressing the clutch to find the release bearing hasn't engaged and your slave clylinder has popped its rod and dumped the fluid. . Its a sealed system. .

Simply pressing it through the slave cylinder orface with a screw driver will tell you if its engage .. you know then its safe to refit the slave cylinder without it popping. ..

of course silly me

ok so why cant you just engage the fork into the thrust bearing as the box comes up to the engine, as i do on TD's?????

[citroenxm]

Because the release arm won't fit behind the bearing after.. been here tried it. . You MUST fit them to the box and engine like a push clutch then reverse engage the release bearing after the box is mated back to the engine. .

[taffy]

Thank you very much for The advice gents
I will be doin mine next week now..I've ordered new wishbone bushs tie rods driveshaft seals so I can do a lot in one go....nervous and looking forward to it I just hope its gona go ok....I'm gona get flywheel skimmed too just to make sure its ok....I want to take engine out really but I can't as no crane....any other tips or tricks that I need to know?thank you guys

[citronut]

not sure with a XANT but with a BX you can lower the engine and box downwards onto the floor in one lump, with just the use of a trolley jack and no crane,

[citroenxm]

Not in a xantia.. there's far too much in the way.. subframe fouls on the Turbo so if you try and move forward the altinator and HP pump foul the radiator and front cross member. . So its not easy to drop it down.

The 110hdi gearbox is a far bigger beast and heavier box too. . There's not much room to move it aside but it is possible. . Don't drop the box out unless you have a hand to lift it back in place. . I use one jack to support the engine.. lower it slightly at the gearbox end. . Move the box off the engine and support it on the subframe and a second jack.. you need to remove the gearbox mount first completely first after unbolting it from the rubber mount..

[taffy]

Thank you guys...
Would you crack The box bolts while mounts still on?
Also iv never removed The lhm tank before any tips?
Lol also removal of accumulator and would u remove The rad?
Thank you
Oh lord lol and how do u lock flywheel to remove...I think that's it lol

[citroenxm]

Why do you want to lock the crank? Why do you want to remove the lhm tank? The tank seat is still in the way so your best just working under it. . No there's no need to crack the bolts before removing the gearbox mount the box won't fall off on its own. . Remove the regulator and pas pipe off the front of the bell house and remember to also remove the main suspension feed pipe curly bit on the front edge of the gearbox...

[flying clutchman]

One little word of caution on the release bearing. I've done quite a few of these type clutches (citroen,peugeot alfa) and I recently had one on a big newish Peugeot (807?) I pushed the clutch arm back with a screwdriver till it clicked, put the slave on and pumped the pedal afew times, all good. Customer drove off in the car, got down the road and clutch pedal went to the floor. I rushed down to have a look and found the arm detached again. Clicked it back into position, then got a bar and levered abit more and it went 'clonk'. Now it was properly seated. The first time it had obviously not seated fully. This is the only time in 30 or so of these type of clutches I've had this problem, but my advice would be to lever the arm firmly to make sure it's fully connected. Sighs of relief all round that day!

[taffy]

thanks for your advice gents much appreaciated...
im going for it today now try and get flywheel off by tonite so i can get it skimmed...
also i plan on changeing my nsf inner tie rod end...i looked ip on it dont look hard but on the new one i got there are two weird washers...any ideas might they be for a different model as i havent seen them on pics ive seen
gona take some pics too