Hello people!
Firstly i'd like to say thanks for all your help in the past, it been very helpfull.
Now the time has come again for me to pick your brains on the subject of car Batteries. i recently had a New car alarm fitted, mainly due to some B******s nicking some stuff off of my car, anyway, ive noticed since i've had the alarm installed that when i have the Headlights on they seem to give a slight flicker, along with the interior iluminations, now i know exactly nothing about batteries so i'd like to know:
Do i need to buy a new battery?
Do i need to buy a more powerfull battery?
If i need a more powerfull battery (If ithere is such a thing)will i need to replace anything else?
CHEERS ![:D][:D]
Why a new Battery??
Moderator: RichardW
It may not be your battery.
That kind of flickering is often associated with a fault in the voltage regulator or even dodgy earths, however, in this case where you've had a new alarm fitted, I'd start there.
I also had an alarm & immobiliser fitted to my 16V BX with the result that it now runs the battery flat if it's not used for a few days, even if I don't have the alarm armed. My car has a new battery which has been properly tested and is OK.
If however you do find you need a new battery, over here we have a range of batteries sold as "European specs" batteries. These are about the physical size of an 11 plate battwey but are rated at 550 CCA, which is 'cold crank amps' but apparently they don't use this sytem over your way, so let me say, it's a powerful battery particularly as regards to it's starting strength first start of the day (ie) spins the starter fast whilst still throwing plenty of spark at the ignition.
No doubts someone will give the UK equivalent of what I'm talking about, but first, I'd be checking that alarm installation & see if all connections on both + & - sides are tight & clean.
Alan S
That kind of flickering is often associated with a fault in the voltage regulator or even dodgy earths, however, in this case where you've had a new alarm fitted, I'd start there.
I also had an alarm & immobiliser fitted to my 16V BX with the result that it now runs the battery flat if it's not used for a few days, even if I don't have the alarm armed. My car has a new battery which has been properly tested and is OK.
If however you do find you need a new battery, over here we have a range of batteries sold as "European specs" batteries. These are about the physical size of an 11 plate battwey but are rated at 550 CCA, which is 'cold crank amps' but apparently they don't use this sytem over your way, so let me say, it's a powerful battery particularly as regards to it's starting strength first start of the day (ie) spins the starter fast whilst still throwing plenty of spark at the ignition.
No doubts someone will give the UK equivalent of what I'm talking about, but first, I'd be checking that alarm installation & see if all connections on both + & - sides are tight & clean.
Alan S
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BonceChops
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I'd go with Neil and Alan. Considering the problem seems to have occurred after the alarm was fitted, I'd suspect that. A modern electronic alarm should consume minute amounts of power, and should last for weeks before draining the battery.
At the end of the day, a battery is just a reservoir, holding a finite amount of electric charge. The higher the current rating, the greater the charge. All that changing to a higher rated battery will do is allow you to turn over the engine longer before the battery goes flat.
The only time when a battery is really put to the test is during starting, when the starter motor (and glowplugs) draws a vast amount of current (thats why diesels tend to have bigger batteries than petrol ones). A good way of checking the condition of your battery is to go for a decent run to get it charged up. Leave it for an hour or so, then crank the engine with all the lights on. If the lights dim substantially, I would recommend replacing the battery.
Mark.
At the end of the day, a battery is just a reservoir, holding a finite amount of electric charge. The higher the current rating, the greater the charge. All that changing to a higher rated battery will do is allow you to turn over the engine longer before the battery goes flat.
The only time when a battery is really put to the test is during starting, when the starter motor (and glowplugs) draws a vast amount of current (thats why diesels tend to have bigger batteries than petrol ones). A good way of checking the condition of your battery is to go for a decent run to get it charged up. Leave it for an hour or so, then crank the engine with all the lights on. If the lights dim substantially, I would recommend replacing the battery.
Mark.
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Bigbrother
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A quick check (if you have a multi meter)
test voltage across battery when switched off - shuold be around 12.5 volts DC
~disconnect meter & start car~
test voltage across battery when idling - should be nearer 14 + volts DC
if its low (er than 14) rev the engine to confirm voltage goes above 14 volts
Like i say just a quick check.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
bb
test voltage across battery when switched off - shuold be around 12.5 volts DC
~disconnect meter & start car~
test voltage across battery when idling - should be nearer 14 + volts DC
if its low (er than 14) rev the engine to confirm voltage goes above 14 volts
Like i say just a quick check.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
bb
Leonardo -
It MAY indicate overcharging of the battery - as water then disappears more rapid from the electrolytic process : H2O -> H + 2O.
Check the pole voltage of your battery using a multimeter. You should have no more than 14.4V when engine (and alternator) is rev'ed for a while.
On the the other hand the voltage should be at least 14.0V (directlty on poles - not clamps) under same condition - but with your headlights on.
It MAY indicate overcharging of the battery - as water then disappears more rapid from the electrolytic process : H2O -> H + 2O.
Check the pole voltage of your battery using a multimeter. You should have no more than 14.4V when engine (and alternator) is rev'ed for a while.
On the the other hand the voltage should be at least 14.0V (directlty on poles - not clamps) under same condition - but with your headlights on.
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Kowalski
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Ex 97 Xantia 1.9TD SX 144k
Ex 94 Xantia Dimension 1.9TD 199k
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AndersDK</i>
Leonardo -
It MAY indicate overcharging of the battery - as water then disappears more rapid from the electrolytic process : H2O -> H + 2O.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
H2O means 2 Hydrogens and one Oxygen, not the other way around.
2 H2O -> 2 H2 + O2
Leonardo -
It MAY indicate overcharging of the battery - as water then disappears more rapid from the electrolytic process : H2O -> H + 2O.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
H2O means 2 Hydrogens and one Oxygen, not the other way around.
2 H2O -> 2 H2 + O2
I had the alternator go overvolts on my DTR Turbo, and as Anders says the battery boils and the top gets covered with acid. What really alerted me to the situation was the headlamps working better for some of the time! It seems that they really appreciate the extra volts as did the wipers. What was also noticeable was a slight and intermittent slowing of the engine - just enough to make you think that something wasn't quite right.
I replaced it in the middle of my holiday as I began to get concerned as to the effect on the numerous electronic bits on the car. The accessory shop owner kindly offered not to charge me a deposit if I changed it in the road outside hs shop! Glad I didn't take him up on his offer as I ended up removing the oil filter, hydraulic feed pipe and eventually the top radiator mount before I could wiggle it out! - all in the middle of a campsite!
happy days!
Jeremy
I replaced it in the middle of my holiday as I began to get concerned as to the effect on the numerous electronic bits on the car. The accessory shop owner kindly offered not to charge me a deposit if I changed it in the road outside hs shop! Glad I didn't take him up on his offer as I ended up removing the oil filter, hydraulic feed pipe and eventually the top radiator mount before I could wiggle it out! - all in the middle of a campsite!
happy days!
Jeremy