xantia cambelt

[froggy]

Hi , my Xantia 1.9 TD, Iam going to try and change the cambelt on my Xantia! ( never done one before!!) Would there be a" how to do " thread on the subject . Here"s PRAYING there is ! many thanks inadvance Terry .

[Xaccers]

It actually is over all not that hard a job, although there are some moments which are complete PITA.
Be prepared beforehand for what you'll need.

Camblet kit of course, some people change tensioners every other belt change as they're pretty tough, but it is down to the individual, personally I'd change them.
Axle stands - put them under the front jacking points and set the car on low to give you enough room to safely work underneath without the engine being too high for a trolly jack under the sump which helps move the engine up and down to get at everything.
Water pump - you definitely want to change it, they don't like the belt being changed so better to be safe than have to do the job again. You want the type with the metal shield built in to the design, so if there's a metal plate sticking out of the pump by the pulley then you've got the right type (if you can see the pulley from all directions around it whilst holding it 12 inches or more away from you, you've got the wrong type).
Long flat screwdriver or pry bar or thin but strong bar - when you replace the tensioner the spring and plunger that keep it tense will drop out, so when you fit a new tensioner you'll need to push the plunger back inside its hole. Easier with a friend to fit the tensioner while you push the plunger back.
Lots of percy wotsit and maybe a few new swear words
Fresh coolant.

Have you considered replacing the aux belt auto tensioner while you're at it? Chances are if it's not been done recently the needle bearings have collapsed and the lower eye of the spring behind the hydraulic pump has fallen apart and is out of round.

[froggy]

Cheers Xac

[rory_perrett]

Crank pulley bolt can be a fight, better done with the engine up to temperature as that softens the thread loc. But as said, if you go steady the job is not that bad.

[jgra1]

rear upper cambelt cover bolt can be a pain.. mirror on a stick useful.. think it is normally a 5 or 6mm allen

[Xaccers]

rear upper cambelt cover bolt can be a pain.. mirror on a stick useful.. think it is normally a 5 or 6mm allen

11mm normal bolt if memory serves.

[rory_perrett]

Or is it 10mm, I have it in the back of my mind that a flex head 10mm ratched spanner is useful for something in that vacinity.

Rory

[lurchy666]

there is a how to on old-guys xantia page http://www.attfield.dircon.co.uk/xantia.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; 3rd link down on the left if it is any use to you.

[jgra1]

sorry I meant the allen key size 5 or 6mm

at least, mine was an allen bolt.. later TD..

[Xaccers]

Or is it 10mm, I have it in the back of my mind that a flex head 10mm ratched spanner is useful for something in that vacinity.

Rory

It's 11, the others are 10mm and that one is different to be extra awkward then


John, sounds like a previous garage replaced yours, an Allen bolt back there must be a nightmare!

[jgra1]

ahh that could explain a few things

once i knew that a spanner wouldnt fit a round thing it was bearable

[citronut]

im with Xac on that bolt also the two on the lower cover are 11MM, sometimes the top front bolt is one of the allan variety ,

im in the proses of a cam belt on my daughters Synergie, that bak bolt is a stud with a 11mm hex a third of the way down the threaded section,
this screws into the back of the engine through the cover, then a bracket welded to a metal water pipe hooks over the stud with an 11mm nut to hold thet,

the water pipe runs up the back of the belt cover from the water branch, and it right in the way of getting much onto the nut/stud, so you have to fiddle to loosen the nut then remove the pipe to gain access to undo the stud

and its only the XUD lump