Not a problem at the minute because I havent really started Just preparing.
1. I have hacksawed the old pipe off at the strut end.
2. I have carefully traced the pipe to the other end, and have hacksawed the pipe off at this end as well.
3. I have doused the remaining pipe unions at the strut and at the other end with oily smelling spray stuff from the agricultural engineers ("Plus Factor" to be precise)
4. I have removed the old pipe in two bits, and measured carefully the length (with a bootlace as it happens) added a bit extra for the pipe ends, and another bit for luck. Would you believe it? Turned out to be just over 1 metre and the precise length of the full bootlace.
5 I have had a pipe made up at what used to be a purely citroen specialist but is now emblazoned with German French Swedish etc. Still pipe was made up £16 quidish with the VAT.
Aplogies for the gratuitous use of Prince Charles as background.
I know there is a seal at the strut end but not sure if there is on at the other end. I will find out if and when the rusted union comes out. Does anyone know for sure?
6. I have ordered an 8mm, and 7mm hex socket (3/8 drive). I already know that the 8mm socket is unfortunately going to be redundant on these two rusted unions as will be the 8mm hex flare nut spanner whch I have.
Next steps.
My first attempt will be to try out the 7mm hex socket. I suspect this will fit on quite easily over each of the unions, but if neccessary I will hammer it on.
If the hex socket fails its time for the molegrips, squashed up really really tight.
If the mole grips fail Its time to call the cavalry.
regards Neil
Xantia-Suspension Pipe Renewal
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Xantia-Suspension Pipe Renewal
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Re: Xantia-Suspension Pipe Renewal
Yes, there'll be a seal inside both the unions hollow flare nut (bolts really!).
A pure hex socket will be the way forward as moleys never really work and just
round the head. A stud extractor is a better route if there's access.
I have one of these for just this job:
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/32085198 ... sbar&cbt=y" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
kinda thing:
or this as it's smaller/neater:
Try tapping the nut repeatedly with a small chisel/screwdriver with the solution
of Plusgas rust eater/solvent as this will gently work the fluid into the thread.
A pure hex socket will be the way forward as moleys never really work and just
round the head. A stud extractor is a better route if there's access.
I have one of these for just this job:
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/32085198 ... sbar&cbt=y" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
kinda thing:
or this as it's smaller/neater:
Try tapping the nut repeatedly with a small chisel/screwdriver with the solution
of Plusgas rust eater/solvent as this will gently work the fluid into the thread.
Nothing moves you like a Citroën
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Re: Xantia-Suspension Pipe Renewal
Mike
You obviously have decoded and located where I got the pipe made up. Not sure if they are as purest french as they used to be I am sure the bloke answered the phone "Central Garage" ....... I like a bit of french, even if it is spoken with a geordie accent.
regards
Neil
You obviously have decoded and located where I got the pipe made up. Not sure if they are as purest french as they used to be I am sure the bloke answered the phone "Central Garage" ....... I like a bit of french, even if it is spoken with a geordie accent.
regards
Neil
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Andmcit Re:tools
I have had success with Mole grips at the strut end union before when it was completely rounded off.
The union at the strut end has a much better HEX on it than the other end. The other end has virtually no hex left and what is left could be rounded off with a fingernail. Looks like it may have been butchered before. There is a little bit of room for this union as it pokes out of the end, so a toollike the one you suggest could probably be applied.
Thanks
Neil
The union at the strut end has a much better HEX on it than the other end. The other end has virtually no hex left and what is left could be rounded off with a fingernail. Looks like it may have been butchered before. There is a little bit of room for this union as it pokes out of the end, so a toollike the one you suggest could probably be applied.
Thanks
Neil
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Re: Xantia-Suspension Pipe Renewal
I have had some success with moleish grips but find the danger with them is that they can crush the union and make it even more difficult to extract.
Plus-Gas, Patience and a hex socket seem to work well though.
Plus-Gas, Patience and a hex socket seem to work well though.
Re: Xantia-Suspension Pipe Renewal
What I omitted was tapping via a chisel / screwdriver using a small toffee hammerandmcit wrote:Try tapping the nut repeatedly with a small chisel/screwdriver with the solution
of Plusgas rust eater/solvent as this will gently work the fluid into the thread.
repeatedly not necessarily hard but enough to shock into the rusted union nut. It's one of
those jobs where Malcolm's Percywhatsit is needed but care is needed before you're forced
to Defcon 2 in hostilities!
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DEFCON 2-Had to look it up!
Its not quite the cuban missile crisis yet. I will try to prepare the ground with the dismantling spray and the odd tap with a toffee hammer over the next couple of days before I hammer the socket on and start the hostilities
Neil
Neil
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Job done-Tool kit used
Maybe it was the liberal soaking in oily smelling spray stuff and then leaving it for a few days, but the undoing of the rusted unions turned out to be pretty undramatic. The one at the strut end I just hammered the 7mm socket gently but fully on. It just undid easy.
Access to the other end was hampered by the exhaust pipe. The 8mm socket was a good enough fit despite the corroded union and again just undid easy. The gold coloured thing is a drain plug remover with one end sawn off and is an excellent tool where space is retricted. The flats on the body are 19mm and the square end is 1/2 inch. It has been used before for timing belt renewal, and removal of the middle bolt on the inlet manifold.
The new pipe has 10mm unions.
regards
Neil
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