I have a 95 Xantia with anti sink. Are the hydraulic pumps speed sensitive ie if I rev the engine should the STOP light go out quicker [?] The reason I ask is that reving mine seams to make no difference at all as to how quickly the system pressure is built up. The vehicle rises up quite rapidly when it starts to move. I was just wondering if the pressure relief valve that i believe is built into the pump needs reseating as i have seen it mention in other messages but not in great detail.
Any advice greatly received.
Steve [:D]
Hydraulic Pump
Moderator: RichardW
-
stevieboy1
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 10 Sep 2003, 03:20
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
-
Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
There is no relief valve for main system pressure that I'm aware of, there is one for the power steering section of the pump though.
Regulator faults have been known to burst the accumulator sphere, snap the drive belt and on one occasion I read about which burst the pump, so it would seem that there is nothing to relieve pressure or things like that couldn't happen.
Higher engine speed should bring pressure up quicker providing there are no faults like air being drawn in or oil starvation of the pump.
Double the speed should in theory halve the time to reach full pressure, unless there is some strange Citronism at work here[}:)]
Dave
Regulator faults have been known to burst the accumulator sphere, snap the drive belt and on one occasion I read about which burst the pump, so it would seem that there is nothing to relieve pressure or things like that couldn't happen.
Higher engine speed should bring pressure up quicker providing there are no faults like air being drawn in or oil starvation of the pump.
Double the speed should in theory halve the time to reach full pressure, unless there is some strange Citronism at work here[}:)]
Dave
Steve -
It's the non-return valve built into the regulator's sphere mount base.
This valve is known to be the cause of frequent ticking from the regulator - if nothing else seems to cure such a problem.
The leak would in any case be too small to influence the initial pressure build up from start.
The rule is :
If you have frequent ticking from the regulator - with engine idle & normal height - then it's most likely your accumulator sphere that's flat.
Frequent ticking is defined as ticking in the 0 - 30 seconds interval.
Longer ticking intervals is considered as good working system.
I would NOT touch that non-return valve - UNLESS it seems the last possibility to get longer ticking intervals.
The pressure relief valve is ONLY used for servicing the system - i.e. discharging any present pressure in the system. This valve is manually operated on a bolthead on the side of the regulator - and is NOT known to leak - unless it has been left opened after any service [:D]
It's the non-return valve built into the regulator's sphere mount base.
This valve is known to be the cause of frequent ticking from the regulator - if nothing else seems to cure such a problem.
The leak would in any case be too small to influence the initial pressure build up from start.
The rule is :
If you have frequent ticking from the regulator - with engine idle & normal height - then it's most likely your accumulator sphere that's flat.
Frequent ticking is defined as ticking in the 0 - 30 seconds interval.
Longer ticking intervals is considered as good working system.
I would NOT touch that non-return valve - UNLESS it seems the last possibility to get longer ticking intervals.
The pressure relief valve is ONLY used for servicing the system - i.e. discharging any present pressure in the system. This valve is manually operated on a bolthead on the side of the regulator - and is NOT known to leak - unless it has been left opened after any service [:D]
-
stevieboy1
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 10 Sep 2003, 03:20
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Thanks guys
I'm intending to change all the spheres soon anyway [8D]. The front is very soft like the shock absorber valves are worn [:0], the rear is hardish but not solid and the vehicle sinks when you try to start it - suspect anti sink [}:)]. So hopefully that lot and new lhm will have it prefect!! [:D]
Steve
I'm intending to change all the spheres soon anyway [8D]. The front is very soft like the shock absorber valves are worn [:0], the rear is hardish but not solid and the vehicle sinks when you try to start it - suspect anti sink [}:)]. So hopefully that lot and new lhm will have it prefect!! [:D]
Steve
A final important note Steve -
When you have to replace the antisink & suspension spheres - then have the engine idle - and wait for the height to stabilise.
At that point set your height controller to the LOW (-est) setting - and let car go down - untill you feel the vague clonk where the suspension is almost fully released. Then wait further some 2 minutes before you shut off the engine.
This ensures your antisink spheres are depressurised.
Now release the pressure on the regulator service screw.
When you have to replace the antisink & suspension spheres - then have the engine idle - and wait for the height to stabilise.
At that point set your height controller to the LOW (-est) setting - and let car go down - untill you feel the vague clonk where the suspension is almost fully released. Then wait further some 2 minutes before you shut off the engine.
This ensures your antisink spheres are depressurised.
Now release the pressure on the regulator service screw.