I am a new member and would really appreciate some help from citroen experts. I have a P reg Xantia 1.9 td estate, its great for my requirements and the dogs however there are 2 niggles.
Ths interior fan no longer runs, started not wanting to play a year ago, became intermittent, now will occassinally run on "A" setting without warning, on very cold mornings or when car has been left to cook in the sun.
Got an annoying wobble at 40mph had all the wheels checked and balanced problem still there, doesn't matter what gear or revs its just an annoying juddery feel which is gone by 50 mph.
Any help would be appreciated
Heater and wheel wobble
Moderator: RichardW
Hi gps -
On the blower problem first check fuse F20 in the fuse box.
As a matter of course simply try replace it - it may be corroded.
A couple of owners have experienced problems with a burnt connector on the blower motor - quite bothersome to access. Try use the search button on top/right on this forum.
The Xantia interior (or "inferior") fan circuit is feeded +12V directly off 1 of the contact sets on the ignition key switch - NO releay to protect this key switch contact set. Often this contact set in the ignition key switch is therefore burned out.
On the igntion switch assembly - it's the brown 2 pole connector with wires marked B83 & KK.
The wire marked B83 is feed to key contact set directly from battery.
The wire KK is feed FROM key switch to fusebox.
A simple check is to unplug this connector - then shortcircuit it.
If your inferior fan now is working faultlessly - you know it's the ignition key switch burned out.
If you have problems getting a new switch for your ignition key - then simply modify the circuit as follows :
The 2 wires B83 & KK are simply connected by a relay.
The relay coil in turn are then controlled by the wire marked AA from the 2pole grey connector on the ignition key switch. On the wire AA you have +12V only when ignition is on - so your inferior fan will still shut off removing the key.
The wobble may simply be a defective tyre.
Often (even new & expensive) tyres develops a bulb on the surface - which makes for an uneven running surface. Can be checked visually by lifting the wheel & turn it by hand.
With car on wheels & normal height - grap the top of the wheel - then try rock the car sidewards as hard as you can - on the wheel. Test on both front & rear. Any slack/wear in the suspension will show.
On the blower problem first check fuse F20 in the fuse box.
As a matter of course simply try replace it - it may be corroded.
A couple of owners have experienced problems with a burnt connector on the blower motor - quite bothersome to access. Try use the search button on top/right on this forum.
The Xantia interior (or "inferior") fan circuit is feeded +12V directly off 1 of the contact sets on the ignition key switch - NO releay to protect this key switch contact set. Often this contact set in the ignition key switch is therefore burned out.
On the igntion switch assembly - it's the brown 2 pole connector with wires marked B83 & KK.
The wire marked B83 is feed to key contact set directly from battery.
The wire KK is feed FROM key switch to fusebox.
A simple check is to unplug this connector - then shortcircuit it.
If your inferior fan now is working faultlessly - you know it's the ignition key switch burned out.
If you have problems getting a new switch for your ignition key - then simply modify the circuit as follows :
The 2 wires B83 & KK are simply connected by a relay.
The relay coil in turn are then controlled by the wire marked AA from the 2pole grey connector on the ignition key switch. On the wire AA you have +12V only when ignition is on - so your inferior fan will still shut off removing the key.
The wobble may simply be a defective tyre.
Often (even new & expensive) tyres develops a bulb on the surface - which makes for an uneven running surface. Can be checked visually by lifting the wheel & turn it by hand.
With car on wheels & normal height - grap the top of the wheel - then try rock the car sidewards as hard as you can - on the wheel. Test on both front & rear. Any slack/wear in the suspension will show.
Ok - allways interesting to learn about problem solutions [:)]
You may find this homepage at help - especially most of the electric schematics on Xantia are found here :
http://citroeny.cz/servis/servis.htm
You may find this homepage at help - especially most of the electric schematics on Xantia are found here :
http://citroeny.cz/servis/servis.htm
Just a thought - there was a thread the other day about a Xantia with alloy wheels and a balance problem. From what I remeber the problem was traced to the locking bolts which were lighter than the ordinary bolts. If this could apply to you try putting 2 lockers diagonally opposite on the back and plain bolts on the front and see if there is any difference.
Otherwise have a good look at the driveshafts, jack up a corner and turn the wheel, looking for stiffness etc. - even check the end hub nut for tightness.
jeremy
Otherwise have a good look at the driveshafts, jack up a corner and turn the wheel, looking for stiffness etc. - even check the end hub nut for tightness.
jeremy
gps -
Try your local Cit dealer - I don't think the switch itself is that expensive. A complete new ignition key barrel assembly is however rather expensive - but they can be supplied to fit your existing key.
Any thoughts on my suggestions on the relay modification ?
In any case taking off the current (Amps) load from the (new) switch will ensure this switch never again burns out. I simply believe this relay should have been fitted in the first place from factory. It's common knowledge that ignition switches burns out.
Try your local Cit dealer - I don't think the switch itself is that expensive. A complete new ignition key barrel assembly is however rather expensive - but they can be supplied to fit your existing key.
Any thoughts on my suggestions on the relay modification ?
In any case taking off the current (Amps) load from the (new) switch will ensure this switch never again burns out. I simply believe this relay should have been fitted in the first place from factory. It's common knowledge that ignition switches burns out.
Anders you are totally correct re the Heater and ignition switch.
Can you suggest a relay to use and fitting instructions please.
Vibration from the car at 40 mph goes at 50 mph.
Had all the wheels checked and balanced, no difference, used a new spare michelin tyre balanced replaced each wheel in turn, on car, no difference.
The vibration comes from the front of the car under acceleration its a wobbly vibration.
Are the drive shafts balanced?
Do engine or gearbox mounts cause this problem????
I ve checked all suspension joints obvious things and Iam now not getting anywhere...
Any Ideas?? Its done 122,000 miles...
Can you suggest a relay to use and fitting instructions please.
Vibration from the car at 40 mph goes at 50 mph.
Had all the wheels checked and balanced, no difference, used a new spare michelin tyre balanced replaced each wheel in turn, on car, no difference.
The vibration comes from the front of the car under acceleration its a wobbly vibration.
Are the drive shafts balanced?
Do engine or gearbox mounts cause this problem????
I ve checked all suspension joints obvious things and Iam now not getting anywhere...
Any Ideas?? Its done 122,000 miles...
gps -
I thought I was pretty much explaining the relay in first submission [:I]
- sorry if I did'nt made myself clear on this - the reason might be my education in electronics and take (too) many things for granted [:D]
A standard relay basically has 4 terminals :
1) contact set common
2) contact set wiper
3 + 4) control coil inputs.
A standard relay is not polarised in any way - meaning you don't have to be concerned about polarity of + & - connections.
The relay contact set is used to replace your ignition switch's contact set. The advantage is that a standard relay is cheap & easy to replace - while the ignition switch is expensive & usually a bugger to fiddle with.
Also the only current (Amperes) load you put into the igntion contact set - using a relay - is VERY small - since the relay coil control current is VERY small.
That's the whole idea prolonging the ignition key contact set's service life.
Collect these items before work :
1 ea. standard 4pole relay - marked at least 35Amps - as used for extra lamps, horns etc.
1 ea. blue crimp on 6mm eyelet connector
Small collection of nylon strips various sizes.
Either (recommanded !) :
1 ea. standard ready wired relay socket.
4 ea. yellow crimp on pigtale connector (2 open ends)
Or (fiddly !) :
2 ea. yellow crimp on female spade connectors
2 ea. blue crimp on female spade connectors
2 ea. yellow crimp on pigtale connector (2 open ends)
Some lenght (2m) of thin gauge wire - various colours to your convenience.
Before you start working - remove the minus (earth) connection from the battery pole. Be SURE you have the codes for your radio & antitheft device before this - since these will/may be reset removing battery power.
In your case you have the 2 wires in the BROWN connector on the ignition switch - marked B83 & KK.
1) Cut the wire marked B83 - leaving some 4-5 inches of wire on the ignition switch connector.
Then connect this wire directly to the contact set common terminal on the relay.
From this same point on the relay - connect a thin gauge wire (insert together with wire above) which should connect to the original B83 wire on the ignition switch.
2) Now cut the wire marked KK on the ignition switch - again leaving some 4-5 inches of wire on the ignition switch connector.
Connect this wire directly to the contact set wiper terminal on the relay.
3) Connect a thin gauge wire from one of the control coil terminals on the relay - running to the orignal KK wire on the ignition switch.
4) Connect a thin gauge wire from the other control coil terminal on relay - running to chassis (earth) - any nearby chassis bolt/nut found.
The relay is fitted to any convenient solid structure using nylon straps. Be SURE the wiring can not shortcircuit against each other or any nearby cabling or chassis/earth member.
And of course : the mod & work is on your own responsibilty [;)]
Scared ? [B)] I hope not [:p]
Your wheel wobble could be a dry CV joint - check the drive axle's CV joint gaiters for cracks & grease leaks.
I thought I was pretty much explaining the relay in first submission [:I]
- sorry if I did'nt made myself clear on this - the reason might be my education in electronics and take (too) many things for granted [:D]
A standard relay basically has 4 terminals :
1) contact set common
2) contact set wiper
3 + 4) control coil inputs.
A standard relay is not polarised in any way - meaning you don't have to be concerned about polarity of + & - connections.
The relay contact set is used to replace your ignition switch's contact set. The advantage is that a standard relay is cheap & easy to replace - while the ignition switch is expensive & usually a bugger to fiddle with.
Also the only current (Amperes) load you put into the igntion contact set - using a relay - is VERY small - since the relay coil control current is VERY small.
That's the whole idea prolonging the ignition key contact set's service life.
Collect these items before work :
1 ea. standard 4pole relay - marked at least 35Amps - as used for extra lamps, horns etc.
1 ea. blue crimp on 6mm eyelet connector
Small collection of nylon strips various sizes.
Either (recommanded !) :
1 ea. standard ready wired relay socket.
4 ea. yellow crimp on pigtale connector (2 open ends)
Or (fiddly !) :
2 ea. yellow crimp on female spade connectors
2 ea. blue crimp on female spade connectors
2 ea. yellow crimp on pigtale connector (2 open ends)
Some lenght (2m) of thin gauge wire - various colours to your convenience.
Before you start working - remove the minus (earth) connection from the battery pole. Be SURE you have the codes for your radio & antitheft device before this - since these will/may be reset removing battery power.
In your case you have the 2 wires in the BROWN connector on the ignition switch - marked B83 & KK.
1) Cut the wire marked B83 - leaving some 4-5 inches of wire on the ignition switch connector.
Then connect this wire directly to the contact set common terminal on the relay.
From this same point on the relay - connect a thin gauge wire (insert together with wire above) which should connect to the original B83 wire on the ignition switch.
2) Now cut the wire marked KK on the ignition switch - again leaving some 4-5 inches of wire on the ignition switch connector.
Connect this wire directly to the contact set wiper terminal on the relay.
3) Connect a thin gauge wire from one of the control coil terminals on the relay - running to the orignal KK wire on the ignition switch.
4) Connect a thin gauge wire from the other control coil terminal on relay - running to chassis (earth) - any nearby chassis bolt/nut found.
The relay is fitted to any convenient solid structure using nylon straps. Be SURE the wiring can not shortcircuit against each other or any nearby cabling or chassis/earth member.
And of course : the mod & work is on your own responsibilty [;)]
Scared ? [B)] I hope not [:p]
Your wheel wobble could be a dry CV joint - check the drive axle's CV joint gaiters for cracks & grease leaks.