Xantia time belt

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tka
Posts: 18
Joined: 14 Oct 2002, 15:26
Location: Finland
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Xantia time belt

Post by tka »

Last June the time belt got broken and also 12 valves (2.0i-16v -96). :( Driven 180 tkm and time belt was changed once. I had a knowledge time belt should be replaced every 120 tkm (I thought it to change at 200 tkm for sure but...) but nowadays it is 80 tkm and checking 40 tkm. The reason for time belt broke was the water pump. It's bearing got loose and you know the rest. Does anybody know when the replacing period has drop to 80 tkm? In my opinion the water pump should NEVER be placed to time belt because I bet the water pump bearings are not calculated so long life than other parts and so it will have a big risk for damage as mine.
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alan s
RIP 2010
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Post by alan s »

Tero,
Read the comments on this link below as I feel it should answer your questions.
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=3961
Regards,
Alan S
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

I allways rid the water pump, tensioner roller and idler roller at the second belt change, regardless of apparent condition.
Changed them all about three weeks ago now and the water pump had allready developed some play, that was at 108k miles.
Dave
tka
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Location: Finland
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Post by tka »

Water pump and all other stuff were all changed when the time belt was changed the first time. The point was that was the Xantia time belt change period originally 120 tkm like the Haynes says? It is very stupid to promise like that and afterwards change the period to 80 tkm. In my opinion the water pump on the time belt is very stupid idea... or if it is in the time belt so the engine should not damage if belt gets broken... the timing chain would work much better like in old times and also in some new cars like BMW.
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Timing chains produce their own problems in that they wear and stretch and get noist as well as having covers that leak. For a superbly engineered set of valve gear have a look at the old jaguar XK engine layout although there were some minor changes with the advent of hydraulic tensioners etc. This setup was designed during WW2 and was about the first satisfactory double overhead camshaft setup that worked well and was reliable. Jaguar who were very small and more known for styling than engineering set themselves very high standards for longevity and produced an engine which did the job. This engine introduced us to the shims under cam followers as used in BX's and many overhead camshaft engines to this day and the engine was about the most powerful of modest size (originally 3.4 litres) for many years. Not only was it powerful and durable but looked good with 2 polished camshafts but also all the inlet, water manifold and chain chest was polished and the exhaust manifolds were stove enamelled.
A nice one is still a work of art to look at!
This engine had a 2 stage drive with a duplex chain on both. However the chains still needed adjusting to get rid of a 'tingling' noise and there was an eccentric arangement that could be rotated by removing a cover that tensioned the drive by moving the wheel between the head and block chains. I had 2 of these cars and had to tension both.
Perhaps a better solution would be a hydraulic arrangement operated by computer in the way that modern diesel injectors are. This would allow variable valve timing without any complicated engineering and would mean that there was no set up etc. It would also allow manufacturers to reduce engine length by about 2 inches . .
Somebody is now going to tell me how formula 1 do it. I believe some of them use a pneumatic or similar arrangement.
Jeremy
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