fitting xantia HDI exhaust

[harryp]

Hello all,
Had the exhaust break on my 110 HDI just in front of the cat. Has anyone replaced a complete system? I have released the rear box which is ok. My problem is that I cannot remove the 2 spring loaded nuts/bolts on the turbo connector. There seems to be no way to gain access from below.....
Dear old Haynes shows a pic of the arrangement but I cannot even see mine from above! From beneath I can get a 10mm socket on one side but the nut is spinning the bolt and I have no idea how to get a spanner onto it. I cannot get anything on the other nut! Not only that, but when the new pipe is in place, it looks as if it will prevent any access at all. BTW, I bought a new system for £99 delivered. Was looking for some rubber seals for 3.5mm pipe (for when I clean the height correctors - what a good site this is) and rang the dealers first! they wanted over £1.75 ea - got a packet of 10 for £2.32 from a 2CV specialist, and then came the incredulous moment - I asked what the front exhaust would cost. I had to ask him to repeat it - £1203.99!!! and you add fitting to that. Thank goodness for the 'net.
Any help at all regarding removing/fitting the exhaust would be VERY gratefully received.
Kind regards,
Harry

[Xaccers]

The nuts are on studs that go up inside the springs, with 10mm heads slightly recessed.
I've got a ratchet with a floppy head that I fitted a 10mm socket to lock the stud in place, then another 10mm socket to undo the nuts.
Access, as you say, is not great, unless you're an octopus.

[Lighty]

You need one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snap-Socket-H ... 500wt_1346" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The origional cats are very well made with a high content of precious metal, so dont throw it away, its probably worth more than the new system you bought.
Just compare weight with the old and new, and remember if it is the origional it has lasted a lot of years, you get what you pay for .

[RichardW]

It's not a lot of fun, but it is possible: HDi 110 Exhaust There is room to get a spanner on the back nut, and then several extensions, preferably with wobble bars is needed to get past the cat on the bottom nut. Whatever you do, don't cut the bolts off unless you absolutely have to - there isn't enough room to get the stub out, and sawing it off is almost impossible I can tell you how if you need to know....

The original pipe is probably salvageable if you have access to a welder - mine had just broken at the cat weld. The pipe is actually stainless, and the back part lasted to about 120k - front part is still original, with the added weld / patches described in that thread. Make sure you've got the right pipe - the 110 uses a larger bore, and the pipe from lesser versions won't fit.

[harryp]

Xac, Lightly, RichardW,
Many thanks for your swift responses. I will try again - can't get socket to the lower/o/s nut due to bodywork and can't get a spanner near it. Is there anything I have to remove to gain access to the studs from above to lock them? New exhaust just arrived - my word, what a difference in weight, as you say. The old one has fractured at the front of the cat (as you knew it would!) and the rear dished flange has corroded. It is/was a one piece system and bears the date 08/00. Cracking good life, but can't see the new one doing 11 and a half years!
Thanks again gentleman
Regards,
Harry

[Xaccers]

A chopped off 10mm crank ring spanner might help, so you can fit it to the stud head and it's arm should lock it in place as you undo the nuts.
I'm sure I used a couple of extension bars linked together to get at one of the nuts, but again, this was on a 1.9 so may not be possible on the 110

[harryp]

Thanks Xac - will post how it goes - Gurss it's a case of no pain no gain... huh!
Regards, Harry

[rory_perrett]

Did this job on Sunday. For the near side one you can get a spanner in from underneath (once the undertray - if fitted - has been removed) For the off side one it was a 2 man job with one getting a hand down the back of the engine to get the ring end of a combination on the head while the other undid the nut underneath, Small 1/4 drive socket on long extension bar. I did this on my own a couple of years ago but cannot remember how I did it.

Pattern replacements are about £80 on Ebay £500 + from Citroen for the real thing. However I just weld them up and shove them back on.

[harryp]

Hi Rory,
Previous reply seems not to have gone in? Only just stopped raining here (16:00) and as am on gravel drive have put off any work till tomorrow when the met office says it will be dry One thing, how do you get to the top of the bolts? Cannot see them from under the bonnet, so do you access these from underneath too? Must get some "fitters fingers", 9" X 1/4" double jointed and ditto thumbs X2!
Regards, Harry

[rory_perrett]

Harry

May have slightly mis-led. If you take the plastic cover off the engine you can get your arm down the back of the engine and feel the head of the off side bolt and get a ring end of a spanner on it to stop it turning. Then an assistant (daughters' boyfriends can have their uses) can get underneath the car and undo the nut. Possibly another tip when you get round to refitting, I found I had to add 4 packing washers to get enough compression on the spring to hold the exhaust tight enough against the manifold before the dished washer hit the shoulder on the bolt. Washers on first, then spring, then cup washer and finally the nut.

Best of luck.

Rory

[harryp]

Rory et al,
Had to admit defeat and booked car into garage late pm. Just could not gain sufficient access without a pit or some (high?) ramps.
Guess what, the exhaust supplied as "definitely listed for the 110" was a two piece for a 90....., and what a pain sourcing the correct one. I have my fingers crossed that this (one piece) is the correct fitting - it's half as much again and the delivery is £50 plus vat, almost £200 in total, so will keep the old and weld if I can obtain a short section to fit to the rear box to replace the flange - any offers?!
Thank you again all for the advice. Very much appreciated.
Regards to all
Harry

[RichardW]

Harry

There is a repair pipe available for this car - it's only about £30 - runs from the straight section after the car round the dog leg to the back box. Got one fitted on mine now - it's not too bad to fit - cut the pipe in situ, compared to getting the turbo connection off!

Note early 110s did use a 2-piece exhaust, but I think it is different to the 90 version.

[harryp]

RichardW,
Thanks for that. Will investigate later and look to repairing old unit together with the recommended reinforcing strap! What's best to use for welding? mig, gas - I hesitate to say stick as I found it impractical on thin sections - ok on 5-10mm!

[RichardW]

Welded mine with a MIG - cos that's what I've got! MIG, TIG, Gas, Stick, any will do - the pipe is pretty thick!

[rory_perrett]

I've seen the one piece exhaust cheaper than the front half of the two piece. My Hdi had a one piece one on it when I got it. When that started to blow a couple of years ago I put the two peice exhaust from the 2.1 I had scrapped on it. Last week the front pipe sheared on the bend just above the subframe so the two piece came off and the (now welded up) one peice went back on.

I've had a stick welder for about 30 years had have managed to weld up some fairly thin and rusty exhaust with it over the years. Finally splashed out on a mig a couple of years ago it is 10 times easier with mig than stick. Anyway two piece exhaust is welded up and in stock ready for next time.

Rory