R/O/S brake pipe

[KennyW]

Hi guys,

Here's the story so far, replacement discs and pads on no problems
2 brake pipes made up by David Hallworth with much thanks
Came to fitting time and all 3 pipes seized solid into 3 way connector( they had been soaked liberally for a week in penetrating fluid).
It looks like I will have to change 3 way connector and get a new pipe from ABS to connector. Checked the prices on citroen services and £37.15 in total for both.

Kenny

[citronut]

did you try warming the conector up with a blow torch,

regards malcolm

[CitroJim]

did you try warming the conector up with a blow torch,

Be careful though. LHM is pretty inflammable stuff and burns a treat...

Howe do I know? Doing the same thing on an Activa...

The resulting fire under the wheelarch was pretty spectacular

[citronut]

did you try warming the conector up with a blow torch,

Be careful though. LHM is pretty inflammable stuff and burns a treat...

Howe do I know? Doing the same thing on an Activa...

The resulting fire under the wheelarch was pretty spectacular

yep bin there done that its like a little flame thrower

regards malcolm

[KennyW]

HI Guys,

Just going to replace both and the pipes at the rear will be all new. I am going to spray them with Molybdenum grease which will cover and protect the joints for future removal.

Did not use heat for fire reasons had similar experience in the past

Kenny

[citronut]

ok but if using heat and there are no open/cut off pipes it is safe, as long as you only gently heat the union/s,
or if there are open ends/pipes and you are aware of the risk this is fine also

regards malcolm

[KennyW]

Malcolm,

I've decided to replace the 3 way connector and with 3 new pipes fitted it will be as good as new.

I had an open pipe nearby which is the reason I did not use heat.

Does anyone know how to release the plastic covers protecting the pipework run under the Xantia's

Kenny

[addo]

Yes, but jiggered if I can remember precisely right now! Try gently prising away; if it's below 15° or so, maybe warm them with a hairdryer or similar to avoid breaking the tangs.

[CitroJim]

Kenny, they are tabs and form a sort of 'V' or 'W' over the pipe. You need a parallel twin bladed tool to push up and push the tabs apart to release the pipe.

[KennyW]

Thanks jim

[KennyW]

Well Guys done the 3 pipes and what a pain in the proverbial the long pipe from the ABS block was. It was fiddly and tight in the engine down to the chassis after that it wasn't to bad.

The 2 rear brake pipes were a daudle compared to the above.

However the bleed screws are securely insitu and will need drilling out to complete the job.

What size are these because the nut is too small for my 1/4 ratchet and mole grips just about sheared the head off.
Can they be replace with a bigger bleed screw
Kenny

[CitroJim]

Kenny, is that the bleed nipples on the calipers?

If so, they're a bit special and longer than conventional ones if I recall correctly.

I'd be on the look-out for a replacement set I think but if you must use the existing calipers I'd be tempted to make up some adaptors like this one I made for a Pug 205 caliper. It takes a 6mm bleed nipple.



Then you can drill out the old nipple and rethread the hole to take the adaptor. They're easy to knock up on a lathe from a bit of brass or even aluminium...

[KennyW]

Yes Jim the rear calipers,

I was intending to drill them out, rethread with a larger size and use new bleed screws/nipples(M8 x 125).

Replacements cost £2.99 from the dealer.

I can get bleed nipples M6 x 1mm thread which fit Audi/VW @12.60 for 25 length is unknown.

There M8 x1.25 thread at the same price again length u/k.

The question is will this work

Kenny

[citronut]

the only thing i would be concerned about is damage to the nipple seat with the drill bit in the alloy caliper, because if you damage that you might have prob's sealing the replacement,

regards malcolm

[KennyW]

Thanks for the reply Malcolm,

Do you or anybody else think by using one of the LHM seals cut down or 'O' ring seal may work.

I would use a drill slightly smaller than the tap ie 7mm or 7.5mm for a M8 x1.25 tap.

Thoughts and suggestions please.

Kenny