On the CX, the rear window heater element connector on one side is broken off. How can it be reattached?
I've been advised against soldering as the localised heat could smash the safety glass.
electrical connection.
Moderator: RichardW
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aerodynamica
- Donor 2023
- Posts: 1300
- Joined: 26 Dec 2007, 18:10
- Location: Glasgow
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- My Cars: 2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD VSX Mk1 Sinker A.K.A Slugmobile 13'
'Old Katy'
previous convictions: totaling 52litres of LHM in one go:
1968 ID19B 'Old Polly' Stellar white
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker Silver
1992 XM 2.0 SEi Turbo Manual Anthracite Grey
1982 CX 20 Pallas 'Old Goldy'
1993 XM 2.1 SD Auto Light blue
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker light Blue
1982 BX 16 TRS 'Cyril' Vallelunga Red
1995 Xantia 1.9 D SX Auto Dark green
1977 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Aphrodite' Regatta Blue
1982 GSA Pallas SE Silver Pearl
1980 CX 2000 Reflex Vallelunga Red
1978 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Prometheus' Midnight blue
1984 BX 14E 'Cecil the slugmobile' Maroon
1987 Fiat Panda 'the mighty panda' - x 98
electrical connection.
Graeme M
2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer 2.0 HDi
2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer 2.0 HDi
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Old-Guy
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Re: electrical connection.
What a pig! 
It being a CX you can't just go and find a sound glass in a scrappy, so I think you have 2 problems: 1. fix the connector to the glass, and 2. repair the electrical connection to the heater element. I would try glass repair super-glue for 1 (possibly embedding the connector in a pad of Araldite to create a larger surface area to bond to the glass. To make the connection, I'd use silver-loaded paint, building up a decent thickness of it with a generous overlap of the broken ends (well cleaned of insulating coating).
Years ago, I successfully repaired the HRW on a Volvo estate after a piece of 'cargo' sliced through several 'lines' of the element.
Best of luck
It being a CX you can't just go and find a sound glass in a scrappy, so I think you have 2 problems: 1. fix the connector to the glass, and 2. repair the electrical connection to the heater element. I would try glass repair super-glue for 1 (possibly embedding the connector in a pad of Araldite to create a larger surface area to bond to the glass. To make the connection, I'd use silver-loaded paint, building up a decent thickness of it with a generous overlap of the broken ends (well cleaned of insulating coating).
Years ago, I successfully repaired the HRW on a Volvo estate after a piece of 'cargo' sliced through several 'lines' of the element.
Best of luck
2011 Grand C4 Picasso VTR+ 1.6HDi in Kyanos Blue
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
-
aerodynamica
- Donor 2023
- Posts: 1300
- Joined: 26 Dec 2007, 18:10
- Location: Glasgow
- Lexia Available: Yes
- My Cars: 2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD VSX Mk1 Sinker A.K.A Slugmobile 13'
'Old Katy'
previous convictions: totaling 52litres of LHM in one go:
1968 ID19B 'Old Polly' Stellar white
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker Silver
1992 XM 2.0 SEi Turbo Manual Anthracite Grey
1982 CX 20 Pallas 'Old Goldy'
1993 XM 2.1 SD Auto Light blue
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker light Blue
1982 BX 16 TRS 'Cyril' Vallelunga Red
1995 Xantia 1.9 D SX Auto Dark green
1977 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Aphrodite' Regatta Blue
1982 GSA Pallas SE Silver Pearl
1980 CX 2000 Reflex Vallelunga Red
1978 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Prometheus' Midnight blue
1984 BX 14E 'Cecil the slugmobile' Maroon
1987 Fiat Panda 'the mighty panda' - x 98
Re: electrical connection.
Haha this IS the replacement window! I think the second problem of electrical connection can be solved but the actual sticking the thing back on properly is an issue.
Graeme M
2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer 2.0 HDi
2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer 2.0 HDi
Re: electrical connection.
Counter-intuitively, conductive paint has a lower resistance when applied thinly.
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addo
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Only problem with that, is the contact stub has to carry a few amps...
I'd suggest this approach:
1. Solder a "leg" of clean flat brass to the connector lug, that can be manipulated to contact in the original track feed area - ie; the wide point near the lug.
2. Bond the tag back on with Loctite rearview mirror glue kit (probably £3.99 or so).
3. Use conductive epoxy from Farknells to complete the circuit - it needs at least a day to go off, maybe more in cold weather.
I'd suggest this approach:
1. Solder a "leg" of clean flat brass to the connector lug, that can be manipulated to contact in the original track feed area - ie; the wide point near the lug.
2. Bond the tag back on with Loctite rearview mirror glue kit (probably £3.99 or so).
3. Use conductive epoxy from Farknells to complete the circuit - it needs at least a day to go off, maybe more in cold weather.