Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

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Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by CitroenCrazy »

Hi
I know the whole Xantia heater matrix question has been dealt with several times.........but I have one tiny query.

It's just become apparent why the previous owner chose to divest herself of what is otherwise a nice Exclusive estate, that waft of anti-freeze tells all.

My question is this - is there only one factory that produces these things ? (Presumably Valeo ?)

I suppose I'm asking myself whether there's any difference between the local dealer &, say, GSF, apart from the mark-up.
Given the difficulty of the task, I'd rather get the best replacement, than risk a sub standard unit that won't last the 10 years the original one did.

Thanks

Andrew

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Re: Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by citronut »

i have just done one for a customer,
i bought the MATRIX from GSF who when i enquired they said if i dont buy a can of stop leak and coolant flush at the same time it would void the warenty,

seems strange to me why you should need a stop leak if you are repairingit in the first place,
unless they dont have any faith in the MATRIX/brand they sell,
it wasnt a VALEO MATRIX not sure what brand without looking at the box this afternoon,

regards malcolm
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Re: Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by Lighty »

Nissen do replacement, but I have found it a bit dodgy on the hose connections, ie dont fit. There is a buletin about fitting the valeo ones, it seems that an electolytic reaction happens between the corrosion particles and the swirl rods down the tubes. (something like that). Anyway that is why you must flush the system and add a conditioner like the Forte one we use.
I have heard of them failing in less than a year, someone told me they fir Citroen o.e ones (these are valeo) because Citroen then warrant it for 12 months. dont know if this is true though.
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Re: Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by CitroJim »

Never had a problem with GSF ones. Have had a problem with ones supplied by one of their competitors; them who are named after a near continent you might say..

Just like Lighty's Nissins ones, the elbow connector was a poor fit and in one case I had to take a junior hacksaw to the stubs and shorten them a tad...

One piece of advice is to check the elbow fits the new matrix before you fit it...
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Re: Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by Ozzie Kuma »

I just put in a Nissin & it fit beautifully, the matrix that is not the dash replacement,.. if you do do it, it is fun (NOT), I would suggest you remove the 2nd locating blot ( the one sticking out from the blower unit with the fibre washer as CitroJim discribes it) which is on the off side of the car behind all the hydraulic pipery,.. NOT fun either... reason,.. I didn't & paid the price,.. in pulling the unit away enough to get the matrix in & bent stuff & it would not go back . eventually broke the locating bolt off trying to reposition it & the flow on effect was everything is out , just a little.... just enough to make bolts miss holes etc..
It is all back together now & all working

However .. the pipes on the engine side leak ?? Quick question to all, I assume this is a bleeder ( see photo) do I have to bleed the system to balance pressure or something so it does not leak or what cold be causing the leak now ?? ( yes the two Orings are in place between matrix & engine bay pipes & no it is not leaking in the car.)
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Re: Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by Lighty »

I would say most likely that you have a small crack in those elbow areas, the tyre valve looking bleeder cap could be the cause though, so I would replace it with a new one. Not all tyre valve caps are suitable replacements, as the seals differ quite a lot. Probably best to get one from Citroen just to be sure.
To check it, you really need a pressure tester so you can watch carefully without the engine running, the leak should soon become apparent. Seriously doubt it will be any pressure difference due to lack of bleeding.
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Re: Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by CitroJim »

Ozzy, just a quick reply before I go to work...

There was no need to go for the mounting bolt behind the LHM reservoir. You can split the heater box in half inside the car by undoing two goldy coloured bolts top and bottom that hold the half containing the blower and evaporator and the other half containing the flaps and matrix together. Doing this also obviates any risk to damage to the condensate drain.

After refilling the cooling system the valve cap on the matrix elbow has to be opened to expel air. It can dribble like crazy and show the kind of leak you have. Other causes are a twisted O ring. My method is to grease them up with Vaseline and slip them on the elbow connector stubs. Then insert the stubs and push hard until the whole shebang clicks home. The click is vital as for a while the connector will stay in place before the click but will weep a little.

Else that, sadly, there's a small crack in the elbow. Basically, the ends of the elbows have barbed spigots onto which the rubber hoses push and then the collar assembly is pulled up over the hoses to hold them tight on the spigots.

Because the elbow often needs such a tug to separate it and the plastic is so brittle it's not at all hard to damage it.

If that's the case, best to get an elbow from any other Citroen (they're quite universal) along with stubs of pipe and then use 19mm barrel joints to splice it into your original heater hoses.
Jim

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Post by addo »

If that's the elbow I removed, it would have been done without damage. OK watched while I scorched myself lying across his engine to remove it...

More likely is a slightly malpositioned O-ring (had this on occasion); a little rubber grease or vasso on reassembly plus correct pre-positioning of the seals, makes all the difference.
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Re: Xantia heater matrix (sorry, not again!)

Post by citronut »

on the one i did a couple of weeks ago i could not get the elbow/s to budge, so i threaded a long length of electrical flex through the crutch between the two elbows, then wedged a long rhin screw driver between the clip just to hold it in the unlocked postion, then with the wire across the top of the engine gave it a good tug to pull the elbows free, this worked a treat and a lot easier than trying to release them with both hands down the back of the engine,

regards malcolm
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