Also a good AL4 rebuild photos article here http://my206xr.blogspot.com/2010/06/al4 ... block.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; .
Obviously someone not afraid to dismantle a box, I just spoke to my local garage and they can change the solenoids for me no problem.
Xsara 1.6 petrol auto - to buy or not to buy
Moderator: RichardW
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Re: Xsara 1.6 petrol auto - to buy or not to buy
You must be the change you want to see in the world - Mahatma Gandhi
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives
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- Sara Watson's Stalker
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Which begs the question of why they didn't suggest it earlier for your Renault! The reason I do so much of my own mechanical work is, so many garages are questionable. The $6000-odd outlay has steadily been paying itself off.
You can download the updated software in advance of a solenoid swap; it won't make it worse but means the car is fully driveable straight after. I've also seen people ("experts") get the fluid level totally wrong!
You can download the updated software in advance of a solenoid swap; it won't make it worse but means the car is fully driveable straight after. I've also seen people ("experts") get the fluid level totally wrong!
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Re: Xsara 1.6 petrol auto - to buy or not to buy
Just drove the car today and it was very pleasant all round, only problem - you guessed it - the gearbox.
Gearbox seemed a little harsh, not too bad but I could feel the changes.
From 2 to 3 there was a definite thump. I was only driving around the streets for 5 mins as that told me all I needed to know for now.
My wife (it will be her car) will want a drive anyway and I can try to make it misbehave if we decide to buy.
It has a towbar, was driven by main owner for 3 years (18k km), when he died his wife drove it for 4 years (17k km) then garaged for 3 years. All in all not ideal.
This was driving from a cold start, seemed better as it warmed up but.........
Any idea on the reason for harsh changes ? Normally fluid level but a pain to check.
I must admit Addo that I am always unsure about levels on this sort of box, seems that is the way now. I am not sure what was wrong with a dipstick level test when at normal temperature. At least it was easily checked once a week, rather than the full on performance to check these levels, just a mismanaged level waiting to happen.
Having had the Merc fully serviced and failing I am joining you in doing all my own work in future. I used to do this but stopped, but if garages can't get it right I may as well take a shot myself.
Is there a year when the dodgy solenoids were replaced by proper ones, perhaps I could up the cash and buy a newer model ?
Or any older models with no electronics and a dipstick, these is a 1998 Saxo locally which should have a 3speed box but too basic for my wife I think, but I would buy it.
Gearbox seemed a little harsh, not too bad but I could feel the changes.
From 2 to 3 there was a definite thump. I was only driving around the streets for 5 mins as that told me all I needed to know for now.
My wife (it will be her car) will want a drive anyway and I can try to make it misbehave if we decide to buy.
It has a towbar, was driven by main owner for 3 years (18k km), when he died his wife drove it for 4 years (17k km) then garaged for 3 years. All in all not ideal.
This was driving from a cold start, seemed better as it warmed up but.........
Any idea on the reason for harsh changes ? Normally fluid level but a pain to check.
I must admit Addo that I am always unsure about levels on this sort of box, seems that is the way now. I am not sure what was wrong with a dipstick level test when at normal temperature. At least it was easily checked once a week, rather than the full on performance to check these levels, just a mismanaged level waiting to happen.
Having had the Merc fully serviced and failing I am joining you in doing all my own work in future. I used to do this but stopped, but if garages can't get it right I may as well take a shot myself.
Is there a year when the dodgy solenoids were replaced by proper ones, perhaps I could up the cash and buy a newer model ?
Or any older models with no electronics and a dipstick, these is a 1998 Saxo locally which should have a 3speed box but too basic for my wife I think, but I would buy it.
You must be the change you want to see in the world - Mahatma Gandhi
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives
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- Sara Watson's Stalker
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Citroën Berlingo
Alfa 147 - x 93
By late 2003 (production, NOT date of registration) the autoboxes were sorted - I think last updates came out in 2005 for the software.
Fluid level is easy enough to check, you will probably find it wrong though. I haven't tried but reckon a squeezy bottle with tube could be poked up the level tube for minor top-ups if low.
Fluid level is easy enough to check, you will probably find it wrong though. I haven't tried but reckon a squeezy bottle with tube could be poked up the level tube for minor top-ups if low.
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Re: Xsara 1.6 petrol auto - to buy or not to buy
Thanks on the dates, good to know so I can look for a newer model, maybe ??
I did add fluid to our old Renault via a plug at the top, near the gear change on the box, but that doesn't help the level check though. I thought about it a bit and decided they made the test temp lower than the operating temp on purpose, in th good old days you just ran up to working temp and checked the level. Now it is a specific temp so if you miss it then level will be too low or too high.
I will probably let my wife drive the car but I did mention the notchy box and she said forget it then. Worth one more look but apart from nice interior not much to recommend it, low mpg and potential box problems. May go back to a C3 ?
I did add fluid to our old Renault via a plug at the top, near the gear change on the box, but that doesn't help the level check though. I thought about it a bit and decided they made the test temp lower than the operating temp on purpose, in th good old days you just ran up to working temp and checked the level. Now it is a specific temp so if you miss it then level will be too low or too high.
I will probably let my wife drive the car but I did mention the notchy box and she said forget it then. Worth one more look but apart from nice interior not much to recommend it, low mpg and potential box problems. May go back to a C3 ?
You must be the change you want to see in the world - Mahatma Gandhi
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives
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- Sara Watson's Stalker
- Posts: 7098
- Joined: 19 Aug 2008, 12:38
- Location: NEW South Wales, Australia. I'll show you "Far, far away" ;-)
- My Cars: Peugeot 605
Citroën Berlingo
Alfa 147 - x 93
I don't think temperature is too critical. Here's my opinion on why:
The fluid needs to be warm enough it flows properly. That means, somewhere above 40°C or so. Thus you have the minimum level test temperature. If it is too cold, too much will be slow in draining back to the sump and therefore you will potentially overfill.
Once it gets far hotter (say 90°C) it doesn't expand enormously - we aren't making popcorn - but represents a burn risk to the mechanic. Hence we have a lower temperature as the maximum test temp. It's just like how they tell you to wait for engine cooling before depressurising the radiator cap...
The Xsara of choice to me, is a pre-facelift with the 16V 2.0 and five speeder. No Comm2000, no BSI failures, no autobox.
The fluid needs to be warm enough it flows properly. That means, somewhere above 40°C or so. Thus you have the minimum level test temperature. If it is too cold, too much will be slow in draining back to the sump and therefore you will potentially overfill.
Once it gets far hotter (say 90°C) it doesn't expand enormously - we aren't making popcorn - but represents a burn risk to the mechanic. Hence we have a lower temperature as the maximum test temp. It's just like how they tell you to wait for engine cooling before depressurising the radiator cap...
The Xsara of choice to me, is a pre-facelift with the 16V 2.0 and five speeder. No Comm2000, no BSI failures, no autobox.
Re: Xsara 1.6 petrol auto - to buy or not to buy
A rough AL4 level check at cold is to look into the filler.
If the maze is dry, it’s low.
If it’s sitting in the oil, there’s enough.
If the maze is dry, it’s low.
If it’s sitting in the oil, there’s enough.
2002 C5 2.0i AL4 230,000 km 76372389
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Re: Xsara 1.6 petrol auto - to buy or not to buy
Finally took 'er indoors to drive the car and it failed the test, did get her outdoors for a while though.
When I drove it last week a bit of a thump from 2 to 3 but I was willing to let it go as it was first change from cold so maybe ok. When my wife drove went thump on the return journey, so warmed up. So that was that, could just be low fluid but too late now.
I can live with a car developing problems over time, but not keen on buying one with problems especially when related to a known gearbox problem.
All down to lack of maintenance I reckon (despite only 20k miles) as same timing belt for 10 years and so I doubt anybody checked / changed the gearbox oil either. No reciepts for anything, and they always keep such things here.
When I drove it last week a bit of a thump from 2 to 3 but I was willing to let it go as it was first change from cold so maybe ok. When my wife drove went thump on the return journey, so warmed up. So that was that, could just be low fluid but too late now.
I can live with a car developing problems over time, but not keen on buying one with problems especially when related to a known gearbox problem.
All down to lack of maintenance I reckon (despite only 20k miles) as same timing belt for 10 years and so I doubt anybody checked / changed the gearbox oil either. No reciepts for anything, and they always keep such things here.
You must be the change you want to see in the world - Mahatma Gandhi
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives
Xantia HDI 90SX C3 2005 and C3 2006 both 1.4i sensodrives