ANY TIPS ON BLEEDING BRAKES XANTIA PLEASE :)

[Harry1975]

I have a 1.8 16v Xantia N reg .which I love to drive.I find her easy to work on, dont know what all this fuss about French cars hard to work on comes from ??? Ive done most jobs that need doing with an old car like mine, she's almost new with all the parts and work ive done on her But the only thing I have not done is bleed the breaks.Ive done it loads of time on other cars, I have fond memories with my dad as a kid sat in car ,and him go PRESS HOLD RELEASE Anyway if there are any pointers or tips anyone could pass on to me please, I would be most grateful . LONG LIVE LA XANTIA ...........

[citroenxm]

Xantia brakes are one of the VERY FEW cars where its a ONE MAN JOB, or can be!

Its simple.. Put the car on top setting with the engine runnin, then Wedge a bar to apply the brakes ON and leave them ON, while the engine is running, Oh, have the appropiate road wheel removed, then with the brake pedal pressed and KEPT pressed simply open the bleed nipple on the caliper and watch the air expell and the fluid run clean!!

Tighten up the nipple, refit wheel, release brake lower car off Stand/Jack.

Paul

[Harry1975]

cool thanks Paul ,had no idea i could do it on my own, I have read some stuff about the peddle just being an on/off switch more than a plunger like normal car breaks, so what you say figures i have got to do all 4 breaks as im cleaning the system out of crap fluid plus Ive put new power steering pump in and front centre sphere in to stop the nodding and make it so i can drive straight off without having to wait for the lights to go out and get full pressure So do i need to release breaks between bleeding each break or leave it on while i do all of them ? Plus is there any order I should be doing them in like front to back etc ?
Thanks again
Harry

[citroenxm]

I release it each wheel..

I HOPE you have NOT put Power steering FLuid in!! You NEED importantly to put LHM Mineral Oil Fluid ONLY in the Xantia!!

Do one at a time so that the suspension wil pressure up and have the car on top...

About half an hour for all four... I think.. I dont think theres a particular order as Xantia Brakes are strongly biesed to the FRONT and the rears only really work harder when theres weight in the boot... if the boot is always empty then they can sieze easilly. Id do the front PAIR first then the rear pair after,

Providing the bleed nipple are not rusted or rounded off..

Paul

[citroenxm]

Damm, just read your post again, you said you had fitted a Power steering PUMP, I thought it said you had out power steering fluid in... my eyes playing tricks on me tonight... sorry..

Paul

[citronut]

basicly the dosure valve is just a valve, the presure is there as soon as the hydraulic/power steering pump is spinning,

so all you foot is doing is oppening the valve to let the already presurised citro blood (LHM ) through,

useing Pauls method keep the pedel pressed continuously no up down up down up down up down up down required at all,

regards malcolm

[Harry1975]

THANK YOU Paul and Malcolm. no i have'nt used anything but LHM lol , but thanks for the caution anyway better pointed out than not . I have not put any in yet as ive stripped everything out of the car that need for the work im doing on her ( hub ball joins ,wishbone mounts boots, roll bar boots ,doing both sides as only 1 side gone best to to both at the same. 1 new Break caliper O/S .new Power steering pump( a steal at £17.50 on ebay with a 2year guarantee ) Caliper £50..center sphere £19.50 5lt LHM £18 and other parts good old GSF so just over £100, and no labour for doing the work thank god or it would be the scarp yard ! But I enjoy working on her she got 120000 on the clock but she runs well and quite fast and from what I hear the engines go on for quite a while ,so she will be on the road for a few more years yet

[Harry1975]

got carried away didnt finish lol ive stripped it all out but ive still got to put it all back as waiting on some T55 torx bits to come so I can take caliper mounts off so i can put hugs in a vise to take ball joints off. when thats done all back together and its then bleed time. so thanks for your help my friend, I always do my research before I do work, dont alot of learning the hard expensive way in the past

[Harry1975]

HUBS not Hugs ,silly me LMAO !
I do love my car but not that much !!!

[citronut]

why do you need to remove the calliper carriers to do the swivle joints??

regards malcolm

[Harry1975]

i will check, as car out my parent house so only going off memory, so much to do at once i maybe confused, if i can do without i shall, thanks

[citroenxm]

why do you need to remove the calliper carriers to do the swivle joints??

regards malcolm

Because - EVEN with the correct tool, which Ive NEVER got to work - the hubs are best off and in the vice for proper removal! Which Is the only way I can do them!

Along with enough heat aswell!

Paul

[CitroJim]

why do you need to remove the calliper carriers to do the swivle joints??

regards malcolm

Because - EVEN with the correct tool, which Ive NEVER got to work - the hubs are best off and in the vice for proper removal! Which Is the only way I can do them!

Along with enough heat aswell!

Paul

I quite concur....

[Harry1975]

yes gentleman , ive taken hubs off, and taking break caliper mounts off and discs , so i can clamp in vice nice and tight blow lamp at the ready, the only way to do a job is the right way, Im a carpenter by trade so I know theres no short cuts with some jobs. Thanks again Guys ,advice is always a good thing

[citronut]

i dont like the use of heat on the hub carrier as the heat can travle into the bearing and melt the grease,
them maybe months down the line you will be taking it all appart again to do a wheel bearing,

the proper tool works every time for me and without heat,

i find the N/S side swivle is quite easy in situe but the O/S can be a bit harder, as on releasing its thread it can pull the O/S inner driveshaft joint out of its cup,

you do need to fit the swivle pin nut back on tight over the tool to keep it into the slots on the swivle joint body,

regards malcolm