sphere changing guide

[romik]

Hi. Looking for either a video that or illustrative guide on changing spheres in Xantia HID. I was told it's not that complicated.

[Peter.N.]

Have a look on 'YouTube' I think there is something on there. Overall they are not difficult the main problem is not being able to unscrew them if they have been there for a long time, you need a hefty chain wrench or a specific tool, these were available on Ebay.

Peter

[CitroJim]

Not a video nor illustrative in the pictorial sense but very much so in the written word, this guide here should tell you all you need to know...

The biggest issues are very tight spheres but we have plenty advice for those... Just be careful when doing the rear corners and stick to how the guide says otherwise you can end up in a world of pain..

On the subject of pain, also note the essential safety precautions before attempting the job. Hydraulic Citroens can (and have) killed...

[romik]

Thank you. Is it advisable to replace all 6 spires at once or Ok to replace just faulty ones?

Also, do I need to lower it down when I park it over night?

Cheers!

[CitroJim]

It's strictly not necessary to replace all six if you can satisfactorily test them. Do do that you really need a sphere pressure tester. I find the old rule of thumb of bouncing corners and listening to regulator tick intervals for the accumulator sphere can be misleading and takes some experience to do.

One sphere that cannot be tested without a tester is the so-called anti-sink sphere. It's often overlooked and best replaced as a matter of course.

The main accumulator you can get a good idea of how it is by listening to the tick interval from the pressure regulator. Ticks should be at least 30s apart. If less then the accumulator is likely worn. Another test is to switch off and then immediately sit on the tailgate sill; the rear will go down under your weight and then if the accumulator is good the rear will then rise again to normal ride height after about 20 seconds or so. A good accumulator may do this twice.

Corner (suspension) spheres can bet tested by bouncing them with the engine running and at normal ride height. The rear should be distinctly soft and well damped. The front a little firmer but still reasonably soft and well damped. If distinctly hard or very bouncy then the spheres are past their best.

There's no substitute for a proper sphere tester but they're not altogether common...

EDIT: No need to lower when parking up unless the car is going to be laid up for some while. Doing that does increase sphere life...

[mirafioriman]

Interesting info about the accumulator sphere test. I'll try that one in the morning

Should it rise when you are still sitting there or do you have to get off?

[CitroJim]

Should it rise when you are still sitting there or do you have to get off?

If all is good it'll rise with you sitting there...

Likewise if you get off once it's risen back to normal it'll shoot up high and then if the accumulator is good it'll settle back down again to normal ride height...

[mirafioriman]

Thanks will report back tomorrow

[Northern_Mike]

Not a video nor illustrative in the pictorial sense but very much so in the written word, this guide here should tell you all you need to know...

The biggest issues are very tight spheres but we have plenty advice for those... Just be careful when doing the rear corners and stick to how the guide says otherwise you can end up in a world of pain..

On the subject of pain, also note the essential safety precautions before attempting the job. Hydraulic Citroëns can (and have) killed...

I followed the aforementioned guide and it worked perfectly,

As for Jim's note about safety - it's not quite direct enough. The rule is simple.

DO NOT get under a Hydraulic Citroen without it being properly supported on stands or if doing the rear corners, on ramps too. If it falls, it WILL kill you.

[Deanxm]

DO NOT get under a Hydraulic Citroën without it being properly supported on stands or if doing the rear corners, on ramps too. If it falls, it WILL kill you.

Its a mistake many cats only make once

D

[Northern_Mike]

We once bought a ratty - and I mean ratty, old GSA for it's engine and box to put in the Sidewinder. Thought it would be easier to store just half of it - literally, while we stripped it for bits. The decision was made to cut it in half just in front of the front seat mounts. Suspension on high, friend with grinder underneath... "what are these pipes for?" <cut, hiss, LHM everywhere... > Fortunately the back end was on ramps.... close call.

[mirafioriman]

Well I did the accumulator test this morning. Stopped the car, sat on the tailgate opening and all it did was sink! Not a sign of leveling up until I started it back up and let it run for a while......

I'm guessing that as I thought the accumulator is passed it.

[CitroJim]

I'm guessing that as I thought the accumulator is passed it.

What's your regulator tick interval?

It can be hard to hear on a diesel but if you listen carefully to the regulator you will hear it click off when it reaches pressure and then click on again when the regulator cuts in again - a bit like a thermostat.

Anything less then 30s means the accumulator might be a bit below par...

[mirafioriman]

It clicks all the time. When I opened the bleed screw on the regulator to check there wasn't air in the system it stopped but as soon as I shut the bleed screw again it started ticking again. I would say the pump is running pretty much all the time. It'll have to wait to pay day though as I've spent too much already this month

[CitroJim]

Definitely an accumulator that's flatter than a hedgehog on the M25....

You need to replace it soonest as a flat accumulator is firstly and primarily dangerous as you have no reserve of pressure for braking should the auxiliary belt break or the engine conk out in an inopportune place and secondly a flat accumulator can damage the pump and regulator...