Head Gasket Replacement

[carpy]

After much head scratching and question asking I've finally decided to admit my head gasket is starting to go. Now not being in a position to afford to pay a garage a sum of money more than the cars worth to do it I will have a go. I have a Haynes manual but unfortunately these days I have no confidence in it and I was wondering if anyone has a 'how to change the head gasket' guide.
Cheers
Carpy

[addo]

You'll need a tray.

More seriously, for those of us with "CRS" it may be good to first refresh the memory with an engine type/car model.

I would suggest for many, many PSA engines, that you replace the damper pulley at the same time.

[jgra1]

is that a reference to Eddie Izzard, addo?

Car is 2001 C5 2.0Hdi LX looking at the sig :O

[addo]

Yes; Izzard is a darned funny bloke.

As to the OP - it's like a timing job plus head gasket... So, the appropriate timing pins are required, possibly stretch torque head bolts, deep or long socket to fit, copper grease (I recommend Wurth CU800 as superior to all else on the market), head gasket, torque wench, breaker bar, inline ratshit and angle gauge, heaps of cleaning solvent (spray/rinse degreaser, crab cleaner and brake cleaner). Oil filter, water pump, consider aux tensioners/idlers/belt as well.

And, as referred to, those strongly magnetic parts trays are really handy!

[Peter.N.]

Just a thought. If the gasket leakage is not to bad you may be able to put off the hour by running with the coolant filler cap not screwed down tight. I have ben running a 2.1 XM for about 15,000 miles since the gasket started leaking with virtually no loss of water as the loose cap allows the gasses to escape. It also lowers the boiling point so don't thrash it. If it continues to loose water or looses more run like that it needs fairly urgent attention.

Peter

[citronut]

crab cleaner

i dont think he's doing this job at the sea side Adam

beside i think i would use VISE GRIPS not crabs

regards malcolm

[CitroJim]

crab cleaner

i dont think he's doing this job at the sea side Adam

beside i think i would use VISE GRIPS not crabs

regards malcolm

Perhaps in practice, a crab is better than a pair of cheap vice grips but only if they're clean - hence the crab cleaner....

I'd say the job of doing the head gasket on an HDi is fundamentally the same as doing it on an XUD and all comments regarding doing that engine will apply generally.

I know the injection pump doesn't have to be timed but I do understand getting the manifolds off is just as, or more, troublesome as it is on the XUD.

[addo]

Do they (manifolds) absolutely need to come off?

From a workshop POV, the more you unbolt, generally the more you increase both the time required to reassemble and the "knock-on" liability for those items - I mean, everything from an incorrectly tightened manifold to lost fasteners. If I had to make a choice I would try pulling the motor far forward as possible, to allow the exhaust to come up and over.

[Peter.N.]

If you are going to have the head skimmed they will probably have to come off anyway.

Peter

[addo]

I assumed that wasn't in the program. If it were, then yes - however I would still try to bench fit these items.

Also, if the head were to be skimmed and has an oilway check valve, I am a big believer in replacing this item and thoroughly flushing the galleries...

[carpy]

Thanks for the replies and no I don't have crabs . Problem is I still don't have a 'how to guide' so if none is forthcoming it looks like me and my mate 'Haynes'.
Carpy

[addo]

What's your skill level and tool armory like?

And - are you planning to skim the head?

[carpy]

Hi, I'm not and never have been a mechanic but I must have rebuilt a dozen motorcyle engines over the years so not completely useless. Have a decent set of tools and a brother in law who was a toyota mechanic who I can call on if I get too stuck. With regards to the head I was going to see what it looked like first, signs of corrosion etc.
Cheers
Carpy