Help on Flushing out rad, block Xantia TCT

Diabolical · Post by **Diabolical** » 06 Oct 2011, 21:14

Any post I can't find or advice on completely flushing my Xantia s2 TCT Estate before COLD weather arrives.

Has'nt been done 4 years, keep meaning to but need to get it right.

David

Post by **CitroJim** » 07 Oct 2011, 06:21

To be honest David, if the present coolant is clean and clear, I see little point in flushing. Just drain and refill..

However if the old stuff is a bit manky then a rinse-out is not a bad thought to behold..

Be aware that removing a TCT rad, in particular the bottom hose, can be a right 'mare due to the bayonet connectors...

For that reason it's not such a bad idea to let sleeping dogs lie...

Do you have any specific cooling issues you think a flush might address?

If you do, I'd be tempted to disconnect the top and bottom hoses at the engine end, remove the thermostat housing and flush block and rad like that... The bottom hose connector on the rear of the engine is at the lowest point so it will be effective for a total block drain and also it saves disturbing the rad bayonet connectors...

If you do this, swap the thermostat as a precaustion. Remember the TCT requires the 82 degree 'stat and not the more common 88 degree one...

Diabolical · Post by **Diabolical** » 07 Oct 2011, 18:16

CitroJim wrote:
If you do, I'd be tempted to disconnect the top and bottom hoses at the engine end, remove the thermostat housing and flush block and rad like that... The bottom hose connector on the rear of the engine is at the lowest point so it will be effective for a total block drain and also it saves disturbing the rad bayonet connectors...

If you do this, swap the thermostat as a precaution. Remember the TCT requires the 82 degree 'stat and not the more common 88 degree one...

Thanks Jim

Exactly the advice I was looking for.

Any probs with bleeding as a rule?

David

Post by **CitroJim** » 07 Oct 2011, 18:52

Diabolical wrote: Any probs with bleeding as a rule?

Nope, none at all David. Open the brass Allen headed bleeder near the thermostat housing (either one), open the wheel bleeder on the heater matrix hose and fill up the header tank whilst squeezing the top hose.. Fill until the brass bleeder starts to dribble and close it. keep filling until the tank is full and a little has dribbled out of the heater matrix bleeder.. Shut that one..

Start up, keep squeezing the top hose and opening the bleeders periodically to bleed any air and top up the header tank as necessary..

Keep the engine running, revving it occasionally, until the thermostat opens. keep squeezing the hose and topping up if necessary. Open the bleeders again.

Check the heater is giving hot air...

Check the coolant rad is hot all over...

Keep running until the cooling fans have cut in and out a couple of times.

Stop, allow the engine to cool, top up if necessary and replace the cap.

Check the level again when stone-cold...

Job done and dusted...

Use 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture for optimum corrosion protection...

I pre-dilute 50/50 before pouring in in the header tank...

Diabolical · Post by **Diabolical** » 08 Oct 2011, 08:59

Part of the reason for changing is I filter and deionise water for work so I would use that water that should also help with corrosion.

Plus I believe Total do an anti corrosion additive also.

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 08 Oct 2011, 10:11

Diabolical wrote:Plus I believe Total do an anti corrosion additive also.

Forte' do this onewhich I'm led to believe was concocted specifically for Citroens and even Xantia matrix's.