The 1.9TD engine and gearbox I removed from my old Xantia has been at the bottom of the front steps for too long now. Its an extremely heavy lump but I need to get it to my shed round the back. Normal people would probably hire or borrow something to wheel it round the back (no vehicle access) but my plan is to take it to bits and hump it round bit by bit.
First to go-the gearbox/clutch/diff.
When it originally came off the road, the manual pull-type clutch had been adjusted as far as the cable would allow, and it did give me 10,000 extra miles before the clutch slip wouldn't allow the car to move, it was December, and not a good time for replacing the clutch.
First step was getting this bit off. I am glad the engine was out , the retaining pin and spring had to be pulled out as it happened but after a fair struggle and a bit of unavoidable mole grip scuffing to the pin. As far as I could work out the pin couldn't be punched out the movement of the arm and the transmission housing didn't allow it.
After the pin was eventually wiggled out, I had to throw the full arsenal I had available to lever off the arm from the rod ie pickaxe blade and long cold chisels to lever off the reluctant arm. Again this would have been a nightmare with the engine in situ.
Not sure what I am going to find when I take the gearbox/clutch housing off. Is the original problem of the clutch slip going to have been caused by a worn driven plate or something not quite right with the release mechanism? Adjustment of the cable did cure the slip temporarily ( or 10,000 miles of temporary relief I should say).
Just for the benefit of others who may start off on a clutch job sometimes the simple instruction of "tap out the retaining pin....and remove the clutch release lever from the top of the release fork shaft" can take ages, a couple of pick axe blades as levers and a fair amount of frustration.
Neil
Xantia1.9td-Clutch
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Re: Xantia1.9td-Clutch
That's the BoL for you Neil. They strip a fairly new car and it's easy then. They don't appreciate or allow the reader to appreciate what 15 years of salty air exposure does to ferrous objects. I've had many a fight with the pin and lever and last time it took a good application of heat to make it see senseNewcastleFalcon wrote: Just for the benefit of others who may start off on a clutch job sometimes the simple instruction of "tap out the retaining pin....and remove the clutch release lever from the top of the release fork shaft" can take ages, a couple of pick axe blades as levers and a fair amount of frustration.
If you are stripping the 'box then this website may help although I've never had too much trouble in carrying a BE3 short distances. Use good lifting techniques and you'll be fine.
Mind you, stripping a 'box is very educational and you'll enjoy it immensely; who knows, you might even become a gearbox enthusiast like me...
The slipping clutch will simply be a combination of driven plate and cover wear...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Here are a few pictures of a Xantia pull-type clutch from my old L-Reg Xantia.
The friction disc looks to me to still have plenty of friction material adherering to both sides, and there was no oil contamination. The friction disc was a Valeo with a 1993 date stamped on it so I guess it is original (135,000 miles on clock).
Still when the car came off the road the clutch cable had been adusted as far as it could go, and the clutch slip didn't allow the car to move an inch further.
Not sure from examining the parts what was responsible.
Here's the evidence on photobucket.
clutch pics photobucket
Can any forensic mechanics come up with an answer?
regards
Neil
The friction disc looks to me to still have plenty of friction material adherering to both sides, and there was no oil contamination. The friction disc was a Valeo with a 1993 date stamped on it so I guess it is original (135,000 miles on clock).
Still when the car came off the road the clutch cable had been adusted as far as it could go, and the clutch slip didn't allow the car to move an inch further.
Not sure from examining the parts what was responsible.
Here's the evidence on photobucket.
clutch pics photobucket
Can any forensic mechanics come up with an answer?
regards
Neil
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Xantidote wrote:Clutching at straws
Although no firm conclusion springs to mind, I'd be minded to believe all the spring had gone out of the diaphragm spring. It would then be unable to exert full pressure on the driven plate..
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Thanks for the replies. I am sure a new clutch assembly would have sorted the problem but its always more satisfying if you can pinpoint the fault.
Here is a picture of the cable-its a manual adjust pull type cable which fits with the clutch type fitted. The adjuster nuts are right at the end of their travel giving a longer cable.
I can't quite work out in simple terms why adjusting the cable 'cured' the clutch slip up to the point where there was no more adjustment that could be done and the nuts reached the end of the cable.
Maybe a new friction disc has considerably more meat on it than mine, and when the friction disc gets down to the levels shown on mine it just does not transmit the drive even though to my eyes there was plenty left.
thanks for your help
Neil
Here is a picture of the cable-its a manual adjust pull type cable which fits with the clutch type fitted. The adjuster nuts are right at the end of their travel giving a longer cable.
I can't quite work out in simple terms why adjusting the cable 'cured' the clutch slip up to the point where there was no more adjustment that could be done and the nuts reached the end of the cable.
Maybe a new friction disc has considerably more meat on it than mine, and when the friction disc gets down to the levels shown on mine it just does not transmit the drive even though to my eyes there was plenty left.
thanks for your help
Neil