What to check when buying a Xantia 2.0 HDi (1998-2001)

madscientist · Post by **madscientist** » 17 Jul 2011, 22:31

Hi, I'd be grateful for any advice on any particular items I should pay close attention to when buying one of these - I'll only be going for one with a reasonable service history and mileage (ca 100K) - i.e. not a restoration project!

Thanks

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 17 Jul 2011, 23:25

Try a forum search as I'm sure this has been asked before.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 18 Jul 2011, 07:45

The useual Xantia weakness's..

Rust, on the rear nearside panel above the rear wheel, sunroof or NO sunroof... also on the tops of the rear end cills when you open the back doors.

Heater matrix when hot check for "Curry" smells when you go from cold to hot.. will need changing.

HDis should always start no more then 4 turns! As tend to not need the heater plugs

Find out if an In Tank lift pump has been fitted recently, if its on its original assume a replacment soon, as they only last from around 60 to 100k...!

Suspension in general, as per ALL xantias.. make sure its soft all round and the accumilator sphere is in good order, put the suspension on high listen for frequent clicks as it reaches the top, if they are not frequent its in ok order..

As for other HDi stuff, go for 110bhp, they are more efficient and better on fuel.. noticable by an extra air pipe next to the air cleaner.

HDi fuel systems are generally trouble free... taking good milages.. as for the engine Rail Pressureiser Pump they do go pop also, but as for when is completly unknown... some will doo way over 200k, some 150k...

Injectors are ok, but theres pleanty on Ebay for spares etc.. they can and do give a puff of black smoke under hard acceleration which is ok.. but tired injectors can get smokey - with a grey haze of smoke not black.

Injectors can also "Tick" under acceleration under 3k.. they will be fine and will continue to work, but its a sign of tired injectors.. you need to listen carefully, HDi sound proofing is quite good! My injectors are dooing it and have done for the last 21k... but I still average 43mpg..

Paul

Post by **Peter.N.** » 18 Jul 2011, 09:38

..also check for head gasket leakage - Paul never seems to have problems with them but I do, two of the 406s I looked at needed gaskets. Check for signs of water ejection from the header tank filler cap or overflow pipe.

Having said that the one I have now has done 195k with no sign of problems. My opinion of 2.0 8 valve Hid's has improved immensely since I had one largely due to Pauls experiences.

Peter

Gibbo2286 · Post by **Gibbo2286** » 18 Jul 2011, 10:44

I've been running a 2001 HDI 2 litre 110 Forte now for about two years, it's proved to be totally reliable and very economical, the only problem I've had is the battery which looked like the orignal and died.

I gave it a full service when I bought it and again after a year of ownership, it's needed absolutely nothing else, it uses no oil, the exhaust is clean never puffs out any black smoke and it fires up and goes first time every time and passed two mots without any problems or even advisories.

What's happened now is that someone offered me a C5 which had frightened him because the suspension wouldn't come up, the dealers quoted him a grand to fix it and it needed a set of tyres so he was keen to get out of it, I bought it and fixed up the faults so my dilemma now was which one to keep, frankly I prefer the Xantia to drive but the C5 is newer and pretty well unmarked.

In the end it came down to a toss of the coin and the Xantia is now on Ebay for sale but looking at the two cars this morning I'm still wondering if I made the right choice.

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 18 Jul 2011, 11:53

Check the condition of the LHM in the engine bay reservoir, should be clean and bright green. Cloudy, yellow, brown or worse is bad news !

Check how quickly the suspension rises after being fully lowered, should rise fairly evenly at both ends to the normal ride height in a fairly short time.

When the suspension is in the normal position, push firmly down at each corner of the car. It should be soft and complaint and depress a good few inches easily. Stiff and hard to move means spheres are dead.

Post by **CitroJim** » 18 Jul 2011, 12:03

Check too the crank pulley. They're dual mass and can break up and go a bit wonky.

They give themselves away by rattling and knocking.

It's not a showstopper but be aware...

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 18 Jul 2011, 13:02

One of the give aways for a suspect crank pulley is an oscillating top tensioner pulley