g a skytronic 600.006 multimeter to check batter

boristhespie · Post by **boristhespie** » 11 Jun 2011, 12:23

Just got one of these but looking at it I haven't a scoobu on how to use it to check the battery.

Can someone take me through it in thicko terms?

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 11 Jun 2011, 14:40

Can you post a picture of it so as to see what ?

Post by **myglaren** » 11 Jun 2011, 14:58

I did have an excellent guide to battery testing but can't find it just now.

Basic checks - after the car has stood a while (several hours) access the battery terminals, turn on the headlights for a minute to dissipate the surface charge, then off again and check the voltage - select a range that will put the desired voltage in the centre of the range, or as near as possible.

I'm probably going to get shot down in flames here but IIRC the voltage with the surface charge removed should be ±13V.*

Without running the engine or any electrical equipment, check again after six hours, the result should be the same, if not the battery is failing.

With the engine running you should see approx. 14.4~14.7V across the battery terminals.

If not the battery needs checking under load and the specific gravity checking with an hydrometer.

*My old one, off the car for a couple of months, is showing 12.7V
Didn't need a new one at all

Gingerposer · Post by **Gingerposer** » 11 Jun 2011, 15:16

If it's this one, it's basically the same as the one I use.

If you picture it like a clock, the section from 9-12 (says V on the outside) is the voltage checking bit. Each number represents the maximum voltage that setting is designed to check. You need to select the number which is just above the range you need to check, for accuracy. So if you wish to check a 12v battery, choose 20. If you see minus numbers, just put the contacts on the battery terminals the other way round See the posts previous to this one for the figures you should be seeing.

Ainslie

Post by **Peter.N.** » 11 Jun 2011, 16:17

..around 12 volts off charge with a small load and about 14.4 volts with the engine running. Select either 'DC volts' or DC 25 volts or anything above 15v depending on the meter.

Peter

boristhespie · Post by **boristhespie** » 11 Jun 2011, 16:21

Think that's the onr. Myglaren gave me the link to Ebay. If plunked through the letter box this morn having been opened with a knife (!) but the minute I looked at it I knew I was lost. All that gobbledeegook.

Which hold to i put the wire thingies into?

Post by **myglaren** » 11 Jun 2011, 16:34

Red lead into V Ω mA, black lead into COM
AC Volts is denoted by a "~" symbol, DC by an unbroken horizontal line over a broken (dotted) line.

Red probe goes on the + battery terminal, black one to the - terminal.

There is a tutorial here
It is a .pdf but downloads instantly.
Page 5 is the place to start.

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 11 Jun 2011, 18:40

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing!

The multimeter will tell you the alternator voltage output and read the voltage condition of the battery but these are only indicators.

You need an ammeter to read the current output of the alternator and a discharge tester to tell you the condition of the battery under load.

Multimeters are also good for testing continuity and possibly resistance in certain components.

Steve, quite a few nice little nuggets of info in the PDF for the layman. Why are there some gaps in the script?

Confused?

I was also intrigued by the title 'DMM to check batter'. Personally, I never have that problem when making pancakes.

H