Xantia Coolant Hose - Highest hose with bleed screw

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 06 Jun 2011, 18:20

Whilst fixing a leak on my Bosch pump I knocked the plastic coolant hose (3 way) bleed screw. The plastic has sheered off from the union hose to the Fuel filter + the engine block.

Where could I get such a beast? Are these sold after market by GSF or Euro parts?

Cheers
Jamie

Post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2011, 19:15

It's easy done Jamie

Been there, done that...

It'll be a dealer only part and it's not easy to replace as you'll find it's part of a long hose that snakes around a bit.

I'd be tempted to look at tuning bits, specifically turbo stuff, for a brass or heat resistant plastic tee-piece that will take all three pipes.

If you go down this road, you can still bleed effectively by loosening one of the pipes.

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 06 Jun 2011, 19:18

Ta Jim
Funny you suggest this. I was thinking the same myself after I had snapped it. If I leave all three pipes in situ and hack away (but leave protective sheathing) I could easily put a brass T piece in there.

Are you sure I will be able to bleed the coolant system of air with out a valve?

EDITED
Just for information purposes I note on the Citroen service site that the part is listed as:
DURITE COOLING HOSE
1351 X7
WTR INLET HOSE
DIAM 8-10-10
+ 0234 47 (01) TO O 7236

Post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2011, 19:29

Yes, I've bled a 405 1.9TD engine in the past by pulling the equivalent small hose following a seized bleed valve.

If you can get a suitable brass tee, you could always machine a bleed screw into it. Drill and tap a small hole for a small brass screw with an O ring underneath it.

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 06 Jun 2011, 20:06

Excellent idea Jim.
Many thanks for your advice.

Why did Citroen use so much plastic clips and unions I will never know. £££££££££££

JG

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 06 Jun 2011, 22:12

JG

Is this the item you are refering to?

If it is you can have it-PM me if you want it

Regards Neil

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 07 Jun 2011, 17:45

Yes that the beast. I note that your inlet hoses do not have heat protective braiding as mine does. All that protection did not stop the valve from sheering though!

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 07 Jun 2011, 17:49

Mod idea:

First install one on these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6mm-1-4-BRASS-BAR ... 3a54fb497a

Then one of these inline:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-5-GT-TURB ... 5d2efd5f2c

What are your thoughts on the use of a fuel bleed valve for the coolant?

JG

spider · Post by **spider** » 07 Jun 2011, 18:23

CitroJim wrote:Yes, I've bled a 405 1.9TD engine in the past by pulling the equivalent small hose following a seized bleed valve..

I was about to suggest the same thing as I read what you posted earlier up in the topic Jim, before seeing that reply. The one on the 405's does seize / snap, so a small length of pipe and you can bleed it out etc.

Regarding the OP's issue in question, it is quite common for them to break, same as the 406 one. The 'usual' cause seems to be accidentally leaning on it when reaching something else, at least in the ones I saw anyway. It is a bit of a fiddle to replace but not too bad, although Xantia will no doubt be a bit shorter of engine bay room compared to a 406.

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 07 Jun 2011, 18:56

Please can you expand on this 'small bit of pipe'. I am dodging the showers here in Swansea and I now have a nice load of coolant over the drive.

My next challenge is devise a header tank to top the coolant back up. Searching the forum for ideas now.....

Post by **CitroJim** » 07 Jun 2011, 19:05

magictorch wrote: My next challenge is devise a header tank to top the coolant back up. Searching the forum for ideas now.....

You don't need one Jamie.

So long as yo keep the expansion tank full and the cap off, the system will bleed itself effectively via the heater matrix bleed valve and your broken pipe.

Squeeze the top hose as it warms to help it along. Run with the cap off until the fans cut in and out twice and don't replace the cap until the engine is again cold.

Keep topping up as needed to keep the tank brimmed whilst warming up and bleeding... Periodically open the bleed valves whilst the engine is running. Be careful of scalds.

You can tell all is OK when the heater gives lots of hot air, the top hose is hot and the rad is hot all over.

Never used a header tank for bleeding ever...

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 07 Jun 2011, 19:07

Jamie

I have found that chandlery suppliers are usually pretty good for hose connector paraphernlia like this:

chandleryworld

PM sent re hose and bleed valve

regards

Neil

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 07 Jun 2011, 19:16

Cheers Jim,
Sorry if I am labouring the point here. I am paranoid about damaging the cylinder head with trapped air.

So this is the state I am in. The bleed valve connector has sheered the short pipe returning inlet under the fuel pump. It has sheered the pipe to the engine (right hand side).

I have removed short pipe from under fuel pump and this has drained approx 1/2 litre of coolant. I did this as it was too short to connect my 6mm brass T-piece too.

Jim, are you saying just simply connect up all three pipes to connector and add coolant to the expansion tank with cap off and engine running after having refilled it?

Post by **CitroJim** » 07 Jun 2011, 19:26

magictorch wrote: Jim, are you saying just simply connect up all three pipes to connector and add coolant to the expansion tank with cap off and engine running after having refilled it?

Yes, that's it Jamie..

Honestly, as long as the heater blows hot air, the rad is hot all over, the temperature gauge reads as expected and the fans cut in and out then believe me, you're bled

I understand your paranoia well but if you follow my procedure, you'll be fine and if you have only lost half a litre of the original coolant this will be insufficient to cause a major air lock. They only happen if the system is totally empty after say, a water pump swap. Then there is a danger of an air lock causing you to think the system is full after only putting about 2 litres in.

If filling from empty, fill up with all bleeders open and keep filling until they dribble and then squeeze the top hose a few times whilst brimming the expansion tank. When the engine warms and the thermostat opens it's likely you'll see a big air bubble appear in the tank and the level may rapidly fall. Stop and repeat the above.

It's vita to keep the tank brimmed at all times...

magictorch · Post by **magictorch** » 07 Jun 2011, 21:09

Well success!

Diesel leak fixed from bottom right Bosch outlet by replacing with a new copper washer.

Coolant three way valve fixed by using a 6mm brass (gas one!) and new hose to engine block under pump.

I did as you said Jim, waited for fan to kick in and down went the coolant level. Awesome

Many many thanks to everyone in this thread for their help.

Cheers
Jamie

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Xantia Coolant Hose - Highest hose with bleed screw

Xantia Coolant Hose - Highest hose with bleed screw

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