Hub reassembly confirmation

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 30 May 2011, 12:04

Can anyone just allay my concerns with this hub I am assembling

Is the hub high enough on the strut? Seems to be and it won't seem to go any further but there are other things that make me concerned it isn't (see below)

Is this lower arm on the balljoint properly? You can see a bit of metal, should it rest right up against the rubber boot?

This is what is making me think things are out of line...

The driveshaft seems to run very close to the hub, the clip on the boot even touches the metal, it seems it may have been doing that before I dismantled as there is evidence on the hub that it has. Should it run this close?

Or am I being paranoid and all is fine? I'm worrying a little bit because I need to be able to at least push the car off road come MOT expiry on Friday, and I'm working everyday until then, except today but everywhere I need to go is closed

I've only put this one back on, just realised I can't do the other side until I have got a new lower balljoint dust shield and then I need some punches to get it home.

Post by **RichardW** » 30 May 2011, 14:47

Toby

Pic 1 it looks like the hub is up against the original witness mark, so I can't see there's too much of an issue. Is there a shoulder in the bottom of the hub carrier, or a pip on the strut you should be aligned against?

Pic 2 I would say that BJ is not shut - on Xantias at least, it's very tight to get a splitter in to release the joint, but you look to have loads of room there...

Pic 3 - the location of the hub in the strut shouldn't affect this clearance. They do run without too much clearance anyway - can you tap down the end of the clip so it doesn't foul the hub?

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 30 May 2011, 16:01

Toby, there should be a 'tit' on the strutt that aligns with an indent on the hub swivel assembly, usually at the top of the split. This means the strut is in the hub swivel up to its maximum and that the KPI and caster angle are in correct alignment with the strut, otherwise you will get strange steering.

The bottom ball joint housing does not look like it is pulled up enough. Did you use the proper castillated socket and a thread locking compound?

It is possible for these hub swivel assemblies to distort. I have come across two so far, they usually cause a mis-alignment of the caliper carrier.

H

Post by **CitroJim** » 30 May 2011, 16:16

Indeed, the 'tit' and witness marks give the corret alignment for the struts.

I installed the new swivels Handyman and I can confirm they were correctly installed and done up using the correct tool

Ensure Toby, that the taper socket in the lower wishbone is clean and in any case, the joint will pull tighter when correctly torqued up.

Toby, I noticed, and meant to point out that on one of the hubs there was evidence of 'picking up' from the CV joint clip.

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 30 May 2011, 16:43

Thanks fellas.

I did try to tighten the balljoint nut but it tightened against the lower arm instead of first pulling the joint tight.

I know about the little tit, does it have to be in a precise location? I thought it was just there to denote where the split in the hub clamp located. The tit is currently located in the split.

Jim, I noticed that today. Is it just a case then that the clip wasn't pressed down properly when fitted and thus all I need to do is make sure it is? Once again, many thanks for yesterday. Much appreciated.

As luck would have it, the only day off I have now is today and its too wet to work. It might be worth me removing the hub and starting again when it is dry. I'll just have to finish work at 5 each day and get straight out and work until light fades.

Post by **CitroJim** » 30 May 2011, 18:07

As far as I recall, the 'tit' goes in the slot and rests above the centre pinch bolt to determine correct depth. As said though, there'll be a clear witness mark for depth...

Yes, just flatten the CV joint clip a tad so there is good running clearance.

Check it's fitted the correct way so that in the normal direction of rotation centrifugal force would tend to flatten the clip. If it's installed backwards, rotational forces might tend to push it upward...

It was good to see you yesterday Toby, thoroughly enjoyed the day

Been a tad tired today though!!!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 30 May 2011, 18:49

the tit is just there to aline the strut into the pinch clamp slot, and im sure it does nout elss,

as others say just flatten the strapping a bit,

if you look up from under the hub you can see if the strut is fully home,

also if you place a jack under the are near the outter end, but leave enough room the get a socket on the swivle pin nut,

jack the arm up tiight onto the swivle pin, then wind the nut up tight,

you will also strugle the get the heat shield fitted properly once the lower swivle is fitted back into the arm,

regards malcolm

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 30 May 2011, 20:29

Well it has dried out a little here so I went out for another go....

The lower arm does not seem to want to go any further than it is. I didn't realise it could be jacked up though, It may help though knowing my luck I doubt it...

So I thought, 'right, well that must be as far as it goes' and went to do the other side.

As soon as I went near the driveshaft, out it pops again. The lower arm seems too high there as well, either that or the strut is too low. I can't see how as there are no stresses on the suspension as the car is on stands which are under the chassis box sections.

Add to that the corroded calipers and I may have bitten off more than I can chew.

I'm starting to lose my rag with it. Anyone want a cheap Coupé? Every single job I do I wish I'd never started.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 31 May 2011, 08:06

just give the hub a shuve/jiggle whilst applying the jack under the arm, as the swivle pin can get caught on the machined step at the top end of the thread,

i think the only other cause could be the wrong sieze swivle pin, if there is a bigger diamiter pin for another modle??? (not sure),

as that pin should go in till the boot is tight against the arm,

and its nout to do with the strut in or out enough as this cant affect how the pin or driveshaft fit,

get to percy what sit out of your tool box, and sit down with a cuppa and chocy bicys :teabag:

regards malcolm

Post by **CitroJim** » 31 May 2011, 08:33

This is odd...

Basically, if they're gone home a fair distance into wishbone then there's not a problem. With the nut torqued up about 4 or 5mm of thread should protrude through the end of the nut. If you get this thgen fine, no worries.

Toby, I still have one of the old swivels here. If you measure the diamater at the top and bottom of the taper with a caliper, I can check if there is a marked difference. You might still have an old one for comparative purposes..

Basically, as I understand it, all swivels bare the same be it Xantia, 406 or whatever...

As Malcolm says, percywhatsit and a few cuppas will do the trick!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 31 May 2011, 13:08

i do know the BX swivle has a smaller swivle pin Jim,

regards malcolm

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 31 May 2011, 17:18

I'm about to go out to try the jack trick. Thanks Malc. Will try the other side too, need to jack the strut up so will probabl;y jack that on the bottom of the ARB if no one can see a problem with that?

I will arm myself with tons of percywotsit

Will let you know how I get on,

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 31 May 2011, 19:01

Well it will not go on any further. To see if tighten did anything I torqued the nut up properly and am left with this

The other side I can tell is going to be fun. You can see from the picture how far up the hub the lower arm is sitting. I can't understand it.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 31 May 2011, 19:13

well i have never seen a gap between the swivle rubber boot and the lower arm with it fitted tight,

but you certaily do have a good length of thread protruding out of the nut,

i think i would now fit the wheel and lever it up and down with a very long bar between the bottom of the tyre and the ground,

like an MOT tester does just to see if there is any up and down play/movement,

regards malcolm

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 02 Jun 2011, 22:51

Car now back together with the exception of calipers and brake hoses.

With two people the job was extremely simple, though trying to immobilise the hub without calipers was interesting. Once secured my 3/4" torque wrench made light work of torquing them up to 325Nm.

Pushed the car on to the drive now MOT has lapsed so I have time to sort the corrosion on the Brembos out. Not decided if I'm going to split them or not yet. I can't see how I'll sort them properly without splitting them.

The ball joint will not go any further and Kev agrees with me, we tried everything. The other side - the balljoint went straight on up to the boot.

I must say a huge thanks to Kev for coming down (a fair trek!) and helping. Two pairs of hands, two pairs of eyes and another brain certainly helps. Thanks Kev!