Welding

[handyman]

Get a piece of scaffold pole to act as a former to shape the new piece to the same profile as the original sill. Ideally, you need a joddler to form a step on the edge of the new piece so it slots into place before welding.

I'd remove as much of the rust showing as possible, prior to welding and after, it would be worth spraying inside the sill section with some rust preventative, like Jenolite.

H

[NewcastleFalcon]

Thanks H I will hae to look up what a joddler is but good news, I do have a 1Mtr lenght of scaffolding pole in my tool bag!

regards

Neil

[citronut]

you can remove the two bolts on the end of the front wing inside the door shut, and the one underneath the front wing, them you can pull the wing away enough so you can then make you repair patch in one piece,

also it would be better to fold a right angled lip to plug weld to the face of, the bottom lip,

you might find a small local garage workshop would let you use there vice,

regards malcolm

[NewcastleFalcon]

Very old thread, but some useful contributions. Needless to say really never got round to doing the welding myself, or getting it done by anyone else!

Came across this this morning, and despite never having any intention whatsoever at ever turning my hand to welding, found the video a good watch.



Neil

[MattBLancs]

No expert in welding at all, but bought an inverter MIG setup off eBay when a quick investigation into a "small bubble in the underseal" on the 206 very quickly snowballed!

Like a pig in muck!

My welding tips for what it's worth adding in:

• get an auto-diming mask, available for about £35+ the permanently dark versions are a massive faff!

• MIG welder rather than stick welder. Stick good for thick steel but most car jobs are way to thin and burning holes and general frustration were result of trying to stick weld an exhaust, never mind thin bodywork!

• stuff gets hot enough to melt plastics (e.g. insulation on cables) in very short time. Hot enough to set stuff alight not a great deal longer! Carpets, wiring, etc inside floorpan at risk when "outside" fixing the sills

• on MIG setup, thin wire better for thin steel, I bought roll of 0.6mm, tips and the drive wheel inside the welder that pushes it down to the tip

• "hobby" gas bottles (little disposable type) give tiny run time and work out expensive in the long term. I bought /leased? a big bottle from "HobbyWeld"

• powerfile is great tool, essential, to grind back any mess and make a silk purse from a sow's ear!

[mickthemaverick]

I have a very good tip for welding:

You could get one of these:

BFTW

or maybe one of these:

BFTW

or even one of these:

BFTW

but I've always found one of these is by far the best solution:

Spoiler: show

Own work - my mate who does welding!!

[MattBLancs]

Oh, that was the other thing I forgot earlier, it's joggler (GG rather than DD)

Seemingly not to be confused with https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joggling# ... 20jogglers.

From Wikipedia

In all honesty I can't quite believe that is actually a real thing!!

CitroJim one for you?

[Gibbo2286]

I spent many many hours lying on my back under rusty cars with the oxy-acetylene kit before the MIG came on the scene, the first mono-constructed cars were rotting away within 18 months, no ready made panels in those days so everything had to be cut and shaped to size.
MIGs when they first arrived were hugely expensive and you had to have a lease with British Oxygen for the gas bottles, it all got a bit easier when the portable MIGs came along, welded hundreds of the Ford suspension top plates and sills on all makes.
Never got around to the TIG and sold the portable MIG on Ebay a couple of years ago.