How to dismantle a Xantia? Which bits to save?

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 10 Apr 2011, 18:17

The sun is going down on my spares Xantia-literally I need to reclaim the space in front of my house again.

Xantia1.9TD-L-REG

EngineBay

I have taken off and recycled the cylinder head, the radiator, the steering rack, the front strut top, the steering rack, and assorted spheres.

Any advice on on a good dismantling plan, or what bits to save. For example-how would I go about dropping and pulling out the front and rear subframes and dismantling components with a clear go at it rather than from awkward positions under the car?

Much appreciated

Neil

Post by **CitroJim** » 10 Apr 2011, 18:23

Neil,

If it's a sinker, the hydraulic pump, FDV, pressure regulator and associated pipework. They're all unique and rarer than hen's teeth...

If good, struts and strut tops. Brake calipers. Instrument pod, clock, diesel pump, height correctors. Ignition switch. Door locks, door glass.

Drive Shafts, hubs.

I'm sure may will add to this list!

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 10 Apr 2011, 18:46

Jim this could be a picture of a very rusty hen's tooth

Its a while since it has moved, but I think it was a sinker-does this pic confirm this?

Thanks Neil

Post by **CitroJim** » 10 Apr 2011, 18:54

Yep, that's a sinker pump Neil.. Free of leaks too by the look of it

Where did you get the car from? The bottom of the sea by any chance...

That's some serious looking rust... Those pumps are so rare though it is worth saving...

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 10 Apr 2011, 19:06

Thanks Jim

It was December 2006 when it last moved-Just passed its MOT as well, but the clutch needed doing, and December isnt the best time to do a clutch outside on the street.

. I bought another Xantia for £300 to get me mobile again, and have done 60,000 miles in it but never got round to ressurecting the other one.

Those pipe nuts aren't going to move are they? I have found a bit of difficulty getting a 12mm hexagon flare nut spanner from usual factors/motorparts shops and even internet searches. Anything other than a hex is going to turn the corners off those unions in seconds flat.

Anyone discovered a source for such a tool?

Thanks Neil

Post by **CitroJim** » 10 Apr 2011, 19:10

NewcastleFalcon wrote: Anyone discovered a source for such a tool?

Invariably you need to buy a set Neil. I have a set like this. Worth their weight in gold as off-times they can be used as ring spanners on ordinary nuts in inaccessible paces...

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 10 Apr 2011, 20:04

Dropping subframes off complete are rather simple, and if you drop both front and rears in the cars position, PLUS the pipe work under the car along the floor everything can be left in place on them.... remember to release the height controller lever rods from the height correctors...

then - 4 bolts at the rear and four at the front and down they come... the scrap man can then lift the whole BARE shell off them and leave them in place on the floor for you to then go round removing stuff off the subframes...

Youve named all the important stuff above to remove...

Shame to loose a sinker as a whole car! But there we go..

Paul

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 10 Apr 2011, 20:20

Thanks for the info on the tools Jim I have hex flare nut spanners for 9/10,11, and 13mm. I can see the set at around £30 when P&P is added on would be nice to have.

Any thoughts on dropping the subframes.

I think I read in a post on the forum once that the rear subframe is held on by 4 bolts, no doubt rusted to shearing point on the car. Do these poke up into the floorpan where I could cut them off from inside the vehicle?

Is the front subframe held in place by six bolts, two on the branches each side which attach to the inner wing and two at each side at the rear of the subframe?

Edit

Just spotted your reply on the subframes Paul-thanks. Does the anti roll bar come down with the subframes front and back? Does the bolt at each side of the inner wing "branch" need removing? Are there 2 subframe mounting bolts side by side at each side, at rear of front subframe?

Thanks Neil

Thanks Neil

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 10 Apr 2011, 20:33

Yes anti roll bars DO come down with the subframes

Yes the bolts are grouped together under the drivers feet area, and passenger feet area...(Fronts)

The rear drivers side, the edge above the fuel filler pipe WILL come past the filler pipe... so dont worry about moveing the filler pipe away..

Not sure what you mean : Does the bolt at each side of the inner wing "branch" need removing?

Theres no subframe bolts by the inner wings to remove the subframe..

Paul

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 10 Apr 2011, 21:15

Paul

This is the "branch" I was talking about it pokes up to the inner wing- thought it was part of the subframe.

Thanks Neil

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 10 Apr 2011, 21:19

DOH.... Course it is...

Yes, they need undooing too.... forgot about those..

Paul

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 11 Apr 2011, 09:53

If per chance you've not sold or are not keeping them, could i please exchange papery queen portraits for your front calipers? Can you confirm disc diameter please and were they the 14" wheels fitted?

thanks

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 11 Apr 2011, 10:02

Being an L reg sinker car Neil, it WILL be the smaller size Disks and calipers.

It was only estates that had the bigger disks, which untill 1997 on the LAST S1 cars did they then fit the bigger estate disks and calipers to the TD hatch's

Disks will be the smaller 283mm (Im sure) size, as later and estates were 288mm

Paul

P616VKX · Post by **P616VKX** » 11 Apr 2011, 10:42

A few things I'd be looking to rescue would be the Grille and Bonnet. Simply because a grille without chevrons on it would look great on the front of my car, and a bonnet with Chevrons has got to be a bit of a rarity due to the lack of Sinkers around nowadays.

To remove the grille, you have to attack two little black round things on the slam panel, prising the middle out with a screwdriver and then getting the outside of the black things out too. Normally using a flatblade screw driver.

Then, you need to remove the Indicator units by depressing the tabs accessible down a small hole at the side of the headlight... Then they should pop out, or be persuaded lightly.

Then, undo the TORX screws behind the indicator units, locate the TORX screws in the bottom slat of the grille, and it should all pull out nicely!

Above and beyond that, I can't think of anything else Sinker Specific save for the hydraulics.

Stu.

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 11 Apr 2011, 10:43

Colour code is worth making a note of, then the bumpers/doors/bonnet/wings if they're in good order.