removing thermostat for the summer? dw10 hdi

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eurotrotter
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removing thermostat for the summer? dw10 hdi

Post by eurotrotter »

alrit folks

i have a 2000 xsara coupe and she is overheating a little in these summer weather like weather we had here in germany today with 25 degrees,

i bought a new thermostat from a Citroen dealer today thinking that it would solve teh issue, it actually made the car overheat more, so maybe the new thermostat was faulty - but it fitted perfectly, had 83' written on it the same way as the old one.

i even tesed the old thermostat, but didnt see it pop or click, when i tested it in a pot of hot water, which i boild.

i then dropped it in a pot of cold water, still made no difference, but maybe i was doing it wrong, here are links to me doing all of this:

but i was thinking of mayb removing the thermostat altogether, this would keep my temperature down, without any disdvantage, other thatn the fact i woodnt have hot air in teh cabin, but that is not an issue in summer here in gemrany

what do u guys think

thanks v much, and have a great wkd

ed
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Post by Toby_HDi »

I would say you actually have a problem with the cooling system itself. Maybe a blockage, air-lock or old coolant.

A HDi shouldn't really overheat at all. If anything they run cold. They are so thermally efficient. My old Xantia HDi never rose above 75 degrees, no matter what.

Might be worth a coolant flush and change. The flush should also enable you to see if you have a blockage.
Toby


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eurotrotter
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Post by eurotrotter »

hi toby, thanks for the reply
i have tried acoolant flush, and i think i got eh mix right, but its still not right,

i think i might have a blockage though as i am not sure if i unblocked it or not, i basically loosed the bleed screw, on the bulkead, the dust cap - the black one and the gold coloured allen screw on the thermostat housing and removed the cap on teh black water tank on teh rad and revved teh engine for 4/5 mins to 1800rpm, but only ever got a constant flow from teh gold screw, and not from the bulkhead,

ihere are some pics of my work today:

i think this is the simple for low coolant levels, i got this after i lost some coolant after i removed the thermostat housing;

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 5679217778

the original thermostat:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 8654696338

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 9200540514

the NEW THERMOSTAT-but i actually looks a bit different:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 9200540514

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 5115214898
eurotrotter
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removing blocks/bleeding coolant system,

Post by eurotrotter »

hi guys

i have changed my coolant recently and noticed that the car is overheating a little more than it used to

i think i have a blockage or a bleed issue,

btw i drive a xsara 1 hdi dw10 1997cc

when i slowly release the bleed screws - 1 on bulkhead and other on thermostat housing, should they immediately trickle coolant steadly and fluidly - if thats even a word

cos when i do this when the engine is running, it doesnt release steadily and fluidly

i am not sure how to bleed the car to be perfectly honest,

i have done the following, but not sure if this is the answer:

remove coolant filler cap, loosened the two bleed screws, and revved car at 1800rpm for bout 5 minutes, but the fluid didnt start constantly flowing out.

any ideas?

thanks

ed
addo
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Post by addo »

Sounds like the water pump is possibly not pumping enough.

When you remove the black cap on the firewall with motor running, coolant should pee out vigorously. Assuming the heater hoses are connected, that is!

If it's not coming out in such a steady stream, then look at the lower radiator hose to see if it's squished or being sucked inwards. This is the fattish hose which goes down below the alternator and so forth, towards the rear of your motor.

If it looks normal, and with the motor off can be squeezed like one of those blood pressure cuff inflators, then the pump is almost certainly stuffed.
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Post by eurotrotter »

hi addo, thanks for replying, when i remove the black cap on the bulkhead completely, is sprays out coolant, that isnt a problem.

the water pump was replaced recently also, about 2 months ago
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Post by MikeT »

Coolant should run from all bleed ports IF the level of coolant is high enough.

Is the top of the coolant level higher than the highest bleed port? You'll never bleed it if not.

Citroen use a bottle that sits in the neck of the header tank to add coolant from a higher level. Cut the bottom off an old coke bottle and place it in the neck of the header tank, sealing it as best you can. Fill the coke bottle with coolant and try bleeding it again.

I think the Haynes manual outlines this method.
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Post by HDI »

The coolant temperature sensor may be faulty and causing an incorrect gauge reading. If the car isn't displaying any other signs of overheating, like venting from the expansion tank then this is the most likely cause. The coolant temperature needs to be checked with a test gauge but you probably don't have the equipment to do this. The sensor could be replaced to check, but they are fairly expensive, perhaps £20-30.

I've had this fault on my Xantia HDI.
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec :(
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident :(
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP :(
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped :( )
& a couple of Peugeots !
eurotrotter
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Post by eurotrotter »

@Mike T: but i already have the coolant at the right level, should i just fill the coke bottle arrangement, and just bleed out the access then later?

is it dangerous to have too much coolant?

@HDI: the car is fine to be honest, so maybe i will try this once i have ruled out the bleed possibility

thanks
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Post by MikeT »

eurotrotter wrote:@Mike T: but i already have the coolant at the right level, should i just fill the coke bottle arrangement, and just bleed out the access then later?

is it dangerous to have too much coolant?
The right level should not include air pockets, which the header tank level can disguise, so yes, overfill via the coke bottle method as it should balance out to the correct level as you bleed, if you see what I mean? Any excess should vent via the overflow in the header anyway.
mendedit
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Post by mendedit »

Fan cutting-in at the right temp. is it?
If at all!

New Stat. fitted the correct way round I trust? :twisted:

What is the temp. it's running at?
The world is full of them and a lot are in
eurotrotter
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Post by eurotrotter »

Fans are working perfectly, the car is operating at 80degrees most of the time, but when i give her a bit of gas on teh autobahn with speeds greater that 75mph it goes to 85degrees
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Post by mongoose100 »

85 would be what I'd call normal, 100+ is where I'd be monitoring her closer...

Other peoples views?
Regan.

2001 Citroën C5 V6
1994 Citroën Xantia 1.9TD
eurotrotter
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Post by eurotrotter »

hi folks, just one thing,

which is the top and which is the bottom of this thermostat:

is this the top:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 3475608418

and is the bottom:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 5115214898

thanks

ed

(I hope im not gonna feel really stupid!)
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Post by Clogzz »

with speeds greater that 75mph it goes to 85degrees
That’s normal, it takes quite some power to move at such speeds and the engine pedals hard and fast.
The makers tout top speeds of 120 mph and so, but they’re only good for the time to get there and back.
My petrol Xantia was only good for 90 mph, above that the temperature started to rise.
2002 C5 2.0i AL4 230,000 km 76372389
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