Geoffs C5 SX 2.0 HDi 110 51

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

It is LDS, not LHM. Depends where you buy it.
I bought 1 Litre at the Citroen Northern rally last year for £7-ish, couldn't say what it normally goes for but I'd be surprised if it was under a tenner.

The tailgate 'adjustment' is a new one on me. Mine has never been a problem - until tomorrow, of course :(

My understanding was that if they are failing they need regassing before they get to bad.
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Post by citroenxm »

The brake pedal will feel "Strange" to Citroen drivers, as theres a Conventual Servo and master cylinder at the passenger side... no more doser valve...

Nose diving?? Not heard about that on the C5, anti dive geometry not working?? Or is that something thats mchnical that never "Doesn't" work?

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Post by Geoff Lebowski »

I read somewhere in an exceptional explanation of the workings of hydraulic suspension that one of the benefits is that there is no nose diving during braking. effectively I\'d taken it for granted having driven cits since 1997, but when I was dragged in to help a friend with a Mondeo - I realised what this nose dive business was all about.
None of my BXs have done it
The Xantia didn\'t do it
The XM didn\'t do it.

Next time you drive a non Cit car, see how the nose drops when braking. Then get back in your cit and do the same. It\'s not dangerous and nor do I think there is something wrong, just one of things that to date has eluded Citroens (based on the hydraulic system according to this document) and I\'ve only ever noticed it on conventionally sprung cars...............until the C5. Coincidence? I don\'t know, just speculating.

Damn, the rear tailgate \'struts\' can\'t be adjusted? bum hats
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Post by myglaren »

I have never noticed my C5 nose diving either but it could just be that - I just haven't noticed it or taken it for granted.
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Post by RichardW »

3 litres of LDS for my mate's car came in at £45 ish from the dealer :shock: not sure there's anything available aftermarket - it does seem however, that LHM could possibly be used as a substitute - it may not be exactly the same, but the rubber parts appear compatible - the front strut leak off hoses are carried over from the Xantia.
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Post by Citroenmad »

The C5s don't nose div when braking, it might slightly but not noticeably. Its not the back of the car rising which is making you think that is it?

The brakes are conventional unlike previous big Citroens, they are very powerful, they just need more pressing :)
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Post by Geoff Lebowski »

It's not the back end rising no, it's not an issue though.

What is an issue is
1) The rear boot lid wont stay up - some chap mentioned that the hydraulic strut jobbies are adjustable. Is this so?
2) If the rear goes over a sharp bump, there is a loud metallic clang - does anyone know what this would be and if it's a concern or just an annoyance?
Other than that, she's going well, but a brimmed concumption test shows 38 mpg (comp said 39). This was a mix of driving but disappointingly, the motorway 'part' averaged 41. Why could this be?
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Post by Citroenmad »

A clang from the rear can be a rear radius arm bearing failing, not that uncommon on C5s and Xantias alike. Its a straight forward job to do and is just like the Xantia.

Economy does seem a little low, could be various things such as a failed MAF sensor, boost leak, lack of servicing, dirty air intake etc.

I give our 110 a good blast of air intake cleaner spray on every service which does seem to work wonders for performance and economy. Also MAFs dont last forever and can cause over fueling. My 110 had this without putting in a fault code.
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Post by Clogzz »

Boot lid struts adjustable … very unlikely but I’ll check by daylight tomorrow.
My rear clang is when the spare wheel, jack and brace aren’t strapped down tightly.
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Post by Geoff Lebowski »

Would a non leaning rear arm rule out radius arm bearing failure?

How did you deduce MAF sensor failure? My C5 is, IMO, a tad sluggish.
Not checked for a boost leak - normally can hear ryhe hiss though I thought?
Servicing is due in 1300 miles but the car has full history so at least has been serviced regularly. Hmmmm.........

Thanks cloggs, if not, I assume replacement units are required.
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Post by Citroenmad »

Our previous C5 estate had a clang from the rear when going over bumps, it was loud and got so bad it could be felt through the floor. However the rear wheels were totally straight. The radius bearing was replaced and fixed the problem, it was very worn.

The spare wheel can bang about if its not tightly strapped down. Can you pinpoint which side of the car the clang comes from?

I asked a local garage who specialise in car electrics and diagnostics, they suggested replacing the MAF as the car was sluggish and poor on fuel, though no codes had been logged. I did and the performance and economy was restored.

However I know from another 110 C5 that only genuine Citroen MAFs will do. The above mentioned estate had a MAF fitted just before we got the car. The car was so slow and poor on fuel. I swapped the MAF with the other 110 we have and performance and economy was where I would expect it to be. So I changed the cheapy MAF for a genuine one.

It might be worth you cleaning your MAF sensor and seeing if that helps at all. Or getting the fault codes read on a lexia.
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Post by Geoff Lebowski »

Thank you Cit Mad.
Oddly enough I tested which side the noise came from today! It's def the n/s. As an example, if you drop of a high kerb - even going nice and slow, it'll 'clack'.
Its pretty loud, but doesn't creak or make noise over 'normal' ground, just sharp bumps/drops on the rear n/s.

I'll give the car a good going over on the next service and if things don't improve I'll look further into it. Hard to guage though. Have you ever had/driven a late Xantia 2.1TD? If so, how did it compare?
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Post by Clogzz »

... the hydraulic strut jobbies are adjustable. Is this so?
They’re not adjustable, looking very ordinary with warnings not to open them because of high gas pressure.
Some mobs recondition struts by squirting gas into them but don’t know how that goes or how long it lasts.
New struts will be extortionately expensive but the wreckers should have useable ones.

It may be that only one strut is faulty with the other one unable to hold the lid up.
Smearing petroleum jelly on the shafts may help the struts a little.
I had a noisy bonnet strut, then cleaned and squirted the shafts with WD40.
Three days later the croak was back. :evil:
Used Vaseline since and the bonnet opens more smoothly and the noise isn’t back.
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