Another new Xantia Owner
Moderator: RichardW
Another new Xantia Owner
Hello,
Today I bought a 2000 xantia exclusive as we needed a car desperately as the alfa 156 gave up the ghost on Thursday, anyhow the xantia is a great little car and is fully loaded with everything which is amazing for the money I paid also had 4 new spheres fitted last year, However a cheap car doesn't come faultless. When I was driving home I realised the heater blower didn't work at all which after having a quick look when I got home I realised the fuse had been removed because the blower was running at full all the time which after a bit of googling I found it could be a common fault with blower resistors- what would be easiest in everybodys opinion, try and fix the existing controller with 2 new resistors (I dont suppose anybody knows the exact resisitor spec that I will need, also the ABS light is on which again after a bit of googling found it could be the abs ecu which I just wanted to know whether the ecu could be replaced without the control unit as I've found a few for sale but there coming as complete units together also the cruise control does'nt work, I noticed that the abs and cruise control are on the same fuse would a faulty abs ecu effect the cruise control and last but not least this is a bit baffling, all the electric windows only work when the drivers door is open all the way which as you can imagine driving on the motorway and you wanna lower the window a bit could be a little tricky but I'm putting that one down to a loose connector in the door loom which I shall investigate tomorrow.
Sorry for my first post being a bit long and boring
Any help would be appreciated!!!
Today I bought a 2000 xantia exclusive as we needed a car desperately as the alfa 156 gave up the ghost on Thursday, anyhow the xantia is a great little car and is fully loaded with everything which is amazing for the money I paid also had 4 new spheres fitted last year, However a cheap car doesn't come faultless. When I was driving home I realised the heater blower didn't work at all which after having a quick look when I got home I realised the fuse had been removed because the blower was running at full all the time which after a bit of googling I found it could be a common fault with blower resistors- what would be easiest in everybodys opinion, try and fix the existing controller with 2 new resistors (I dont suppose anybody knows the exact resisitor spec that I will need, also the ABS light is on which again after a bit of googling found it could be the abs ecu which I just wanted to know whether the ecu could be replaced without the control unit as I've found a few for sale but there coming as complete units together also the cruise control does'nt work, I noticed that the abs and cruise control are on the same fuse would a faulty abs ecu effect the cruise control and last but not least this is a bit baffling, all the electric windows only work when the drivers door is open all the way which as you can imagine driving on the motorway and you wanna lower the window a bit could be a little tricky but I'm putting that one down to a loose connector in the door loom which I shall investigate tomorrow.
Sorry for my first post being a bit long and boring
Any help would be appreciated!!!
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Nick,
Firstly secondly, the heater is common issue and has been covered in this thread http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=24786
Firstly secondly, the heater is common issue and has been covered in this thread http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=24786
Steve
2008 C6 2.7 Exclusive in Mativoire Beige with Vitali Leather.
2019 C5 1.6 Aircross Flair+ in Platinum Grey with Claudia Rimini Leather
http://c6owners.org/index.php
2008 C6 2.7 Exclusive in Mativoire Beige with Vitali Leather.
2019 C5 1.6 Aircross Flair+ in Platinum Grey with Claudia Rimini Leather
http://c6owners.org/index.php
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I reckon a good 156 is a great car, especially in late GTA or sportswagon format.
The blower controller uses transistors - I understand UK electronic supply shops have little trouble furnishing an interchange part based on what writing is on the back. You also need machine screws and nuts for attachment of the new, if your old units are riveted on.
As to the ABS, it'll be a wiring fault somewhere between the ECU harness plug and the wheel sensors. Corrosion at the hubs causes the sensors to get crushed as the rust expands; they don't handle this very well. Sometimes the toothed rings on the hubs also break off or split.
The blower controller uses transistors - I understand UK electronic supply shops have little trouble furnishing an interchange part based on what writing is on the back. You also need machine screws and nuts for attachment of the new, if your old units are riveted on.
As to the ABS, it'll be a wiring fault somewhere between the ECU harness plug and the wheel sensors. Corrosion at the hubs causes the sensors to get crushed as the rust expands; they don't handle this very well. Sometimes the toothed rings on the hubs also break off or split.
Cheers for that, I was aware that it was common fault but I cant see how the contacts on the relay being a bit iffy would stop the fan speed being controlled as I thought if that was the case the fans wouldn't work all?Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 9:27 pm Post subject:
Nick,
Firstly secondly, the heater is common issue and has been covered in this thread http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=24786
The funny thing about the abs which I failed to mention in the post was that earlier today we needed to make a fairly abrupt stop and the abs kicked in so Im under the impression that the abs is working but the theres a fault on the line, could the abs still work with one of the sensors knackered ?I reckon a good 156 is a great car, especially in late GTA or sportswagon format.
The blower controller uses transistors - I understand UK electronic supply shops have little trouble furnishing an interchange part based on what writing is on the back. You also need machine screws and nuts for attachment of the new, if your old units are riveted on.
As to the ABS, it'll be a wiring fault somewhere between the ECU harness plug and the wheel sensors. Corrosion at the hubs causes the sensors to get crushed as the rust expands; they don't handle this very well. Sometimes the toothed rings on the hubs also break off or split.
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Hi nick
Watch the blink sequence on the ABS light.
This tells you if and at what stage the ABS is failing the start-up checks.
There should be 3 blinks followed by another 3 blinks.
Fault finding in an ABS can waste a considerable amount of time and money if you do not find out which system is fitted then apply the tests for that particular system. I think early Xantias are Teves Mk4 fitted.
The ECU's are pretty bomb proof but there is more than one power feed. Loss of any one will fail the start-up test.
For start-up the power feeds and relay are checked, the 2 microproccessors in the ECU then the resistance of the 4 wheel sensors. That set of checks is then repeated hence the second set of 3 blinks.
Sensor signals are not checked until the vehicle is on the move above a set speed with no brake application. So you do not have to worry about the fault being sensor signals or ABS rings until the start-up test is working and the ABS light comes on irregularly while on the move.
John
Watch the blink sequence on the ABS light.
This tells you if and at what stage the ABS is failing the start-up checks.
There should be 3 blinks followed by another 3 blinks.
Fault finding in an ABS can waste a considerable amount of time and money if you do not find out which system is fitted then apply the tests for that particular system. I think early Xantias are Teves Mk4 fitted.
The ECU's are pretty bomb proof but there is more than one power feed. Loss of any one will fail the start-up test.
For start-up the power feeds and relay are checked, the 2 microproccessors in the ECU then the resistance of the 4 wheel sensors. That set of checks is then repeated hence the second set of 3 blinks.
Sensor signals are not checked until the vehicle is on the move above a set speed with no brake application. So you do not have to worry about the fault being sensor signals or ABS rings until the start-up test is working and the ABS light comes on irregularly while on the move.
John
Last edited by xmexclusive on 26 Feb 2011, 22:42, edited 2 times in total.
Xmexclusive
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Thanks for that, Is there any way of bringing up the error code without a diagnostics tool? Like on a Toyota mr2 you bridge 2 pins in the diagnostics port and then you get corresponding codes which are the same principle but with the engine management light.Hi nick
Watch the blink sequence on the ABS light.
This tells you if and at what stage the ABS is failing the start-up checks.
There should be 3 blinks followed by another 3 blinks.
Fault finding in an ABS can waste a considerable amount of time and money if you do not find out which system is fitted then apply the tests for that particular system. I think early Xantias are Teves Mk4 fitted.
The ECU's are pretty bomb proof but there is more than one power feed.
For start-up the power feeds and relay are checked, the 2 microproccessors in the ECU then the resistance of the 4 wheel sensors. That set of checks is then repeated hence the second set of 3 blinks.
Sensor signals are not checked until the vehicle is on the move above a set speed with no brake application. So you do not have to worry about the fault being sensor signals or ABS rings until the start-up test is working and the ABS light comes on irregularly while on the move.
John
also some on here say test the sensor's from the ECU plug, i tend to find each of the 4 sensor plugs and test the resistance from each one with a multi meter,
the cables usualy fracture fronts were they flex every time the steering is turned, and rears were it flex's at the point it lays across the trailing arn pivot point,
regards malcolm
the cables usualy fracture fronts were they flex every time the steering is turned, and rears were it flex's at the point it lays across the trailing arn pivot point,
regards malcolm