This began happening since I adjusted the idle speed. I followed the procedure explained in the Haynes manual for that. I think the fast idle thermostatic valve isn't functioning properly because the idle speed varies more or less randomly and not according to the engine's temperature. I am now inclined to think that is the cause for the engine stalling but I'm not sure...
Let me explain the symptoms in more detail:
. this only happens when the engine is cold,
. on accelerating it suddenly loses power but I manage to keep going, then it stalls when I stop,
. after that, to start again it takes a lot of trying (it starts perfectly every other time)
. when the engine is hot (90º) it runs normally.
I've looked up on the Haynes manual on the Fault Finding but nothing seems the obvious answer. I thought it could be the fuel filter chocking but then, why does it work well when hot?
Any help much appreciated!
thanks
1.5 D Stalls randomly When Cold
Moderator: RichardW
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spider
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Grab the fast idle cable / lever and pull it towards the left (towards the centre of the engine) as though the cable was tight.
The engine speed should increase slightly.
Ignore manual. Set the end of the cable fitting to have a couple of mm freeplay when the engine is hot OR (if its new) set it to be just tight but not excessive when stone cold. Must be stone cold to do this properly. If in doubt, set it when hot to have 2 to 3 mm freeplay as you don't want it jammed on all the time. They do wear out. They are not expensive (iirc £17 sounds about right) for a new one. Used ones will not be any good.
The fuel will pass a bit easier when warm so I would say change the filter if in any doubt about its age.
You may have adjusted the anti stall too low.
Adjust the idle with a hot engine. Then when happy adjust the antistall one, re adjust idle if needed. Do not bother with shims etc.
Also the last piece of fuel pipe if not the bit near the filter is clear, watch for bubbles (check this first before touching anything else)
The TUD is not as dependent on the cold start idle speed being raised compared to the XUD, in fact the very last TUD's (02 or 03 plate) did not have this fitted at all.
I suspect a combination of lack of fuel and air ingress, this will cause it to stall and be difficult to start especially when cold.
The engine speed should increase slightly.
Ignore manual. Set the end of the cable fitting to have a couple of mm freeplay when the engine is hot OR (if its new) set it to be just tight but not excessive when stone cold. Must be stone cold to do this properly. If in doubt, set it when hot to have 2 to 3 mm freeplay as you don't want it jammed on all the time. They do wear out. They are not expensive (iirc £17 sounds about right) for a new one. Used ones will not be any good.
The fuel will pass a bit easier when warm so I would say change the filter if in any doubt about its age.
You may have adjusted the anti stall too low.
Adjust the idle with a hot engine. Then when happy adjust the antistall one, re adjust idle if needed. Do not bother with shims etc.
Also the last piece of fuel pipe if not the bit near the filter is clear, watch for bubbles (check this first before touching anything else)
The TUD is not as dependent on the cold start idle speed being raised compared to the XUD, in fact the very last TUD's (02 or 03 plate) did not have this fitted at all.
I suspect a combination of lack of fuel and air ingress, this will cause it to stall and be difficult to start especially when cold.
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
Thanks Andy for the quick response and great info!
I'm glad you didn't talk about the injection pump being the problem: I was also afraid of that because those are expensive to repair right?...
I'll do as you said, probably I'll have the time for that only tomorrow...
Just one question though: if I see those bubbles how do I fix that? Sounds bad... In fact the fuel filter is a little wet with diesel all around (I actually changed it some 4000 miles ago) so I may not have tighten it properly as I didn't have the specific tool available. It also leaks a bit from the bottom plastic part... Could this be causing the problem?
thanks again,
Bertino
I'm glad you didn't talk about the injection pump being the problem: I was also afraid of that because those are expensive to repair right?...
I'll do as you said, probably I'll have the time for that only tomorrow...
Just one question though: if I see those bubbles how do I fix that? Sounds bad... In fact the fuel filter is a little wet with diesel all around (I actually changed it some 4000 miles ago) so I may not have tighten it properly as I didn't have the specific tool available. It also leaks a bit from the bottom plastic part... Could this be causing the problem?
thanks again,
Bertino
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spider
- Posts: 3949
- Joined: 05 Jan 2010, 14:28
- Location: Derby.
- My Cars: Soon, I hope...
- x 77
- Contact:
If its leaking then its leaking 
, any leaks do mean air is getting in as well in 99% of cases.
Tighten it up a bit more, you can use a rag around it and tighten it by hand, its only a spin on cartridge like an oil filter really.
The plastic drain in the bottom, tighten that too as usually they are not tight on a new filter. I tend to check them before I fit them.
There are no special tools needed, although it is best to whip the battery or airbox out (battery probably easier if you have radio code) for access. I will admit I do use a oil filter strap to nip them up a little bit but there is no 'essential' need for this.
Tighten it a bit and wipe it clean. The only other thing I can think of is a faulty filter seal (rare, but I do remember one doing this, to be fair it was 1 in 100) or the old seal was stuck onto the housing so it now has two, the same as can rarely happen with oil filters.
Ensure you do NOT cross thread it as that gets expensive if you damage the threads on the head.
Sort the filter first as I bet this is the sum if not the majority of your issues, any air will cause issues with this engine (most derv engines anyway)
If in doubt, get a replacement filter and check the drain is tight (hand tight is enough!) then remove your newish filter and fit the new one. Ensure there is no large seal stuck to the underside of the housing first (rare but possible)
, any leaks do mean air is getting in as well in 99% of cases.Tighten it up a bit more, you can use a rag around it and tighten it by hand, its only a spin on cartridge like an oil filter really.
The plastic drain in the bottom, tighten that too as usually they are not tight on a new filter. I tend to check them before I fit them.
There are no special tools needed, although it is best to whip the battery or airbox out (battery probably easier if you have radio code) for access. I will admit I do use a oil filter strap to nip them up a little bit but there is no 'essential' need for this.
Tighten it a bit and wipe it clean. The only other thing I can think of is a faulty filter seal (rare, but I do remember one doing this, to be fair it was 1 in 100) or the old seal was stuck onto the housing so it now has two, the same as can rarely happen with oil filters.
Ensure you do NOT cross thread it as that gets expensive if you damage the threads on the head.
Sort the filter first as I bet this is the sum if not the majority of your issues, any air will cause issues with this engine (most derv engines anyway)
If in doubt, get a replacement filter and check the drain is tight (hand tight is enough!) then remove your newish filter and fit the new one. Ensure there is no large seal stuck to the underside of the housing first (rare but possible)
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG