Xantia - Hard Ride

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 15 Feb 2011, 22:22

Folks,

'95 non-hydractive.
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I have just changed 4 x corner spheres, as ride was becoming harder.
Accu one last changed 2005, and anti-sink 2009.
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Despite this, I can really still feel every bump in the road.
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There is a stark difference between how it's been in the past having changed the spheres (superb ride), and now.
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Have exercised up/down to full extent a few times....LHM level is at top mark at highest position.
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Did full filter/reservoir clean/Hydraflushing system 2009, and has recond pump fitted last year.
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If anyone has ANY ideas as to what I can try, I would really appreciate it.
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Many Tks, Steve

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 15 Feb 2011, 22:27

firstly is the car rideing at the corect hight,

secondly are the hight corector linkages/turrets nice and floppy free,

thirdly are the rear arm bearings creaking and or rear wheels / \ like this,

were did you purchase your spheres, new or recon,

regards malcolm

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 15 Feb 2011, 22:39

Malcolm,

Thanks for your reply.
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Spheres are GSF @ ~ £22
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I don't know how to gauge if at correct height or not.
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Will have crawl around underneath to try to locate/chk other bits you mentioned tomorrow.
Rgds, Steve

Post by **Peter.N.** » 15 Feb 2011, 23:01

The height is approximatly correct when the drive shafts are parallel to the road and rear arms likewise - see Honest John.

Peter

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 15 Feb 2011, 23:15

Tks Pete.....I'll chk tomorrow...

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 16 Feb 2011, 11:12

up on axle stands now:-
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"hight corector linkages/turrets nice and floppy free,"......
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If this describes all in that cluster of linkages, plastic clip,cylijnder thinghy just in front of the spare wheel, then I have always kept this lubricated.
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Must admit, nothing in that area is really "floppy free", but I have sprayed it all with lithium grease, including the springs.
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If there is another area I need to look at, please shout!
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With regards to ride height......driveshafts, and rear suspension arms (pointing along the length of the car) all seem horizontal at normal ride height position.
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tks, steve

Post by **CitroJim** » 16 Feb 2011, 11:38

A good guide to ride height is the finger test: you should be able to insert three at the front between the top of the tyre and the wheelarch and one finger at the rear...

It's a good rule of thumb...

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 16 Feb 2011, 13:32

Have 3 fingers front, 2 at rear.
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Struggling to understand Haynes with regards to rear "H2" measurement check.
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The text states...."between ground and the part of the vehicle underside above the rear rubber mounting", but the illustrations are as follows (apologies....P-bucket as rotated them 90deg for some reason!):-
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!st shows a portion raised from chassis...I dont have that.
2ns shows measurement up to the bottom of the "cup" holding the rubber mounting.
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If I take the 1st option actually onto the chassis that the mount is bolted to, it is 415mm (making my "L2" 140mm...out of spec, as '95 model should be 121mm) if I take the second option...it is 395mm.(ie making my "L2" 120mm...in spec)
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Please advise if can guide me.

MANY tks, Steve
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StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 16 Feb 2011, 16:55

normal position side view......185/65 R14 tyres.
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Does this look normal?
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Tks, Steve

Post by **CitroJim** » 16 Feb 2011, 17:06

No, it looks too high both front and rear!

Was that really three fingers at the front? You sure it was not three complete hands

Ride height makes a tremendous difference to comfort but before making any adjustments, go over your height correctors very thoroughly and check they're working properly by firstly sitting on the boot sill and checking the car sinks under your weight and then rises back up after 15s or so. Similarly, when you get off the boot sill the rear should rise considerably and then fall back to normal after 15 seconds or so. Repeat at the front in the same manner by sitting on the slam panel although the excursions won't be quite so marked due to the engine weight vs your weight. All tests with the engine running.

Until these tests are good, don't attempt to adjust height. If the tests fail the problem will be stiffness in the height corrector mechanisms or dirt in the height corrector hydraulic valves themselves, especially if the response to height changes is very sluggish - say, in excess of 45 seconds or so.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 16 Feb 2011, 18:59

Jim wrote
"You sure it was not three complete hands"

isnt that a houres'y messure Jim

Steve i dont think you will be able to feel the full floppy ness of the H/C linkage turrets in situe,

regards malcolm

Post by **Rhothgar** » 16 Feb 2011, 22:26

I can vouch for Jim's fingers!

We share the same womanly hands!

If 3 of OP's fingers are that thick, he needs to eat less. Perhaps I shouldn't say that - big fingers - big fists! OUCH!

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 17 Feb 2011, 11:51

Definitely too high at both ends; it looks to be in Intermediate or High.

Without insulting your intelligence, let's start at the beginning:
1. Given that the height control lever positions aren't marked, is it set in Normal? (from the front the positions are: Low, Normal, Intermediate, High). Low and High are for workshop use only. Intermediate is for only for negotiating obstacles at low speed (there's only about ½" of suspension movement!)

2. When you 'exercise' (Citerobics) the suspension, pausing for at least 20 seconds at each settings, does the car actually go right down on Low?

3. Is there a difference in height between Normal and Intermediate (the difference between Intermediate and High is quite small).

I too found the Haynes explanation complicated and confusing; there's a 're-interpretation' on my website and also a separate Quick Suspension Height Check that doesn't involve getting under the car.

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 17 Feb 2011, 14:42

Old Guy,

Thanks for that.
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Definitely in the Normal position...I have lots of movement at front, less (5-6") at the rear.
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Hi/Lo limits....will reach these with no issue.
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Difference between Normal and Intermediate....good point....suppose this will prove correctors are sensitive enough to very small changes....will chk this.
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I will next have some free time in a couple of weeks.
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I really wish there was more clarity in Haynes manual on how to measure the rear height.
The front is clear on how to measure, taking into account different tyre sizes.
I can get to the rear clamp on the anti-roll bar easily (front one looked bit more tricky from memory???)
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If only I could obtain information on what exact point I should be measuring to for the rear from somewhere (my cay is 10/95, so believe the "L2" should be 121mm...just don't know where to measure to as per previous post), I will put car up on stands (I don't have any ramps), douse clamp in penetrating oil, and try to shift it slightly, put car down + re-asses. (then repeat)
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It's really don't mind doing this, if I could be confident what I was measuring to.
It's gonna be cumbersone, but the only way I can see to do it safely.
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Many Tks, Steve

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 17 Feb 2011, 14:47

Check for any play on the dog bones too.
Recently replaced Cassy's rear one as it was quite loose. I was able to roll it left and right.
The new one is much tighter.