Has anyone had failure of this unit? I've got the 12v supply to the module
but it fails to light. I've read on other forums of the internal PCB being repaired by replacing the 150 ohm limiting resistors to the LED's. The problem I had was to actually open the the lamp assembly without damaging the lens or rear case!
Has anyone had any experience of this?
samjmann.
First post please be patient!!!
C5 Estate. 2003. High Level Led brake light
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2008 C6 2.7 Exclusive in Mativoire Beige with Vitali Leather.
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2008 C6 2.7 Exclusive in Mativoire Beige with Vitali Leather.
2019 C5 1.6 Aircross Flair+ in Platinum Grey with Claudia Rimini Leather
http://c6owners.org/index.php
samjmann,
The red lens can be separated from the black plastic body by carefully inserting a thin knife blade between the lens and the body. The lens has 8 rectangular holes (4 top and 4 bottom) which locate on 8 lugs on the inside of the black plastic housing. A bit fiddly and probably a risk of cracking the red lens, but can be done.
The light fitting itself consists of a simple pcb with four clusters of 4 parallel LED’s connected in series with the other clusters (16 in all). The most likely cause of the open circuit (if 12v appears at the connector when brake pedal activated) is ingress of rain water rotting the resistors connected in series with these LED’s to drop the nominal 12v down to 6-8v. It’s probably these resistors which need to be replaced and the fitting re-sealed. I used an old oil seal between the fitting and the car bodywork.
A replacement module may cost you £60-70. An alternative is to replace the series resistor (150ohm 0.5watt) for about 10p, a bit of soldering and a bit of your own labour?
Regards
Allan
The red lens can be separated from the black plastic body by carefully inserting a thin knife blade between the lens and the body. The lens has 8 rectangular holes (4 top and 4 bottom) which locate on 8 lugs on the inside of the black plastic housing. A bit fiddly and probably a risk of cracking the red lens, but can be done.
The light fitting itself consists of a simple pcb with four clusters of 4 parallel LED’s connected in series with the other clusters (16 in all). The most likely cause of the open circuit (if 12v appears at the connector when brake pedal activated) is ingress of rain water rotting the resistors connected in series with these LED’s to drop the nominal 12v down to 6-8v. It’s probably these resistors which need to be replaced and the fitting re-sealed. I used an old oil seal between the fitting and the car bodywork.
A replacement module may cost you £60-70. An alternative is to replace the series resistor (150ohm 0.5watt) for about 10p, a bit of soldering and a bit of your own labour?
Regards
Allan
Hi Alderman, 
Thanks for your reply, I was a cautious about separating the two halves of the light cluster without breaking the lens. Soldering on the the pcb is no problem, being a Tv engineer I'm more at home with this side of cars than the mechanics! Thanks again for all the advice, I'll kep you posted on how I get on
Regards, samjmann.
Thanks for your reply, I was a cautious about separating the two halves of the light cluster without breaking the lens. Soldering on the the pcb is no problem, being a Tv engineer I'm more at home with this side of cars than the mechanics! Thanks again for all the advice, I'll kep you posted on how I get on
Regards, samjmann.
C5 Hi Level LED brake light
Hi Alderman,
I managed to seperate the two parts of the light unit. The 150 ohm series resistor had gone o/c. I replaced this, but the unit still failed to light. After a few checks I found that there was a s/c across the feed to the LED blocks. This turned out to be a 10nF capacitor short circuit across a BZX61/10 protection zener diode.
Removing the capacitor, and the LED's all lit. The only reason I can think that the zener is fitted is to protect the LED's if the 12v supply rose dramatically.
Maplins keep the resistors 24p, each!
Thanks again for your help