Xantia Height Corrector Strip down - AGONY!

Post by **Rhothgar** » 16 Jan 2011, 12:38

Cheers addo for the link.

Looking at the photo, it looks very shiny and you cannot see any reinforcement in the rubber.

I'll upload one of my macro photos for comments. Whilst it is a kit and quite comprehensive, it is a bit pricy but I guess it's cheaper than a £150 corrector from GSF!

Post by **Rhothgar** » 16 Jan 2011, 12:57

You can see the general (presumably original) quality of the diaphragm that I managed to put a hole through.

The reinforced rubber shows its reinforcement on the outside. The critical point is that the rubber would need to be intact on the inside.

Oh dear! Not so intact. Naturally and I again suppose here that if there are fibres which traverse through the cross-section of the diaphragm then any fluid on the inside may transfer in small quantities to the outside behind the dust cover irrespective of whether there are holes or not.

Never having seen a brand new one of these, I would deduce that the cotton fibres on the inside are caused by age and natural deterioration through movement.

Post by **myglaren** » 16 Jan 2011, 15:10

Roger,
email your photo's to me (click the email button at the foot of the post) and I will insert them into your post.

Post by **Rhothgar** » 16 Jan 2011, 16:21

Which photos?

If you mean the ones for CitroJim those I have uploaded to my website and he may insert them into his Height Corrector guide.

Post by **myglaren** » 16 Jan 2011, 16:34

You mentioned earlier that you were experiencing difficulties uploading your pictures.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 16 Jan 2011, 17:07

Rog
i have never seen a H/C diaghram with built in re/enforceing, they usualy have an alloy coler pressed over the outer edge, which is a seperate part,

maybe what you are seeing is were the alloy has grown into the rubber,

regards malcolm

Post by **Rhothgar** » 16 Jan 2011, 18:47

citronut wrote: maybe what you are seeing is were the alloy has grown into the rubber,

regards malcolm

No! That's definitely fibrous matter in the photo above and it is within the diaphragm.

Must admit that it does remind me of how they used to make pipes in Triumphs.

addo · Post by **addo** » 16 Jan 2011, 20:04

CitroJim wrote:...I have found on all mine that I get no flow unless there's weight apparent...

The bachelor's lament; pressure but no flow.

Post by **Rhothgar** » 22 Jan 2011, 16:30

Thanks to all for assistance so far.

I spoke with Martin at Pleiades. Couldn't find a more helpful chap. Really chatty!

Managed to sequester a couple of diaphragms, two alloy rings and external dust cover from him. Cost a tad under £20 including 1st Class postage.

1st Class service as well, received bits next day.

Fitted today. No leak from rear height corrector.

Did the Hydrarincauge. Mate had an oil syphoning tool which uses compressed air. That made the job fun. NO LHM left in the reservoir.

Heads up for everyone. May be I am missing something but when I out reservoir back in it was sitting odd and knocking on the metal 'box' where the stud on the bottom of the tank goes into. It looks as though there should be a rubber washer or gasket there to stop this.

I lost mine taking the reservoir out as I didn't know it was there and it must have vanished into the depths of the darkness that is the Xantia engine bay never to be seen again. Used a rubber bulkhead grommet instead.

Used 5 litres of Hydrorincauge. 3.5 - 4 litres to fill reservoir and the other litre to bled all four corners.

Can't wait to get the green stuff back in and new spheres on in around 2 - 3 months. Maybe sooner if I can't resist.

Also, drop a couple of Lemfoerder anti-roll bar stabiliser links on from Euro Car Parts. Cost me £38 for the pair.

Struggling to get the nut back on one side. Does anyone know the pitch and nut size off hand?

19mm A/F nylocs on there at present but cannot tighten them up for the life of me so thread must be wrong unless there supposed to take old 3/4"

Post by **CitroJim** » 22 Jan 2011, 18:54

That bung the reservoir sits on is very critical Roger. Otherwise there's a good chance vibration might wear a hole in the reservoir over time.

I know the nuts on the droplinks are a bit off but not sure of the size exactly. It's always a good idea to renew them as the old ones are not necessarily the same and often become damaged in removal; I suspect this is the problem.

addo · Post by **addo** » 22 Jan 2011, 20:53

The Lemförder droplinks I received via ECP, had damaged threads on the ends from a worn or damaged die - perhaps our man is experiencing similar problems? Definitely a metric thread, though!

SwissSPEC · Post by **SwissSPEC** » 22 Jan 2011, 20:58

If you can't find the rubber ring that the lhm tank sits on, just make one out of a bicycle innertube, that'll probably be upto the job of stopping the tank from rubbing on its mount.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 22 Jan 2011, 21:19

Jim wrote
"and often become damaged in removal"

esepecialy if i attac them with an angle grinder with cutting disc

regards malcolm

Post by **Rhothgar** » 23 Jan 2011, 14:15

Citronut and Jim - you're both on the nail!

They did become damaged in removal. Judicious use of the angle grinder proved their downfall.

Found new nuts in my mate's stores but only after struggling with a vice, allen key and 19mm spanner.

Interesting point with the damaged threads for same part from ECP. I wonder if they are buying in 2nd quality parts.

The annoying thing for me is that I have a neighbour on our road who specialises in Citroens and Peugeots and he supposedly changed the drop links last year but there is no way that he did both sides.

I bought the drop links and I seem to remember seeing them on the car but one of e new links turned out to be faulty so he took it off and I went back to GSF and changed it. I don't think he refitted it. Car dontinued to knock going over bumps and undulations.

Anyway, new links on fitted by me. Fantastic result! Car feels different. More compliant. No knocking.