synergie wishbone removal

wiggie_me · Post by **wiggie_me** » 17 Dec 2010, 16:10

hi, iv got stuck trying to seperate the bottom nuckle. cant fit the "nut cracker" in there because thedrive shaft and abs ring is in the way.

any one got any clever ideas?

Post by **CitroJim** » 17 Dec 2010, 17:05

You could try the double hammer method...

Take two 4lb club hammers and strike them each side of the taper housing in a clapping action.

Imagine you're clapping with tow big hammers

Takes a bit of practice though but it can be effective.

Else that, buy a decent scissor type balljoint splitter

One like this:

wiggie_me · Post by **wiggie_me** » 17 Dec 2010, 17:23

i do have that exact tool as it happens, but cant use it without withdrawing the drive shaft. il give the hammer trick a stab

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 17 Dec 2010, 18:56

similar to Jim's sudgestion but just one club hammer strick the side of the arm right at the point the swivle goes through, you might need two or three swings at it, but it usualy works for me,

regards malcolm

wiggie_me · Post by **wiggie_me** » 20 Dec 2010, 11:29

well i got there in the end. tried all sorts of hamer antics. even tried jacking the hub up whilst the wishbone was straped down but it didnt budge. so i went out and bought my self a socket big eneugh to fit the hub nut (36mm ) pulled the drive shaft out the way and used the ball joint splitter. job done, now to do the other side.

however i did accidently pull the drive shaft out of the gear box, does anybody think its totaly nessasary to replace the seal?

cheers for the replies

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 20 Dec 2010, 11:36

You will probably get away without replacing the seal, unless it was damaged when the drive shaft came out. Have a close examination with a torch and feel around the lip for any nicks or damage.
If it's ok then just clean the seal up and lubricate the end of the drive shaft and the seal just before reinserting.

Dippy · Post by **Dippy** » 23 Jul 2011, 22:53

I was unable to detect any taper whatsoever when I eventually released the bottom ball joints om my Syn'

though my eyesight isn't 20 - 20 these days and there may be a very subtle taper ?

They are of the grooved - pinch bolt variety , amazingly tight though!

After drifting out the pinch bolts I was unable to affix a splitter that would exert a downwards pressure without destroying the ABS ring .

I too resorted to jacking up the hub , applying a penetrant -
( * petrol) leaving alone for 24 hours , then gently coaxing the open split ends apart tith a cold chisel .

The struts then sprag outwards when released , this also pulled the driveshaft away from the gearbox N/S , and have to be pulled inwards to mate with the new ball joints with considerable force.
( we used a ratchet strap ) when all assembled we also replaced the gearbox oil ( it was due a change anyway - and has a filler and drain ( magnetic) plug.

* never found a better penetrant - other than 1960's - 70's Coca -Cola . but you have to leave it a while.

New pinch bolts req'd with new wishbones . The vehicle will then require re - tracking for sure.