Wheel bearing on ZX

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the_weaver
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Wheel bearing on ZX

Post by the_weaver »

The offside front wheel bearing on my ZX 1.9D (1993) is making noises. I think it's on it's way out. I've started removing the swivel hub but I've come up against a problem. The top clamp bolt for the swivel hub appears to be rusted into place. I've removed the nut but the bolt won't come out. I think it's rusted at both ends. The clamping force is probably still there even though I've removed the nut. I've tried levering the clamp apart. I've tried hitting the bolt with a hammer (but not hard enough to damage the threads). I've soaked it in Plus Gas. The bolt can't be turned with a socket because one of it's faces sits against a machined face in the casting. This is to lock the bolt so you can do up the clamp bolt with only one ratchet handle. A bad idea really. I've got a new bolt. I was thinking about sawing through the bolt in the middle. That would release the clamp but I would end up with two pieces of bolt rusted in. I've got a replacement swivel hub with a good bearing. However I'm concerned that if I saw the bolt I might then find that the clamp itself is rusted to the strut tube. Does this happen? The tube might be painted under the clamp so maybe it won't be stuck into place.

To release the lower balljoint can I just lever the suspension arm down, after removing the lower pinch bolt, or do I need to remove the three nyloc nuts holding the balljoint into place and slide the balljoint out?

There's no mention of spring compressors in the Haynes manual. Can I use spring compressors to compress the spring and raise the strut tube upward allowing the balljoint to be lifted out easily without having to lever the lower suspension arm?

If I can't get the swivel hub off, can I remove the suspension leg complete with spring instead? How do I go about this? In the Haynes manual, the section on removing the suspension leg tells you to remove the swivel hub first. Can't I do it using spring compressors? Is it possible to change the wheel bearing with the swivel hub still attached to the suspension leg and spring? Is this a commonly used method? Would an engineering company who can press bearings in accept a complete suspension leg?

The protector plate mounted in between the lower balljoint and the swivel hub has fallen apart and I won't be able to get another one until after I re-assemble the car. Is this a safety-critical item or can I drive the car without it and fit it in a few days/weeks time? I'm wondering if the lower balljoint will be loose without the correct spacing provided by the protector plate.

Paul
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Post by handyman »

To remove the front strut on the ZX, it is nessecary to use spring compressors to shorten the strut length. By hanging onto the lower section, you are likely to bend or distort the top bearing plate.

Once you have reduced the strut length, you can either split the bottom joint from the hub or unbolt the three fasteners in the lower arm. Have you disconnected the droplink to the strut or arb? It is also worth splitting the ball joint on the steering rack. This allows more movement of the assembly.

If you are not going to re-use the hub assembly, put some heat around the bottom pinch bolt and drive it out with a suitable sized drift. If you have air power and a chisel gun, this will be a walk in the park. The joint between the bottom strut and the hub is 'kin' tight, it has to be. You would not want a floppy one, would you? :shock: Once the pinch bolt isn't, pinching that is, get a suitable drift/wedge to hammer into hub assembly to spread it, then a few smart taps on the hub assembly and it will come off.

Be careful not to bend, twist or crush the strut body, otherwise it will be useless.

If you need anymore encouragement, please post up, only too willing to help.

The little tin cover around the lower ball joint is there for protection. It is only held in place by tension and they all rust through. It is not a critical part and you will be extremely lucky to find a dealer with the part. From memory, it is NFP, ie, no longer made.

Handyman, :roll:
citronut
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Post by citronut »

i would just heat the area at each side of the pinch bolt/clamp and drift out the old bolt, then useing a nammer knock the hub downwards and off the strut,

if you disconect/remove in this order the hub nut, track rod end, drop link, calliper, lower swivle then last of all the strut top mount nuts,

the complete strut will come out without compressing the spring,

then the only thing with haveing the complete lump is its a bit heavier to handle,

i have never found it nececery to compress the spring or drive a wedge between the hub pinch clamp,

the last stut i had trouble seperatting fron the leg was on a FLEEST'Y (SKODA that is), were it was similar to your ZX, stuck solid and had to remove the complete strut with hub still attatched, then work on it on the bench,

this one had the added problem of a metal blade on the strut between the pinch clamp, and the bolt goes through that,

regards malcolm
the_weaver
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Post by the_weaver »

Thanks for the replies. The amount of work involved has increased from what I originally thought, so I've booked the car into a garage. I need the car soon, and I haven't got time to work on it myself at the moment. It's a bit too cold to work outside on anything other than a quick job.

Paul
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Post by the_weaver »

The garage did the wheel bearing. I've just had a look and I can see that they've damaged the rubber gaiter/seal on the lower arm balljoint under the swivel hub. I think I'll do the balljoint myself. What's involved in replacing the balljoint? Obviously I have to undo the three bolts holding it on. Will it slide out without undoing the hub nut or do I have to undo the hub nut to allow the drive shaft to move. How tight is it going to be, considering it was only put in yesterday? Will it just drop out? Is it a taper fit? Will I have to hit it with a forked wedge tool? How do I put the new balljoint in? Do I just push it in or will I have to use a hammer?

Paul
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Post by RichardW »

These ball joints are a right game.... You take the pinch bolt out and try and lever the arm down and it moves a bit then nothing. The reason is that the angle of the pin changes as it comes out, and it binds up. The secret is to push the hub in as you lever the pin out - it needs a really good push though, think getting your knee behind your elbow. When putting the pin back in, just a gentle tap from underneath should re-seat the pin. Getting the bolts undone on the arm is a game too - they are Torx on the top, usually rusted, nylocked on the bottom, and there is no room under the drive shaft. Other than that, easy!
Richard W
citronut
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Post by citronut »

with ZX lower swivles you just undo the three torx nuts and bolts, pull the swivle mount bracket out of the arm, there is enough movement in the driveshaft, but mind if its the N/S you dont pull the shaft out of the diff, place a tray under just in case,

it wouldnt hurt to take the pinch bolt out first so the hub does not mpove all over the place,

once the mountting bracket is clear of the arm the swivle pin should almost drop out, maybe with a little help,

also i find it pays to have both front wheels off the ground, otherwise the anti roll bar might be pushing the arm/strut you are working on in the wrong direction,

regards malcolm
the_weaver
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Post by the_weaver »

After thinking about this for a bit, I decided that it's probably the garage's fault. So I rang them up and they've agreed to sort it out for nothing.

Paul
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