Xantia gears gone mad

Post by **CitroJim** » 09 Dec 2010, 20:39

This picture here shows the MK1 gear assembly Isa. This is the whole lump you'll need to replace.

Basically, the PDF will be accurate enough for the removal and refitting of the assembly. The MK2 differs only in that cables are individually replaceable.

Removal and refitting is otherwise exactly as Kev Mayer describes.

i3 · Post by i3 » 09 Dec 2010, 20:57

ah,,ok...i see...looks like didnt understand the pdf properly, now re-reading it, the last part of "removal" say: "then remove the lever housing and gearchange cables as an assembly from under the car"
that must be exactly what youve just showed me, right?
ok, lets see if Chris has the same RP number as me...
thanks

Post by **CitroJim** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:05

i3 wrote: that must be exactly what youve just showed me, right?

That's it

Let's hope Chris has what you need... As long as his RP number is below 7998 then you're laughing. The RP number is the build date code and be decoded to tell to the day when your car was made. The CJ bit tells in which factory...

I'll be interested to see some pictures of the broken cable in due course...

KevMayer · Post by **KevMayer** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:16

Looking at the diagram, at the gearox end of the cables there are metal tubes which are crimped onto the ends of the 'inner' multi stranded steel cables. This is the inner cable which runs inside the plastic outer.

On my cables the crimp had come undone on one of the end sleeves. I drilled and tapped the side of the sleeve and fitted a 3mm screw to grip the inner cable and also applied a good metal putty. It worked well, and hopefully is still ok.

i3 · Post by i3 » 09 Dec 2010, 21:17

dont know about laughing Jim, hahah, you know how much of a novice youre dealing after that great struggle had just to bleed the hydraulic clutch cylinder! have a question for you though Jim; going on the state of the bolt on the front abs sensor, am expecting that when it comes to removing the exhaust, the bolts keeping it on are going to be completely rusted. how am i going to remove them? the abs sensor bolt head disintegrated away whilst trying to undo it, then just left a bolt in there. is there any techniques to avoid this if and when the exhaust bolts are discovered to be rusted?
thanks

Chris570 · Post by **Chris570** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:34

my rpo is 7567

and as for the exhaust bolts, if they break its no major problem as i always fit a new kit upon refitting them (unless the bolts were new) because a) i hate doing exhausts so the prospect of doing the job twice is a good motivation b) it makes the job easier

Post by **myglaren** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:38

Repeated drenching with Plus Gas prior to starting the slightly unscrew the nut/bolt, then re-tighten a bit, then unscrew, then re-tighten. Work them gently to allow the corrosion to release, keep applying Plus Gas. Use good quality six sided spanners and sockets.

Post by **myglaren** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:39

And as Chris says, chuck the old corroded bolts away, fit new ones as the old ones will only cause a lot of grief next time.

HDI Dave · Post by **HDI Dave** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:44

Seems a bit off a p.i.t.ass to replace the whole lot..but if that's the way to go then so be it...

Be interesting if you could find a workaround ala Kev's method,just replacing a cable with a bit of inginuity...

Exhaust bolts..strangely enough, although they are usually rusted to the nines, a bit of wd 40, (not on the bolt head ), and a decent socket,(normal, or one of the inner curved sockets that sit on the 'flat' part of the bolt head,not the corner) usually bring em straight off

If the head of the bolt rounds, file 2 opposite sides flat, and get a smaller spanner on it.

More extreme measures would be Mr Grinder/hacksaw through the thread of the seized nut/bolt (saves a lot of headache/grief and swearing lol) and replace with a new one, pence.

* edit- jakers, I really am getting old and slow at posting..3 posts while I'm doing mine! haha,the joys of age..

Chris570 · Post by **Chris570** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:46

HDI Dave wrote: More extreme measures would be Mr Grinder/hacksaw through the thread of the seized nut/bolt (saves a lot of headache/grief and swearing lol) and replace with a new one, pence.

A personal favourite when playing nice doesnt work.

Although i wont do it unless i can be 100% its safe to get in there and not damage anything else

Post by **CitroJim** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:49

Chris570 wrote: my rpo is 7567

Excellent, just the job.

KevMayer wrote: On my cables the crimp had come undone on one of the end sleeves. I drilled and tapped the side of the sleeve and fitted a 3mm screw to grip the inner cable and also applied a good metal putty. It worked well, and hopefully is still ok.

I was pondering how repairable it is so don't throw it away Isa, it's too valuable. Send it my way if you like. I like to try to fix things..

Agree too on the exhaust bolts but often they're not such a problem as they first appear. That's my experience too Dave, especially with liberal doses of Plus-Gas.

i3 wrote:you know how much of a novice youre dealing after that great struggle had just to bleed the hydraulic clutch cylinder!

But you did it! This job is a walk in the park by comparison

Post by **RichardW** » 09 Dec 2010, 22:16

If the 2.1 is anything like the HDi 110 then go steady with the exhaust to turbo bolts - I cut one off and then found there wasn't room to remove the remains, nor fit a new one. Nor was there really room to cut the head off the old one to free it. A frustrating few evenings resulted....

rmunns · Post by **rmunns** » 10 Dec 2010, 08:21

One night, many years ago, I reversed my Austin 1800 into our garage as normal. But next time I tried to drive out it became locked in both reverse and forwards at the same time. Luckily the cable adjusters were easily accessible inside the car and correcting the problem was easy.

i3 · Post by i3 » 31 Jan 2011, 17:39

still stuck on this..
picked up the replacement part couple of weeks ago.
have the car on axle stands at the front,,dont really feel comfortable as not sure if have placed them securely,,but any how,,cant find where to remove the exhaust from?
...have loosened a clamp on the cat, and the cat appears to be integrated to the front pipe/down pipe..now how to get to the nuts bolts on the front pipe other side which is on the manifold i assume..?

Post by **CitroJim** » 31 Jan 2011, 18:06

Do make sure the car is VERY firmly supported Isa. Axle stands under the sill jacking points is fine but rock the car a bit to be sure..

If you look at 'tother end of the cat you'll see it terminates in an oval flange with two bolts in the flange. The underside will have a spring, a cup and a nut. You need to undo the 10mm nut whilst counter-holding the 10mm bolt head. You need ideally an assistant to help with this.

keep a jack under the cat, remove the 10mm nuts totally, recover the springs and cups and the cat will then come away. Be careful as the springs and cups like to make a bid for freedom once the 10mm nut is off!!!

The joint allows some movement and you'll see a "Brillo pad" gasket on the end of the exhaust manifold. It's normally good to re-use so leave it in place.

You can do the job alone and here a specially bent 10mm ring spabnner to hold the 10mm heads of the bolts can be useful.

As already said, douse the while shooting-match in Plus-Gas well before you begin and all should come apart OK..

Then you can remove the heat shield to get at the underside of the gearchange assembly.