Citroen Relay engine swap XUD advice
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- CitroJim
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Warren,
In Paul's absence (I'm sure he won't mind) the two holes to use are the plain ones that will take an M8 bolt. I presume the second hole in a spoke you refer to is a tapped one and that's used (with it's opposite number) to attach a special puller to remove the sprocket from the pump taper.
As Paul says, it is absolutely correct that the right timing point is right on one of the pump's compressions.
The two plain holes are in time when one is at around 12 o'clock and the other is at 4 o'clock. In this position, the holes should meet up with tapped M8 holes in the pump cradle. Use two M8 bolts as timing pins and screw them in.
The reason there are two holes in the pump sprocket is so that the pump can be removed without upsetting the cambelt or the timing; the sprocket will 'hang' on the two bolts.
It's the same with the cam sprocket although on that sprocket there is only one plain M8 hole and a corresponding threaded hole in the head at around (I think, if I remember properly) 4 o'clock. I really can't exactly recall but you can't go wrong as there's only one tapped hole in the head that corresponds with the plain hole in the cam sprocket.
Have you found the crank (flywheel) pinning boss and corresponding hole in the flywheel to time and lock the crank?
Crank timing is roughly there when the keyway is at around 10 or 11 o'clock and you can slide a rod (I use a length of kunifer brake pipe) into the pinning hole and into the corresponding hole in the flywheel. The pinning hole boss hides behind the starter motor and is hard to see. Sometimes it is easier to take the starter motor out if you are not familiar with where it is.
In Paul's absence (I'm sure he won't mind) the two holes to use are the plain ones that will take an M8 bolt. I presume the second hole in a spoke you refer to is a tapped one and that's used (with it's opposite number) to attach a special puller to remove the sprocket from the pump taper.
As Paul says, it is absolutely correct that the right timing point is right on one of the pump's compressions.
The two plain holes are in time when one is at around 12 o'clock and the other is at 4 o'clock. In this position, the holes should meet up with tapped M8 holes in the pump cradle. Use two M8 bolts as timing pins and screw them in.
The reason there are two holes in the pump sprocket is so that the pump can be removed without upsetting the cambelt or the timing; the sprocket will 'hang' on the two bolts.
It's the same with the cam sprocket although on that sprocket there is only one plain M8 hole and a corresponding threaded hole in the head at around (I think, if I remember properly) 4 o'clock. I really can't exactly recall but you can't go wrong as there's only one tapped hole in the head that corresponds with the plain hole in the cam sprocket.
Have you found the crank (flywheel) pinning boss and corresponding hole in the flywheel to time and lock the crank?
Crank timing is roughly there when the keyway is at around 10 or 11 o'clock and you can slide a rod (I use a length of kunifer brake pipe) into the pinning hole and into the corresponding hole in the flywheel. The pinning hole boss hides behind the starter motor and is hard to see. Sometimes it is easier to take the starter motor out if you are not familiar with where it is.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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- Posts: 8061
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- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
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L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Single holes, lines up at around 4 o clock...
Anyone got a Pump Pully picture???? Should help this along!
Bosch OR Lucas, it does not matter, as both Pully to Back Plate positions are identical! The pumps ARE timed different, but this is done by the positioning of the pump. Not the pullys...
Paul
Anyone got a Pump Pully picture???? Should help this along!
Bosch OR Lucas, it does not matter, as both Pully to Back Plate positions are identical! The pumps ARE timed different, but this is done by the positioning of the pump. Not the pullys...
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
Brilliant gentleman, thank you. Unfotunately the whole day has been pretty much rained off for me so I took the time to do many other neglected chores.
Looking at the forecast for tomorrow, it looks cold as hell but sunny all day so I should have a good run at it.
I made my umpteenth run to the motor factors today and have all that I need now to re-assemble and change or top up all fluids.
Once again thanks for the advice and I will be back tomorrow night with the results.
Warren
Looking at the forecast for tomorrow, it looks cold as hell but sunny all day so I should have a good run at it.
I made my umpteenth run to the motor factors today and have all that I need now to re-assemble and change or top up all fluids.
Once again thanks for the advice and I will be back tomorrow night with the results.
Warren
Jim to answer the rest of your questions.
I have the cam timed up correctly and I have just looked at the fuel pump again and by some fluke I have it right. The only thing I have not done is insert the second bolt. I have decided to leave the pump in for now and to test it by cracking the injectors once I have it turning over.
I have got hold of another fuel pump in case this one is faulty so then I can just switch them. Without knowing about the second bolt, I could have created a few problems for myself with the sprocket moving on the one bolt.
I have found the crank pinning hole. I had already taken the starter motor out to jam a screwdriver into the flywheel when I undid the crankshaft bolt. So when I was told about the hole for pinning the crank it was not hard to find.
If I had asked before I undid the crankshaft bolt, I wold have used this pinning method to hold the flywheel still instead of jamming with a screwdriver (which did work but slipped quite a bit before binding on the flywheel).
Once again, thanks for all your help.
Warren
I have the cam timed up correctly and I have just looked at the fuel pump again and by some fluke I have it right. The only thing I have not done is insert the second bolt. I have decided to leave the pump in for now and to test it by cracking the injectors once I have it turning over.
I have got hold of another fuel pump in case this one is faulty so then I can just switch them. Without knowing about the second bolt, I could have created a few problems for myself with the sprocket moving on the one bolt.
I have found the crank pinning hole. I had already taken the starter motor out to jam a screwdriver into the flywheel when I undid the crankshaft bolt. So when I was told about the hole for pinning the crank it was not hard to find.
If I had asked before I undid the crankshaft bolt, I wold have used this pinning method to hold the flywheel still instead of jamming with a screwdriver (which did work but slipped quite a bit before binding on the flywheel).
Once again, thanks for all your help.
Warren
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- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
IF you are NOT removing the pump, theres no need to put both bolts in, just one, and in either hole too...
Sounds like your dooing well!
Paul
Sounds like your dooing well!
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
Making some progress despite the snow showers.
I have the belt on and the engine is turning freely without binding up, so looks promising.
I asked the question before but need some clarification.
The tensioner and arm on the vehicle are locked in place. Even with the nut holding it on undone by a few threads, it still does not swing around.
My question is if there is no up and down movement in the arm, why the need for a spring to tension something that is locked in position.
I am not doubting the answer I was given, but need to understand myself as I don't want to re-assemble everying only to find out the at the tensioner was shot in the first place.
What concerns me is that if there is no movement on this part, how do you tension the belt and how does the auto-tension spring work against a part that is locked in position?
Warren
I have the belt on and the engine is turning freely without binding up, so looks promising.
I asked the question before but need some clarification.
The tensioner and arm on the vehicle are locked in place. Even with the nut holding it on undone by a few threads, it still does not swing around.
My question is if there is no up and down movement in the arm, why the need for a spring to tension something that is locked in position.
I am not doubting the answer I was given, but need to understand myself as I don't want to re-assemble everying only to find out the at the tensioner was shot in the first place.
What concerns me is that if there is no movement on this part, how do you tension the belt and how does the auto-tension spring work against a part that is locked in position?
Warren
-
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Theres a SECOND Bolt holding the tensioner in place!
Its a 13mm Bolt RIGHT UNDER the Cam Sprocket... You need to feel for it, you cannot see it clearly, you may spy it if you look between the sprocket and head...
That also needs undooing.. as well as the pivot nut..
Paul
Its a 13mm Bolt RIGHT UNDER the Cam Sprocket... You need to feel for it, you cannot see it clearly, you may spy it if you look between the sprocket and head...
That also needs undooing.. as well as the pivot nut..
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
-
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
We know the plunger is not loose Malc, It Sprung out when he removed the top engine mount....
So my guess is the top Nut under the Cam sprocket is still done up..
Paul
So my guess is the top Nut under the Cam sprocket is still done up..
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
-
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Excellent news Warren, do let us know how it runs.
Looks like my little Volcane isn't going to be back on the road until the new year, the blasted post still hasn't delivered my tappet shims
Not that I really want to drive anywhere right now...
-Alex
Citroen Xantia Exclusive HDi
previously:
Citroen ZX Volcane - RIP
Peugeot 106 XN... stolen and destroyed by Kent Police
previously:
Citroen ZX Volcane - RIP
Peugeot 106 XN... stolen and destroyed by Kent Police
Woo hoo!
Well finaly today I managed to get everything assembled.
I had to make a few modifications along the way but I have just come in from the cold a happy man.
The battery was flat (seriously dead) so had to jump start from my other van. 5 minutes of charging, a turn of the the key and hey presto, it roared into life.
This started out as an engine swap, switched to a fuel pump problem and ended up as a timing belt issue.
At a guess, it looks like the belt slipped, knocked the timing out, the pistons struck the valves and locked in that position and the belt then continued to spin or just shread itself? Sound possible/probable?
Along the way I have:
1. Ordered the wrong parts.
2. Reliased that this is not the original Relay engine (bought an intake manifold and when it arrived realised that there was no port for the EGR valve pipe?! Ummed and arred until today when I just blanked off the EGR port and put the new manifold on. The old one has about 10mm gunk inside on all faces).
3. Learned a hell of a lot from some very knowlegable people.
4. Learned how to make snow (Put on coat to go work on van....starts to snow).
It's been a steep leaning curve for me and without the help of some of the people on here it would not have been possible.
Thank you to all who have shown much patience and helped me along the way.
Happy new year.
Regards,
Warren
I had to make a few modifications along the way but I have just come in from the cold a happy man.
The battery was flat (seriously dead) so had to jump start from my other van. 5 minutes of charging, a turn of the the key and hey presto, it roared into life.
This started out as an engine swap, switched to a fuel pump problem and ended up as a timing belt issue.
At a guess, it looks like the belt slipped, knocked the timing out, the pistons struck the valves and locked in that position and the belt then continued to spin or just shread itself? Sound possible/probable?
Along the way I have:
1. Ordered the wrong parts.
2. Reliased that this is not the original Relay engine (bought an intake manifold and when it arrived realised that there was no port for the EGR valve pipe?! Ummed and arred until today when I just blanked off the EGR port and put the new manifold on. The old one has about 10mm gunk inside on all faces).
3. Learned a hell of a lot from some very knowlegable people.
4. Learned how to make snow (Put on coat to go work on van....starts to snow).
It's been a steep leaning curve for me and without the help of some of the people on here it would not have been possible.
Thank you to all who have shown much patience and helped me along the way.
Happy new year.
Regards,
Warren