Xantia series I Heater Problem

farghi · Post by **farghi** » 01 Dec 2010, 17:25

handyman wrote:Farghi, having read through your replies, you make no mention of bleeding/purging air from the system. Air in the cylinder head will normally purge itself after a short period, once the stat has open, but the heater needs to be bleed.

Before you start changing things, it might be worth doing that. Easy enough to do, just undo the valve cap on the heater matrix pipes elbows and replace once all the air is expunged and coolant fluid is coming out.

I have resolved this very same problem in a number of cars and it has always worked.

Does your blower motor do that, blow? That may be faulty, especial if it is a Mk1.

It might also be worth checking the stat in a bowl of hot water with a thermometer. Surprising how many 'new' units are very inaccurate, although I doubt this is your problem.

Xac, they come in all different colours, black, natural, sliver, etc........

Handyman

Thanks Handyman
Yes the purging / bleeding is something I have done before with a 2 litre drinks bottle cut off placed upside down in the filler bottle then bleed, I'm gonna do it again bringing the temp up on engine and bleed on t piece
My blower does blow! oh er missus !!
You reference the heater matrix pipes bleed thingummy - there is only one ? isnt there? its like a schraeder valve cap ? Yes?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 01 Dec 2010, 19:43

the XANT does not have a heater valve/tap like the BX does,

regards malcolm

farghi · Post by **farghi** » 01 Dec 2010, 19:49

citronut wrote:the XANT does not have a heater valve/tap like the BX does,

regards malcolm

cheers for that

Xantidote · Post by **Xantidote** » 01 Dec 2010, 21:59

Farghi,

If your S1 TD is circa 1995, as mine, then you should have permanent flow of engine temperature coolant through the matrix at all times. If the heat isn't getting into the car, and your blower's operating OK, then how about checking the cable that transfers your temperature selection (blue to red) to the flap in the air ducting. Maybe the cable is kaput, and the flap it operates is stuck shut.

farghi · Post by **farghi** » 01 Dec 2010, 23:44

Xantidote wrote:Farghi,

If your S1 TD is circa 1995, as mine, then you should have permanent flow of engine temperature coolant through the matrix at all times. If the heat isn't getting into the car, and your blower's operating OK, then how about checking the cable that transfers your temperature selection (blue to red) to the flap in the air ducting. Maybe the cable is kaput, and the flap it operates is stuck shut.

Right O check tmoz
Cheers
farghi

farghi · Post by **farghi** » 09 Dec 2010, 21:45

farghi wrote:
Xantidote wrote:Farghi,

If your S1 TD is circa 1995, as mine, then you should have permanent flow of engine temperature coolant through the matrix at all times. If the heat isn't getting into the car, and your blower's operating OK, then how about checking the cable that transfers your temperature selection (blue to red) to the flap in the air ducting. Maybe the cable is kaput, and the flap it operates is stuck shut.
Right O check tmoz
Cheers
farghi

OK I have replaced thermostat, antifreeze, bled the system with the header tank fitted with 2 litre pop bottle (3 times until stat opened) Sat in car warmed engine up ... moved the heater control to "Bermudan" and waited...... and waited ..the ice built up on the inside of the windscreen so I presumed that in Bermuda they where having a cold snap.... .. I presume now its time to get in the garage and dismantling ..to install a new matrix damn!

KevMayer · Post by **KevMayer** » 09 Dec 2010, 22:44

You're assuming the matrix is blocked. I must say I've not heard of that before. You only usually need to change a matrix if it's leaking beyond repair.

Before going to the lengths of changing the matrix why don't you try to see if you get a flow through it. Can you drain the cooling system and then disconnect the hozes to the matrix and connect temporary hozes, one high with a funnel to pour water, the other low to drain.

The problem could be with the flap controls within the dash.

good luck.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 10 Dec 2010, 08:39

Kev wrote
"The problem could be with the flap controls within the dash."

to check if the coolant is flowing in and out of the matrix in view of the point of a partision in the end cap, you just need to feel the two heater hose's as the engine temprature rise's, if they both get hot you could suppose the matrix is clear,

or just drop the heater fan and pollen filter out, then you should be able to put you hand straight onto the matrix to see how hot it is getting,

regards malcolm

farghi · Post by **farghi** » 12 Dec 2010, 18:19

KevMayer wrote:You're assuming the matrix is blocked. I must say I've not heard of that before. You only usually need to change a matrix if it's leaking beyond repair.

Before going to the lengths of changing the matrix why don't you try to see if you get a flow through it. Can you drain the cooling system and then disconnect the hozes to the matrix and connect temporary hozes, one high with a funnel to pour water, the other low to drain.

The problem could be with the flap controls within the dash.

good luck.

One pipe , the right one looking at bulkhead is hot - the left one is cooler
Water flows in and out of matrix

The flap controls appear to move and its gets really cold when heater control turned to cold

The flap makes a dull thunk when lever is moved is there any other way to check its movement, can I jam it so it stays hot in cabin ?

Thanks to all who have contributed to my problem

FArghi

spliffy · Post by **spliffy** » 12 Dec 2010, 20:59

i had this prob with mine you could flush it and it seemed ok ( water flowed thru ) but when i took it out it was blocked probably caused by putting too muck rad weld in the system hope this helps

farghi · Post by **farghi** » 12 Dec 2010, 22:42

spliffy wrote:i had this prob with mine you could flush it and it seemed ok ( water flowed thru ) but when i took it out it was blocked probably caused by putting too muck rad weld in the system hope this helps

I have flushed it out several times still no heat
Farghi

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 13 Dec 2010, 09:58

If the left pipe is cooler there’s not enough water flowing through.
Venting on the T-piece isn’t high enough.
The left pipe has a vent cap.
No need to remove the cap, only loosen to let the air out.

spliffy · Post by **spliffy** » 13 Dec 2010, 20:41

sounds very much like a blocked matrix, even when the matrix is blocked it appears to be able to be flushed but the water is not actually going thru the matrix but thru the plastic instead. have you checked your thermostat because there is a rubber seal that goes around it and this can disintegrate and block the matrix this happened to me .

Grumpyme · Post by **Grumpyme** » 17 Dec 2010, 08:57

Hi,

I've not used the forum before, but I have a similar problem with a V reg. Xantia 1.8. Heater hoses feel hot, matrix flushed, system bled, thermostat changed, blower works, engine temperature gets to about 75, heater output warm at best.
Have not tried the controls to the flaps yet. My control for air direction e.g. demist, face, feet etc seems to work ok. Are the flaps also controlled by the temperature control? How do you get to the flaps?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

MJM · Post by **MJM** » 17 Dec 2010, 12:20

I have noticed that the heater in mine hasn't been as good as usual. I have also noticed that the engine temperature has been lower. Traffic on my local roads has been moving slower as well. I have come to the conclusion that the heater matrix, and internal fan, in the prevalent low ambient (-5 this morning) and slow speed

is more than capable of doing all the work of cooling the engine. I doubt if the thermostat is getting hot enough to open normally.

There may be a bit of unnecessary matrix panic setting in.

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Xantia series I Heater Problem

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