Bleed Nipple Rounded off

Guru Meditation · Post by **Guru Meditation** » 23 Jun 2003, 20:07

My brake fluid is in dire need of replacement as it appears as a very dark brown, dirty colour in the fluid reservoir and it is entirely unknown when the fluid was last changed (had the car 6mnths now). Problem is my offside front caliper bleed nipple has completely rounded off and I can't get it open (luckily hasn't sheared off). What is my best course of action? Can the bleed nipples be purchased separately so I could take the caliper off and disassemble on a bench and replace the nipple that way?
Or could I just pump new fluid through the remaining three parts of the circuit leaving just the offside front with old fluid. Of course if any air got in during the process I would be fecked.
I guess the only option is to do it properly somehow.
Guru Meditation

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 23 Jun 2003, 20:24

You are allready on track [:p]
- only a proper job is acceptable when doing the brakes [;)]
The caliper bleed nipples are buggers - since they are left for longish time without motion in harsh environment - they seize.
A hobbygas blowtorch patiently heating the nipple red hot - usually is the only sure remedy to get the bugger out.
New nipples are available all over at common parts dealers - observe you get the correct thread.
Tried it recently as per Bob Smith's advice - it worked for me on one of those impossible stuck nipples on my own caliper.
I used to remove the caliper and then clamp the nipple in a vice - then by carefully wriggle the caliper body - the nipple gave.
But the heating approach is much easier & safer to get the nipple out in one piece.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 23 Jun 2003, 21:42

In addition to all the above - I find it helps to give the end of the nipple a sharp, square-on tap to shake the thread.

ukmobileman · Post by **ukmobileman** » 23 Jun 2003, 23:40

A Couple of points i like to offer up on the removal of the bleed nipple( I am NOT saying my way is best or the only way - just it works for me!) - wire brush all threads up and soak with plus gas or simular for 1/2 hour or so - tap lightly around the bleed nipple on the caliper(the shocks loosens grip that the corrosion between the alloy/steel has on the threads) with the ball pein end of a smallhammer ,you can tap bleed nipple squarely on to the end a couple of times (be sure not to hit at an angle or you'll take off the nipple) then heat around the bleed nipple in a circle motion on caliper, as alloy/cast caliper will expand more than a steel nipple(doesnt matter it you get bleed nipple with gas blowgun) you only have to get it fairly hot, not glowing! then try to knock on a hex ( 6 sided)deep 1/4" drive socket of correct size, if you can or use a quailty pair of mole grips. If it will not move with only a small amount of force reheat and try again this will normally do it , but if you are not confident why not whip off caliper and visit a local garage and they will normally remove it for the price of a couple of pints!

ghostrider · Post by **ghostrider** » 24 Jun 2003, 05:12

what the other guys have posted about covers it, I have a pair of small (5 inch ) stillsons that I use having heated it and jarred it, one other thing you could do once you get it out is to run an M8 x 1.0mm tap down the hole to clean the thread, just go careful so you don't damage the seat at the bottom of the hole , and I usually use just a touch of anti seize compound on the new nipple, not sure it helps as it is dis similar metal corrosion that seizes them to start with, A&D keep the nipples about 53p each
Pete
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