xantia heated rear screen problem
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xantia heated rear screen problem
hi chaps!
heated rear screen on my xantia is not working, on investigating today i found that both the connections to the actual element on the screen are kaput! one is there but not making a connection and the other side one is missing! have managed to wedge a piece of wire in each side so they make a connection and it seems to be working. is there any way of permenantly fixing them as i cant see current fix/bodge lasting very long!
any thoughts anyone?
regards Steve (aka Carpysmith)
heated rear screen on my xantia is not working, on investigating today i found that both the connections to the actual element on the screen are kaput! one is there but not making a connection and the other side one is missing! have managed to wedge a piece of wire in each side so they make a connection and it seems to be working. is there any way of permenantly fixing them as i cant see current fix/bodge lasting very long!
any thoughts anyone?
regards Steve (aka Carpysmith)
- spider
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A new screen is the usual 'fix' (
You may be able to solder them back with care (caution: the heat from the iron may be enough to crack the glass)
I thought about the conductive silver paint, but using paint as an adhesive is not ideal.
You may be able to solder them back with care (caution: the heat from the iron may be enough to crack the glass)
I thought about the conductive silver paint, but using paint as an adhesive is not ideal.
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
- Old-Guy
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1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm) - x 17
Many years ago, I fixed the HRW on my company Volvo Estate after it got damaged moving office furniture.
Conductive silver paint, several coats allowed to dry really thoroughly before testing, successfully repaired a line of breaks (something sharp went a couple of inches diagonally down the inside of the glass) and the broken terminal (hanging loose) was refixed to the glass with super-glue (IIRC glass repair type activated by exposure to U.V.). To be on the safe side, the transition between connector spade and HRW element was well-coated with conductive paint to ensure that there wasn't a weak point to burn out.
When repairing tracks it's necessary to very carefully scrape off (just) the insulating coating on top of the actual metallic element for no more than 2 track widths either side of the break. Mask off all round with Scotch clear tape (unlike Sellotape or equivalents, it's designed to be removable). Ordinary masking tape is no good for this job as the paint will creep underneath leaving a ragged edge. Paint over the break and the exposed tracks.
You can't repair a big break or lots of breaks in one track of an HRW because this reduces that track's resistance so much that too much current flows through the repaired track and not enough through the rest.
Someone on the forum may well have a spare glass (model details?) and they or someone else will know how to fit it.
Conductive silver paint, several coats allowed to dry really thoroughly before testing, successfully repaired a line of breaks (something sharp went a couple of inches diagonally down the inside of the glass) and the broken terminal (hanging loose) was refixed to the glass with super-glue (IIRC glass repair type activated by exposure to U.V.). To be on the safe side, the transition between connector spade and HRW element was well-coated with conductive paint to ensure that there wasn't a weak point to burn out.
When repairing tracks it's necessary to very carefully scrape off (just) the insulating coating on top of the actual metallic element for no more than 2 track widths either side of the break. Mask off all round with Scotch clear tape (unlike Sellotape or equivalents, it's designed to be removable). Ordinary masking tape is no good for this job as the paint will creep underneath leaving a ragged edge. Paint over the break and the exposed tracks.
You can't repair a big break or lots of breaks in one track of an HRW because this reduces that track's resistance so much that too much current flows through the repaired track and not enough through the rest.
Someone on the forum may well have a spare glass (model details?) and they or someone else will know how to fit it.
2011 Grand C4 Picasso VTR+ 1.6HDi in Kyanos Blue
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
- spider
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Oh I agree that conductive silver paint is reasonable for repairing tracks. I think the OP's issue is the actual terminals have come off though.
EDIT... Sorry I just re-read your post properly, ignore me
EDIT... Sorry I just re-read your post properly, ignore me
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
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I found this:
http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/ ... e-glue.htm
But it says not for high current applications - you might get away with it on a HRW as the period of use is short....
http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/ ... e-glue.htm
But it says not for high current applications - you might get away with it on a HRW as the period of use is short....
Richard W
- Old-Guy
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1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm) - x 17
I have a damaged tailgate from my 96 S1, but I believe S1 and S2 are identical?
I had a look at taking out the glasses (because the rubber trim on the 'new' tailgate has been attacked by something - TFR?) but couldn't easily see how to go about it.
If anyone can offer expert guidance, I would be able to produce a spare for Steve.
I had a look at taking out the glasses (because the rubber trim on the 'new' tailgate has been attacked by something - TFR?) but couldn't easily see how to go about it.
If anyone can offer expert guidance, I would be able to produce a spare for Steve.
2011 Grand C4 Picasso VTR+ 1.6HDi in Kyanos Blue
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
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thanks a bundle guys!! glue looks interesting!! if anyone knows how to get rear screen out i would prob be interested in old guys offer ( ifeel a bit cheeky calling him old guy!!), it would be a bit of a trek for me but i may have to drive to cheltenham to pick my daughter up for a visit next month so could kill two birds with one stone maybe? (how far from cheltenham are you Old Guy?) and how much would you want for rear screen if you can get the blighter out?
regards Steve (aka carpysmith)
xantia 2.0 hdi sx estate (1999)
regards Steve (aka carpysmith)
xantia 2.0 hdi sx estate (1999)
- CitroJim
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Steve, the screen is bonded in and an absolute PITA to remove. I doubt actually that it can be removed intact but that's not to say it can't but it'll be tricky.
Just as tricky is the replacement of the tailgate. It's a 'orrible job...
I'd be tempted to repair the screen as already stated using silver paint but you don't want any stress on it so glue the terminal posts down very firmly perhaps on the tailgate itself and then run wires from them to the screen proper, burying the screen ends in silver paint.
Just as tricky is the replacement of the tailgate. It's a 'orrible job...
I'd be tempted to repair the screen as already stated using silver paint but you don't want any stress on it so glue the terminal posts down very firmly perhaps on the tailgate itself and then run wires from them to the screen proper, burying the screen ends in silver paint.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- Old-Guy
- Posts: 1798
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1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm) - x 17
I hesitate to contradict The Expert, Jim. I would wan't to have to fit the new tailgate without the help of another bloke to position it but I 'disconnected' my smashed tailgate single-handed in under an hour, about 45 minutes for the replacement, and with my son's help, had the replacement fitted and working inside 2 hours (rain forced an early stop for lunch, just as we had lifted the replacement into position!).
I've just put a set of instructions (text only at the moment) on my web page.
I've just put a set of instructions (text only at the moment) on my web page.
2011 Grand C4 Picasso VTR+ 1.6HDi in Kyanos Blue
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
- CitroJim
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I'm just going on the depth of the job on a hatch Guy... The rotten part is the wiring harnesses that need to be teased out and rethreaded into the replacement. I nearly lost the will
I reckon the estate tailgate must be a lot more straightforward. It certanly looks so on the basis of your endeavours :
Hey, I'm no expert on anything I'm a troll really who makes a lot of posts that look superficially convincing... I don't even own a Citroen.
--------------
Jim
'10 Kia Picanto in Silver
If I'm not here on-line then look for me under a rock somewhere...
I reckon the estate tailgate must be a lot more straightforward. It certanly looks so on the basis of your endeavours :
Hey, I'm no expert on anything I'm a troll really who makes a lot of posts that look superficially convincing... I don't even own a Citroen.
--------------
Jim
'10 Kia Picanto in Silver
If I'm not here on-line then look for me under a rock somewhere...
- spider
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Time for a quick tip then I think. Posted.CitroJim wrote:I'm just going on the depth of the job on a hatch Guy... The rotten part is the wiring harnesses that need to be teased out and rethreaded into the replacement. I nearly lost the will
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
- CitroJim
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Excellent stuff Andy Posted here. Thnaks for doing that, an excellent set of tips therespider wrote: Time for a quick tip then I think. Posted.
Electricians use a similar thing for pulling cables through conduits. In the trade they're known as a "fish". They're a long reel of something like monofilament fishing line about 2mm thick and having a high degree of rigidity.
Daft thing is I have one and never even thought of using it
Guy, in my post above I was being very flippant Please never be afraid to point out when I've got something wrong.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...