1999 Xsara head gasket

d3xt0r · Post by **d3xt0r** » 27 Sep 2010, 14:48

Well the head gasket has gone and im going to attempt to do it alone as i done my punto a couple of years ago, however i cant see were the head bolts are, there are some torx bolts on the cam shaft but i wouldnt expect them to be the head bolts?

Does anyone have a very basic tutorial on this model for doing the head?

regards,
d3xt0r

spider · Post by **spider** » 27 Sep 2010, 15:26

What engine ?

From the range (I'm a Peugeot man though) I would expect to find these engines:

Petrol engines:

There's the 8 valve TU (1.1 / 1.4 / 1.6)

Possibly later ones have the 16 valve TU's (1.4 and 1.6) , I think

16 valve XU engines (1.8 or 2.0)

Diesel engines:

XUD / XUDT (1.8 or more commonly 1.9)

DW8 (1.8ish) N/A only, usually late 98 onwards to replace the XUD (XUDT's were replaced with HDi's)

HDi (in a variety of varients, I'm not up on these, expect it to be 2.0 though)

Pic of engine bay will help if in doubt which type it is.

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 27 Sep 2010, 15:28

if it is a DW8 see the for sale area

Post by **RichardW** » 27 Sep 2010, 16:42

Previous posts suggests it's a 1.4, in which case, IIRC, the cam carrier has to come off before you can get to the head bolts. All covered in the Haynes manual, and the £10 spent on this would be a good investment for a HG job!

d3xt0r · Post by **d3xt0r** » 27 Sep 2010, 23:19

thanks for the replies guys, the engine is TU3JP 1.4

The torx bolts were actually the head bolts, 11mm socket fit, just wasnt expecting the cam bolts to hold the head aswell

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 27 Sep 2010, 23:35

ahh I may have misunderstood, but be a bit careful there.. I was just taking a spare v6 engine apart tonight.. 11mm sockets fits those bolts, but they are female torx really, 6 point as against normal 12 point sockets..

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 28 Sep 2010, 07:50

and thats not actualy the cam carrier on a TU engine, it's the rocker bar and carrier, as the cam slide's through solid line bored bearings machined through the head,

these are very easy heads to work with, and can all be done from under the bonnet without removeing the O/S/F wheel,

regards malcolm

d3xt0r · Post by **d3xt0r** » 28 Sep 2010, 13:04

thanks for your replies guys, it does seem like a straight forward under the bonnet job, my next issue is the tensioner on the belt.

how do i loosen it off, cant see which way it moves or if its self tensioner.

trying my best to do it alone but dont like to start removing things like tensioners incase i dont need to. if u get my drift.

cheers d3xt0r

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 28 Sep 2010, 13:19

it an excentric tensioner, has a small square hole in the face next to the centre 13mm locking nut, if its an ealyer modle the square hole is slightly smaller than a 1/4 inch square socket drive, and the later tensioners are 1/4 inch square,

peg the crank shaft with a lingth of copper knikle brake pipe through the hole in the crank case, this hole is at the front gear box end of the crank case and the peg goes through it into the engine face (back ) of the flywheel,

then peg the cam srocket, then let the tension off the cam belt,

on lifting the head off slide it forward at the gear box end before lifting it upwards, as these engines have wet linners and you realy dont want to distiurb them,

the crank shaft pully you undo the thee/four 10mm bolts and not the large centre bolt,

regards malcolm

d3xt0r · Post by **d3xt0r** » 28 Sep 2010, 14:21

thanks for the advice citronut.

on autodata i found the timing belt instructions and it says you just loosen the nut a little on the tensioner. thiss worked and i managed to get the belt off. ive now got the head off and too be honest it didnt look like it had gone but better safe than sorry, need to take the gasket back and get the kit, might aswell replace them all while its in bits.

thanks again

d3xt0r

d3xt0r · Post by **d3xt0r** » 29 Sep 2010, 12:27

Well the good news was i was just about done.

bad news is i turned engineusing cam shaft cog and the belt jumped. (i hadent pushed tensioner across before tightening). Now my timeing is out and i dont have a clue how to get it right as i didnt mark the bottom just the cam shaft cog.

I know 2 of the 4 pistons were flush with the top of the engine when i done head and i also no the exact position of cam shaft cog.

Any ideas?

d3xt0r

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 29 Sep 2010, 12:48

Timing Locking Holes in the Block like the XU engines???

Ive not worked on a TU, so cant offer any more then that..

Paul

Post by **CitroJim** » 29 Sep 2010, 12:54

Have a butchers at my website. That bit of it shows how to replace a TU timing belt and shows the index holes. It's easy to bring it all back to time...

Not as bad as when I replaced a TU for someone back along. I suggested it would be good to have a new cambelt and waterpump before fitting and being helpful, the owner stripped off the old cambelt for me. I thought he was being helpful but I had to time that engine from scratch and first principles

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 29 Sep 2010, 13:50

did you not peg the flywheels i stated earlier,

with the cam belt on you must NEVER NEVER try rotatting the engine via the cam sprocket,

with the cam belt off gently turn the cam if possible whichever direction you can without it comeing to a point were it wont move,

at this point tryrotateing the crank till the pistons/valves clear each other, just enough to peg the cam,

now turn the crank whichever direction it will go (BUT VERY VERY GENTLE), because you turn it till the piston just wont go any further without any force what so ever,

remove the spark plugs from cylider 1 or 4, hold a long thinn screw drive just in the plug hole and very gently rotate the crank till you just feel the piston contactting the screw driver, bring the piston right to the top of ots stroke, now peg of the crank which you might need to very slightly rock the crank till the peg drops in,

now re/fit the cam belt, take out both locking pegs, rotate the enginge two full turns of the crank, then check the locking peg still go in, you might just need to slightly rock the crank again to the peg in the flywheel,

regards malcolm

d3xt0r · Post by **d3xt0r** » 29 Sep 2010, 18:36

citronut wrote:did you not peg the flywheels i stated earlier,

with the cam belt on you must NEVER NEVER try rotatting the engine via the cam sprocket,

with the cam belt off gently turn the cam if possible whichever direction you can without it comeing to a point were it wont move,

at this point tryrotateing the crank till the pistons/valves clear each other, just enough to peg the cam,

now turn the crank whichever direction it will go (BUT VERY VERY GENTLE), because you turn it till the piston just wont go any further without any force what so ever,

remove the spark plugs from cylider 1 or 4, hold a long thinn screw drive just in the plug hole and very gently rotate the crank till you just feel the piston contactting the screw driver, bring the piston right to the top of ots stroke, now peg of the crank which you might need to very slightly rock the crank till the peg drops in,

now re/fit the cam belt, take out both locking pegs, rotate the enginge two full turns of the crank, then check the locking peg still go in, you might just need to slightly rock the crank again to the peg in the flywheel,

regards malcolm

I pegged the cam when i took the head off so it wouldnt move, it was fine when i put the belt on but i forgot to pull the tensioner back over before tightening it so the belt jumped the cam. so the engine is slightly forward from the cam if that makes sense.

You cannot see the bottom fly wheel to lock it so i was just careful not to let the flywheel move.

Ill read your instructions but i think ill have to reset the whole lot. is that what your instructions do ? reset it. if not my brother's father in law will do it for me. I was just adament to do it alone. but dont mind asking for help if i get stuck.

cheers
d3xt0r