XM 2.1 Rebuild

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Post by G4EIY »

Hi Steve,

Shot in the dark, brief look over the pictures, looks like you have rebuilt the Bosch pump...

If so, Have you got the banjo bolts mixed up, the one marked "OUT" must go on the out flow, this has a very small hole to provide the internal pressure.

Regards
Brian
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Post by steelcityuk »

Hi All.

Thanks for the ideas.

Here's a quick recap. Both engines had Bosch pumps of exactly the same model number. After rebuilding my own it wasn't passing fuel so to speed things along I swapped the pump, injectors and fuel filter from the working spare engine in the car engine. I didn't swap over the injector pipes because the car engines injector pipes looked to be in better condition. I didn't use the car engines injectors because they needed a service and the fuel filter housing on the car weeped fuel from the primer if pumped.

If I'm missing the obvious please let me know.

Steve.
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Post by G4EIY »

Hi Steve,

Another possibility is air getting into the diesel..

If you can fit two small sections of clear tube, one in the feed to the filter and another between the filter and pump.

Prime and look for any visible air bubbles.

Good luck
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Post by steelcityuk »

Thanks for the tip Brian.

In yet another attempt to fix the problem I decided to have a quick tea and get straight on with the XM. It occurred to me whilst at work that the diesel in the tank was half veg oil and had been standing for a year, that the last time I'd had a diesel behave that badly was when I bought a bad batch of bio, that time it had been the 2.5 TD. On that trip to work it was hard to start, smoked like a demon and was gutless. When I stripped the fuel filter and pick up on the 2.5 I found it was covered in slime.

Here's the photo of the 2.5s filter and pick up -
Image

Image

Image

So with this in mind I rigged up an inline fuel filter, tubing and funnel suspended from the bonnet 'hook'. I filled the filter with fresh real diesel and held my breath. No difference.

In a fit of desperation I decided to swap the injectors back to the originals.

Just to recap, the original injectors weren't used because they ended up going through the hot caustic bath at the engine shop - at least I think they did, the head was returned with the injectors still in place. The injectors I put into the engine during the rebuild came from the spare engine that I'd seen running OK.

It fired up after a bit of cranking but didn't sound much different, a quick check under the bonnet revealed a leaking injector/pipe joint, this was nipped up and the others checked again. This time the engine fired up easily and ticked over without blipping the throttle. So I slackened off the pump and rotated it to check it's effect. Sure enough as it was advanced the engine took on a hard knocking sound and sped up, when the timing was retarded by rotating the pump the revs dropped and the engine became quieter. In the end I locked off the pump at the markings I made when I timed it up using the dial gauge. At this it ticks over fine, revs OK, sounds reasonable but smokes a little.

Following this success, this faulty injectors are going in for a service to the local Bosch diesel specialist and rebuilding the drivetrain and hydraulics continues. Once the car is mobile again I can get the spare engine stowed in the garage and rebuild that.

I suppose the question is what happened to the injectors that stopped them working as they should? Did removing them with the impact wrench effect them, could it have loosened gunk inside them that blocked the tips? I'd have never believed that those injectors could have caused so much trouble unless I'd seen it myself.

Steve.
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Post by myglaren »

Great that you got it going without having to tear it all to bits again.
Weird about the injectors though.
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Post by imperial21 »

Could you have suffered congealed fuel in the injectors blockind the spray pattern ?
My dad suffered a similar trouble with his Kangoo, the timing belt snapped, It took about a month to get the car runing in that time the injectors gave up and had to be sent off to be reconditioned once re installed it was fine ! The bloke who recon ed them said it was common for the injectors to fail when they have removed them from the car.
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Post by G4EIY »

Hi Steve,

That's brilliant news...

The injectors are easy to dismantle, clean and re assemble, just have to be ultra clean and clinical as the tolerances are very close.

Cheers
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Post by steelcityuk »

Here's how I rebuilt the parking brake mechanism.

BIG thanks to ANDERS for the how to info!

Step one -
Image

Step two -
Image

One down, one to go! The hub nut still needs torquing down then the cap and pin fitting.
Image

Here's the bumper insert back in place after a good rub down, painting and the cavity waxing.
Image

Steve.
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Post by steelcityuk »

On Saturday I collected a carton of Hydraflush from GSF, so more work could be done. Brakes finished on both sides, parking brake cables worked into place. Wheel arch liners, left side ABS sensor bought off Ebay for £40 cabled tied out of the way - it wouldn't fit in the hub carrier hole but the ABS computer was happy it could see it. Cleaned out the LHM tank again (it was full of dust after a year in the shed) filters OK. Dug out a couple of spheres for the front struts. Topped up tank with Hydraflush and started the engine, it took 10 minutes or more to get the pump primed and pumping fluid. Steadily the car rose up, no creaking or leaking so that was good. Next task was to check to see if the front right flexible joint leaked so I propped the brake pedal with the jack handle. No leak! Next I bled the brakes for 5 minutes each back into the LHM tank to help circulate the Hydraflush. Wheels on next and move the car onto the front drive so that I could sweep up and get better all round access.

I spent a few hours on Sunday doing a few bits and pieces, checked the front right caliper and had to rotate the piston to allow the 'nub ' on the brake pad to sit in the piston notch.

Monday was a near full day putiing back all the little bits and pieces, washer filler 'trumpet', cleaned out the scuttle, oiled up the various linkages in the scuttle, replaced the plastic trim. Next came a thorough wash of the car to remove all the moss, algea and general dirt that had built up, a toothbrush came in usefull around the rubbers and door trims. The Lacquer (?) has really started to peel along the edge of the left front wing and door. A fair amount of time was spent trying to clean up the black but now grey plastic, unfortunately I've run out out Autoglym Bumper stuff, it's the best thing I've found upto now for bringing trim back to life.

On Tuesday it was time to tackle the front left ABS sensor that wouldn't fit in the hub carrier. A gentle sanding with a sanding drum on a rotary tool soon had that problem fixed. Now although the part number I'd bought the sensor under matched what I needed it was obviously different, the lead was slightly shorter and the rubber mountings fastened to the lead were different and in the wrong places. With a new Stanley knife blade I carefully cut through the rubber mountings and peeled them off, I did the same with the broken sensor, glued the mounting from the broken sensor lead around the replacements lead being careful to glue the rubber to itself and not the lead to allow adjustment. This allowed me to thread the sensor lead into the same path as the original. Now was the time to find out if the sensor would work with the wheels moving. With the whole front of the car jacked up I could spin the wheels, in first and second at idle no faults showed but I thought maybe the ABS ECU wouldn't until 15 MPH and above had been registered. Something an MOT tester told me once about a note on their system about XM ABS systems, which had proved to be true, during the MOT of the 2.5 the ABS light had come up during the braking test, the note on their system said to take the vehicle on the road to increase the rate of rotation of the wheels, sure enough the light went out and the 2.5 passed. Anyhow in third I took the 2.1 up to 25 MPH and no faults showed. So the two things that I thought would be a problem were fine. That ABS sensor was £40 well spent.

Steve.
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Post by MikeT »

steelcityuk wrote: A fair amount of time was spent trying to clean up the black but now grey plastic, unfortunately I've run out out Autoglym Bumper stuff, it's the best thing I've found upto now for bringing trim back to life..
A neat trick I picked up a few years back to renovate faded black bumpers - use a heat source like a pen torch or hairdryer. You'll be amazed 8-)



Obviously, be careful with heat around glass and rubber, etc.
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Post by steelcityuk »

Thanks Mike, that's incredible! It looks to be just what the bumpers need.

Steve.
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Post by robert_e_smart »

This is a good tip.

I have done it to a couple of Xms now. Be carefeul when working near the paint edge.

I have moved on from this after someone advising the use of boiled linseed oil on Club Xm:

Here are the results on my 2 1990 Xms.

Image

Applied very sparingly and the bumper wiped over with a clean rag once applied, and left to dry over night, the bumpers, and the all important door mirrors and scuttle panels can be renovated for very little cost.

The heatgun is good, but there are too many risks, on the Xm estate I did before the accident, it was hard to get a consistent finish. But going by the amount of work you have done on this car, go for the boiled linseed oil.
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Post by MikeT »

I agree using heat is not a perfect solution but is a quick and easy (precautions observed) way to improve a faded bumper with pleasing results for little effort. It doesn't last either though the cars I used it on weren't in my posession long enough to know if re-applications work as well?

I assume heat brings oil to the surface so re-oiling might be a far better and more permanent remedy.

When you say boiled linseed oil, is it heated to apply the oil hot or a pre-treatment that can allow application even when cooled?
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Post by steelcityuk »

This sounds good too. I'll check it out.

The XM passed it's MOT on Tuesday afternoon with just an advisory for lack of handbrake reserve but apparently it was very well balanced so I must have got the rebuild OK.

Driving to the MOT it smoked alarmingly during the first few attempts at hard acceleration. I had to stop within half a mile to adjust hydraulic pump belt tension but after that it was fine. The smoke died away so I guess it was the extra oil I put into the cylinders to protect them during the rebuild.

So how does it go? Well it doesn't feel that powerful, maybe that's because I'm used to the A Class which develops around 120 bhp or maybe there's a boost leak. The turbo does whistle somewhat so I need to hook up a proper gauge and see what's what. It could be that I've missed tightening a hose clip. At some stage I'm going to set the pump timing with the dial gauge so that I know it's right, I marked the pump mounting when I setup the other pump but I'm not sure that means it's right for the replacement pump.

The clutch seems smooth and reasonably light, hopefully a few miles on it will improve it further. The brakes seem a little strange but that could be because I haven't driven a Citroen for over a year. I think that a further bleeding session would be a good idea in any case.

The real niggle at the moment is the lack of a floating ride, I've yet to systematically check it over but it feels as if it's not going into 'soft' mode. I've dug out the Lexia but the laptop needs setting up again but that shouldn't take long. I don't know that much about Hydractive 1 (1.5) but it can't be that different to Hydractive 2, just 1 controlling solenoid instead of 2.

So it's seem that I'll be at Wetherby this weekend. I hope to see some of you there!

Steve.
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Post by f00lzz »

My Son has recently purchased a Mk3 Golf GTI which has a fair amount of black plastic trim which was patchy and grey in areas. He was advised to use Peanut Butter spread and to his suprise it worked brilliantly... two weeks along and it still looks good.
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