Xantia rear not rising (split from strut top thread)

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bigblackfalco
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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

Finally got round to changing my O/S complete Mk1 strut for a T reg Mk2 version.
Also changed both of the front spheres.
Complete operation was done within 2 hours. Only required a litre of LHM fluid.

Right ... more questions .... now that I've got new spheres on the front, they've highlighted that the rears could do with replacing too. They're not totally gone, but are firmer over bumps etc.
Also I've noticed that the back of the car seems a little low .... could this be part and parcel of the same thing. Infact when the engine switches off, I think the rear is dropping slightly?

Another issue I have is a fair bit of worn bush/es noise on the N/S front wheel when it's going over uneven road surface .... this problem became progressively worse due to my front spheres being kaput!!
What is the most common bush noise on the front wheel??

cheers chaps ... you are a mine of excellent info :0)
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Post by CitroJim »

The noise first... If it's a kind of rattle then it'll almost certainly be the ARB drop links. Very common and an easy swap. Common because there's some really poor quality pattern parts knocking around and they have a short life.

Yes, change the rear spheres but it's unlikely they're the cause of the ride height issue but might be the cause of the slight drop when the engine goes off, as could a flat accumulator. Listen for the tick rate from the pressure regulator and if less than 30 seconds between ticks, it's flat. Else, do the "sit in the boot" test.

If you swap the rear spheres, be sure to follow the special procedure applicable to them: "crack" them under full pressure on high and then depressurise and remove. All covered under the Spheres etc. sticky in this area of the forum.

Also swap the anti-sink sphere at the same time. Although it has no effect on sinking (or only marginally so) and no effect on ride it is often overlooked but it does perform a valuable role as a rear brake accumulator.

Do fully overhaul your rear height corrector mechanism before doing anything more with the low ride height. It rarely needs to be adjusted and most problems can be laid at the door of a sticky and tight height corrector mechanism in need of some TLC.
Jim

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bigblackfalco
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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

CitroJim wrote:The noise first... If it's a kind of rattle then it'll almost certainly be the ARB drop links. Very common and an easy swap. Common because there's some really poor quality pattern parts knocking around and they have a short life.

Yes, change the rear spheres but it's unlikely they're the cause of the ride height issue but might be the cause of the slight drop when the engine goes off, as could a flat accumulator. Listen for the tick rate from the pressure regulator and if less than 30 seconds between ticks, it's flat. Else, do the "sit in the boot" test.

If you swap the rear spheres, be sure to follow the special procedure applicable to them: "crack" them under full pressure on high and then depressurise and remove. All covered under the Spheres etc. sticky in this area of the forum.

Also swap the anti-sink sphere at the same time. Although it has no effect on sinking (or only marginally so) and no effect on ride it is often overlooked but it does perform a valuable role as a rear brake accumulator.

Do fully overhaul your rear height corrector mechanism before doing anything more with the low ride height. It rarely needs to be adjusted and most problems can be laid at the door of a sticky and tight height corrector mechanism in need of some TLC.
yes that's it ... very rattly!!

Is there a physical measurement of correct height of the rear of car??

Is there a section on here where the TLC on height corrector is described?

cheers.
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Post by CitroJim »

A rough height check can be done as follows:

Front, engine running, normal ride height, three fingers between top of tyre and wheelarch.

Rear is the same but one finger.

Do a search on rear AND height AND corrector and you'll find a good few articles..

This one is a good starting point... There are many, many more..
Jim

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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

CitroJim wrote:A rough height check can be done as follows:

Front, engine running, normal ride height, three fingers between top of tyre and wheelarch.

Rear is the same but one finger.

Do a search on rear AND height AND corrector and you'll find a good few articles..

This one is a good starting point... There are many, many more..
Right I need to get this issue sorted as just found out the MOT has expired!!
The front ride height is fine, but the rear is gradually getting lower ... maybe minus 3 fingers under the top of the wheel.
I noticed a few people flashed their lights at me the other night ... obviously my lights are now shining rather high!!

Will the Rear HC just need a damn good clean/lube or will it be something more sinister.
Not entirely sure that rebuilding/replacing the rivets with turned down bolts is within my scope!!
Thanks.
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Post by Xaccers »

Most likely just a good clean and lube.
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Post by myglaren »

Doesn't Martin at Pleiades repair/refurbish and service exchange height corrector carriages?
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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

Have spent the day pulling the rear HC apart. Pretty badly corroded and seized.
I removed everything including the height corrector as it was covered in yukky stuff and i wanted to make sure it wasn't leaking etc.
Just put everything back together but now the rear suspension will not rise at all.
Have left engine running and put between highest and lowest height settings.
Still nothing!
Any ideas anyone??
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Post by myglaren »

Is it clamped to the ARB in the correct position - there is a recent thread dealing with it.
Is it actually moving?
Are the fluid pipes connected the right way round?
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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

myglaren wrote:Is it clamped to the ARB in the correct position - there is a recent thread dealing with it.
Is it actually moving?
Are the fluid pipes connected the right way round?
No movement at all!
I didn't touch the ARB connection.

I am actually wondering if I've put the pipes back on the right way!!?
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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

bigblackfalco wrote:
myglaren wrote:Is it clamped to the ARB in the correct position - there is a recent thread dealing with it.
Is it actually moving?
Are the fluid pipes connected the right way round?
No movement at all!
I didn't touch the ARB connection.

I am actually wondering if I've put the pipes back on the right way!!?
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Post by Xaccers »

Excellent photo, you've just confirmed that Cassy's rear HC is leaking out the back.
Did you fit new seals when you put it back together and make sure the old seals were removed?
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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

Xac wrote:Excellent photo, you've just confirmed that Cassy's rear HC is leaking out the back.
Did you fit new seals when you put it back together and make sure the old seals were removed?
No to new seals ... I didn't plan ahead :(

I'm sure the pipes are connected the right way, i tried disconnecting the 2 that are side by side but the angles suggest they are in the correct holes!

Run out of daylight now.

Think I could do with someone with a bit more experience having a closer look.

I could only see one logical way for the height corrector to height adjuster to fit together. Hope I got that part right!
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Post by MikeT »

Only yesterday did I find (after playing with the ARB clamp) the height corrector would not bring the car down from full height. I tried in vain to force it down, shifting control lever in cabin, moving height corrector directly etc but it would not move.

After a gathering of thoughts and second attempts, I heard the LHM gushing through and she finally lowered.

So my advice is give it more time. I suspect I made the suspension (or the valve) travel a bit too far or forcibly making it sitck for a worrying ten minutes or so.

As yours is on low, set the in-cabin adjuster to High, run the engine and wait. Maybe turn the steering and pump the brakes just for something to do while waiting?
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x 7

Post by bigblackfalco »

MikeT wrote:Only yesterday did I find (after playing with the ARB clamp) the height corrector would not bring the car down from full height. I tried in vain to force it down, shifting control lever in cabin, moving height corrector directly etc but it would not move.

After a gathering of thoughts and second attempts, I heard the LHM gushing through and she finally lowered.

So my advice is give it more time. I suspect I made the suspension (or the valve) travel a bit too far or forcibly making it sitck for a worrying ten minutes or so.

As yours is on low, set the in-cabin adjuster to High, run the engine and wait. Maybe turn the steering and pump the brakes just for something to do while waiting?
Done all that, even took it for a little trip up the road, pumped the brakes lots.
Just not happening.
Wondering if I put it back together right.
Fairly frustrating that it is actually worse now than it was before hah!!
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