Hi never used this forum before. I got given a burlingo van 1.8D 1998 S reg. The engine had gone in it so I swapped it for same engine from a Xreg van I also used the originall fuel pump (Lucas) as the other one is different (bosch) when trying to start the van I have no glow plug light and a flashing immobiliser light that beeps, although the engine over beautifullyjust no start.
Are the glow plugs connected to the immobiliser and is there an easy way to reset the immobiliser? I no in my old Vauxhall I put the key in the ignition and pressed the unlock button for 10 seconds and it worked although i have no buttons on my citroen key . Help
Are the engine types the same as the 'S' plate would of had an XUD and the 'X' plate probably the DW8 (or HDi!)
Just to confirm you have swapped pumps over (so you retained your original pump or not?) , although the pumps are not always a straight swap between DW8 and XUD anyway...
The 'easy' solution, (ish) is to de-amour the pump to be honest.
*** FOLLOWING TEXTONLY APPLIES TO XUD / DW8 ENGINES ***
I thought about it being from keypad to transponder but keypads stopped at late 97/98 so they were both originally transponder.
I must assume (if you did swap pumps so you kept the original) either the wiring is wrong (you missed something) or the pipework is incorrect.
If you did not swap pumps, then there may be a conflict of ages, less likely though, more likely it needs to go onto a Lexia to re-code the keys (you cannot do this GM style as you did before with these)
De-Amour is a way around it, although you lose the immobilizer doing this.
Is there fuel coming out of the return pipe on the pump after cranking ?
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
I swapped pumps so I kept the original as they were so different and i thought it would keep the immobiliser working.
I used the loom from the original engine as I thought this would help plus the guy who sold me engine had cut allot of the wires, the only plug that was different was the Speedo? (gearbox) plug.
When priming the fuel system I get fuel out of the black metal return pipe but when I turn the engine over I don’t really get anything
That's interesting as its flowing through the pump then.
Undo the injection pipes at the injectors (just one or two will do) , do not remove them just undo them about two turns.
If any fuel leaks out, (it will only dribble) mop it up a bit so its at least semi-dry.
Wrap a bit of rag around the area and make sure no one is leaning into the engine bay.
Crank the engine for about 5 seconds then turn the ignition back off.
Go and examine the pipes for fuel or signs of. Then tighten these pipes back up now.
If nothings coming out: you can either have the immobiliser re-coded (need Lexia or Planet / Diag for this) or have the immobiliser de-amoured.I'd be tempted to get it checked first if possible (theres a list of people with Lexia's in a pinned topic) to ensure its not something else silly that's wrong first.
If there is signs of fuel: you may have a bad air leak. The usual 'test' for this is to replace the last piece of pipe between the filter and pump (the piece leading into the pump) with clear plastic pipe temporarily so you can see if there's any air bubbles.
I'm assuming everything else is in good order (glow plugs are working etc)
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
If there was no imobiliser problem before then it looks like something you have done (or not done) when swapping the engine. First place I would be looking is all the main earths on the engine & gearbox.
After getting it checked at the garage the guy said easiest thing to do was take the armour off and change solenoid so we did this glow plug relay was burnt out so he wired a switch to the dash removing the need for the relay I also got new glow plugs.
after this work the engine sounds like a bag of bob really loud rattling felt like pump timing was out. Mechanic said “as its a different pump to the one that came with the engine pump timing was going to be out”
So I checked the timing holes on the crank, cam and pump they all lined up I rang him up and he said “as it drove home its not to far out if its black smoke its to far forward you need to move the pump one tooth back if its white do the opposite“. as the smoke was grey I moved it one tooth back it was still grey, then I turned the pump back to it original timing hole and moved it forward the smoke still looked the same colour, so moved it forward again same, so moved it forward again little better still noisy did it again didn’t get any better
Am I wasting my time? Is there a better way of doing this? I think it only getting marginally better as it warms up it still smokes rattles and struggles to start no matter were ive moved it. Or shall I move it every tooth on the wheel and pick the one I think is best?
Does your berlingo have an ECU fitted or not as if one is fitted that will stop your van starting as the new engine's ecu will be different from your original.
Kenny
C5 x7 2.0 HDi 160 hp Estate exclusive, the newbie
Xantia 2.0 Hdi 90hp 1999 only 189,000 and rising!!!!!!! Moved on to a new home
C3 1.4 petrol (SWMBO)
Xantia TD 1.9 Mk 2 Estate LX 1998 model over 210,000 miles now and still rising!!!!!!!!!!!!! now deceased 17/12/2010.
Later DW8's (from memory 2003 ish) have electronic pump advance (same as the 1.9XUD's have on Xantia's / 406's) , earlier ones are just amoured stop solenoid and mechanical advance.
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
although i have no buttons on my citroen key 
. Help
. I need it going as I told my dad it would be 2 days and its been 2 weeks he’s pissed 
