rad fans change?

deano1970 · Post by **deano1970** » 05 Sep 2010, 16:41

ok,my local garage says both fans in front of radiatir are knackered. I tried cleaning the contacts on the relays just in front of radiator but im still getting temp light flashing and "stop" light flashing with it when i turn the heaters on,and it appears neither of the fans are coming on.....is it a big job to change these and are they expensive to buy? I spent quite a lot on this car recently and it's trying my patience to be honest.....lol....thanks for any help........

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 05 Sep 2010, 17:12

The STOP light means what it says - keep driving and you'll add a blown head gasket to your woes.

Try a breaker for replacement fans and relays - I've got a scrapper the right age with all the bits still on it, but I'm the other end of the country.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 05 Sep 2010, 19:07

Fan change is a little involved, you NEED to get the Rads - and if a TD With Air Con - ALL 3 rads need to come out to get at the fixing screws for each fan....

Typical french.. OR, if you are rather clever, if you use a quarter inch 10mm socket with two flats groung on them then with a 13mm spanner you can work through the Fan gaps to get at the bolts without rad removal...(Thanks for Citrojim for that very handy tip!!) you could be working a little blind though..

Paul

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 05 Sep 2010, 20:28

Prior to pulling out the fans why not test them in situ by bridging the contacts directly? Also check the voltage/earthing points to ensure than verdigris has not corroded the wiring.

Diabolical · Post by **Diabolical** » 05 Sep 2010, 21:55

Common problem. They have gone!
Replacement is nuckle grazing @ £100 each also expensive.

thruppy · Post by **thruppy** » 05 Sep 2010, 22:17

one went on my 97 td last month got one for a tenner from scrap yard nightmare to fit rad intercooler aircon come out wiring loom back to fuse box all for 3 fan nuts did it with lots of cussing and swearing but it can be done good luck

deano1970 · Post by **deano1970** » 06 Sep 2010, 12:01

well,shame that.don't think im gonna spend anymore money on it. is it ok to use without them working? the engine runs fine and normal temp,I guess summer would be the problem if it gets hot or stuck in a traffic jam....wish i hadn't just had 6 new spheres on the thing now...thanks for the advice.....

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 06 Sep 2010, 12:12

deano1970 wrote:well,shame that.don't think im gonna spend anymore money on it. is it ok to use without them working? the engine runs fine and normal temp,I guess summer would be the problem if it gets hot or stuck in a traffic jam....wish i hadn't just had 6 new spheres on the thing now...thanks for the advice.....

What was the result in trying DickieG's suggestion?

davetherave · Post by **davetherave** » 06 Sep 2010, 12:24

Look in the sor sale section, someone is selling rad fans for £10, not bad!

addo · Post by **addo** » 06 Sep 2010, 12:35

Ive done three from the front - all S2 cars including an Activa. My adapted socket has a hex ground on the outside so you can use a ratchet ring spanner with it.

Don't lose the little star washer in centre, and remember the fan centre screw is LH thread.

Post by **admiral51** » 27 Sep 2010, 20:22

Hi all
Have had some feedback from Dean with his problem with the temp light coming on when he uses the interior fan/blower. along with the fact that his cooling fans are not working.
Bearing in mind the car in question is a Xantia HDi mk2 (1999 i think

) the following is part of our discussions

"yes,the temp light only comes on if the heaters are switched on. It is very much now in the decline with regard to the number of times this happens,not doing it as much as it was. Strange thing is, when it does do it, I tried doing what you suggested,I switch it from de mist to,well,anything else,down to feet or anywhere,as soon as it gets moved from the demist position,the temp light stops,as I suspect you thought it just might. But what does this now mean? does it mean that it is the fan that works the aircon that is faulty? if this is the case,well I can live with that and just open a window if we are lucky enough to warrant such an action,aircon doesn't really bother me. You suggest that with later mkII models the aircon is switched on automatically when set to demist,and this theory seems to pan out as true because when the slider is then moved,the light goes off"

Now ive no experience of HDis but im pretty sure its the blue sensor that controls the temp light but not sure where its located

I reckon that the fault lies with either the fans not working at all or an electrical fault.
Not heard back yet as to what if anything happens when the HP/LP switch is bridged with regards to fans but anyone got any other ideas

Colin

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 28 Sep 2010, 12:30

The blue sensor is on the thermostat housing.
With slider on demist, or with aircon switched on, the fans must go to low speed almost immediately, before the compressor starts turning, and irrespective of the blue sensor’s temperature.
The HP/LP switch doesn’t start the low speed.
If there’s excess pressure in the aircon circuit, the HP switch closes to send the fans to high speed.
Looks like a fan fault, probably not spinning at low speed with the aircon on.

Post by **admiral51** » 29 Sep 2010, 20:43

Thats what i thought Clogzz but if Dean shorts the correct wires on the HP/LP switch the fans should run at slow speed for a second or so before they go full chat.
Hopefully that will eliminate/prove what the fans are actually doing.

Only a guess on my part though

Colin

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 30 Sep 2010, 12:41

Hi Colin,

A second or two of low speed always comes before the fans go to high speed.
That goes by switching on the top right low speed relay first, then the other two together.

No experience with the Mk II, so my guess

is that the ECU senses that the low speed relay coil doesn’t carry current, and goes to temperature alert.
When closing the HP switch, the top right relay must be heard and felt to click.
If it does click shut without starting the fans, then the ECU can sense lack of fan current from a series resistor, which isn’t likely.

The low speed relay has a permanent supply from a 5A fuse, but don’t know where it is on the Mk II, and the ECU will find out if it’s blown.