Xsara Picasso retracting brake caliper piston

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JamesQB
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Xsara Picasso retracting brake caliper piston

Post by JamesQB »

Hi,

**edited bit about piston in last post**

I want to change the rear brake discs on the mother-in-law's Xsara Picasso 1.6HDi since we're using it while the C3 rests in peace for the time being, and this Picasso is grinding pad backing against disc...

Does anyone have a haynes for it and could enlighten me to any relevant torque values and special actions to carry out, etc when changing pads and discs please?

Thanks
Last edited by JamesQB on 05 Sep 2010, 21:50, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by citronut »

i dont have tourque settings to hand, but you must wind the rear calliper pistons back in, and not just lever them, othere wise you will damage the hand brake mechanisum/s inside the callipers,

also i dont know if the picasso suffers with the XANT/C5 syndrom of thick corosion build up between the calliper and rear arms, might best to check whilst your in there

regards malcolm
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Post by JamesQB »

Thanks for the advice, I'll check for any corrosion.

New discs have arrived and I see there are just two screws that hold the disc on before the wheel nuts hold it together properly, so I'll just do them nice and tight.

Does it matter which direction I use when winding the pistons back in? With the Xantia I never bothered with direction, just wound them in.
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Post by JohnD »

I would think the Xsara Picasso is the same as the Xsara hatchback. In which case the pistons turn in clockwise. Personally I don't see any reason to do up the two disc screws up very tight. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and the wheel bolts will do the rest. Caliper bolts go up to 89lbs/ft.
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Post by spider »

The screws are to just hold the discs to the hub, the wheel bolts actually hold them in place properly.
Andy.

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Post by JamesQB »

I've tried changing the pads and discs on rear wheels of Picasso and have given up for now after finally managing to do one...

I remembered a C3 forum post where it said cars with ABS must have the bleed nipple opened when retracting the caliper piston otherwise the brake fluid has nowhere to go. After opening the bleed nipple on the first caliper and turning with needle-nose pliers, it went back in very slowly (and hard to turn).

Spent hours on the other rear caliper even using length of wood behind sliding caliper to stop it popping off its posts with the forward force I was applying, but it still just turned and turned (much harder to turn than the other) without going back in!

Is there a secret I don't know about?!
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