Some time ago I asked (under a long forgotten username) for advice re converting my 1.9 diesel bx to automatic, some folk were kind enough to offer encouragement. Well, the latest news is the auto box from a 19trs petrol (sadly scrapped) bolts straight in and works just fine. Only observation is that the gearchange points are perhaps a bit high for the diesel, eg 1st to 2nd at over 20mph, but otherwise its ok,the final drive ratio is almost if not exactly the same, and it still does over 40mpg. Makes a nice change in traffic after the juddery clutch it had. Strangely, it seems to be noisier, but perhaps thats just the high revs in the low gears. If anyone has any hot tips re altering the gearshift points I would be very interested. (Already tried fiddling with the kickdown without much success.)
All the best
Huw
bx diesel manual to auto conversion
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Velosolex
I am interested in doing a similar conversion on my ZX diesel.
Could you please tell me how you did it!I can be emailed direct on zx@raj4.com
Many Thanks
Q
I am interested in doing a similar conversion on my ZX diesel.
Could you please tell me how you did it!I can be emailed direct on zx@raj4.com
Many Thanks
Q
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- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
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Hi
It took me a day to get all the bits off the petrol engined donor car, a weekend to strip off the diesel's gearbox and clutch etc and replace the auto box instead. This included changing over the pedal box and gearchange mechanism. I was lucky, all the bolts came undone as did the trackrod ends and suspension balljoints on both cars. Amazing on 16 and 12 year old cars. It would have taken an awful lot longer if the bolts had been seized.
The driveshafts are the same, the torque convertor driveplate fitted the crank, the diesel starter works on the ring gear,the bellhousing fitted the engine, the gear selector bolts into the floor using the existing holes (selector mechanism can be removed on both manual and auto without removing exhaust, just the heat shield) and even the hydraulics at the front of the bell housing fitted once the mounting bracket from the donor car was used. The transmission oil cooler would normally have to be plumbed into the heater hose; my car happened to have a separate oil to air cooler for towing which was a bit easier.
Only bit of bodgery needed was to organise a connection for the kickdown cable (essential otherwise you risk burning out the gearbox clutches etc), using an angled bracket and a cotton reel for a pulley. If you can find a picture of the original factory job on the bx diesel auto it is not too hard to emulate.
Reference books used: haynes manuals old & new.
Worth checking the final drive ratios if you can as not all the auto boxes are the same. Judging by the revcounter readings in top, my 19 TGD had the same overall gearing as the 19TRS. I think that the GTi had a lower final drive on the auto, possibly a box from a 16 would too.There isnt much citroen autobox info available on the web, suggest talking to a friendly transmission specialist who will know a lot more than me.
Hope this helps
Happy to answer any specific queries if I can
huw
desrads@aol.com
It took me a day to get all the bits off the petrol engined donor car, a weekend to strip off the diesel's gearbox and clutch etc and replace the auto box instead. This included changing over the pedal box and gearchange mechanism. I was lucky, all the bolts came undone as did the trackrod ends and suspension balljoints on both cars. Amazing on 16 and 12 year old cars. It would have taken an awful lot longer if the bolts had been seized.
The driveshafts are the same, the torque convertor driveplate fitted the crank, the diesel starter works on the ring gear,the bellhousing fitted the engine, the gear selector bolts into the floor using the existing holes (selector mechanism can be removed on both manual and auto without removing exhaust, just the heat shield) and even the hydraulics at the front of the bell housing fitted once the mounting bracket from the donor car was used. The transmission oil cooler would normally have to be plumbed into the heater hose; my car happened to have a separate oil to air cooler for towing which was a bit easier.
Only bit of bodgery needed was to organise a connection for the kickdown cable (essential otherwise you risk burning out the gearbox clutches etc), using an angled bracket and a cotton reel for a pulley. If you can find a picture of the original factory job on the bx diesel auto it is not too hard to emulate.
Reference books used: haynes manuals old & new.
Worth checking the final drive ratios if you can as not all the auto boxes are the same. Judging by the revcounter readings in top, my 19 TGD had the same overall gearing as the 19TRS. I think that the GTi had a lower final drive on the auto, possibly a box from a 16 would too.There isnt much citroen autobox info available on the web, suggest talking to a friendly transmission specialist who will know a lot more than me.
Hope this helps
Happy to answer any specific queries if I can
huw
desrads@aol.com
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tomsheppard</i>
I'm voting with my feet for that idea - certainly my left one[:D]
Are they commonly available?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Probably not too common now, most petrol autos will be in the scrappers due to fuel consumption etc. Diesel autos like hens teeth even when new! But at least its a bolt on conversion. Only welding needed was to repair the split accelerator pedal mounting which is probably a common fault, as both cars were affected.
Cheers
huw
I'm voting with my feet for that idea - certainly my left one[:D]
Are they commonly available?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Probably not too common now, most petrol autos will be in the scrappers due to fuel consumption etc. Diesel autos like hens teeth even when new! But at least its a bolt on conversion. Only welding needed was to repair the split accelerator pedal mounting which is probably a common fault, as both cars were affected.
Cheers
huw
A link submitted by a BXQ&A member repeated here :
http://www.jie.com/4hp14/4hp14.htm
http://www.jie.com/4hp14/4hp14.htm